# At what point is it cheaper to replace a car rather than keep repairing?



## reg barclay (Nov 3, 2015)

At what point is it cheaper to replace a car rather than keep repairing it?


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## Uber_Yota_916 (May 1, 2017)

I am at 220k miles. Replacing the tires tomorrow for the umpteenth time. As well as getting the suspension redone. I’ve rebuilt the transmission and the car keeps going. 

Personally I rather have a zero value car that has been maintained for this gig.


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## Merc7186 (Jul 8, 2017)

The Beast is at 154K and is in need of a new radiator and by the end of the year, new tires. I have dumped about $1000 into it over the past 6 months already and for me, it is going to be one of two things....either the repairs needed are starting to be more than $300 per month (in which I will just buy a new or used vehicle) or if there is a repair that cost more than $1500 (one months of earnings, give or take)


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## TomTheAnt (Jan 1, 2019)

Depends on quite a lot of things, really. Main thing I guess would be whether you can buy the replacement with cash or will you have a monthly payment?

I much rather have no payment and fix my current one than have a monthly payment and all that. Also, I never buy new cars, so new car warranties don't apply to me and all fixes are on me. Most of which I perform myself. Hence, fixing the old one makes more sense to me.


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## Ignatz (Aug 3, 2019)

reg barclay said:


> At what point is it cheaper to replace a car rather than keep repairing it?


there are many many variables
https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintenance/fix-up-or-trade-up.html
https://www.daveramsey.com/blog/should-i-repair-or-replace-my-car
https://www.compare.com/auto-insurance/guides/should-i-repair-or-replace-car


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## 1.5xorbust (Nov 22, 2017)

If it’s a Toyota or Honda keep repairing it until the wheels fall off. If it’s an American car replace at 25k miles and purchase a Toyota or Honda with 100k miles.


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## The Gift of Fish (Mar 17, 2017)

reg barclay said:


> At what point is it cheaper to replace a car rather than keep repairing it?


When you own a Chrysler or GM product?

A lot depends on the car make. Some cars need one-off repairs; others need constant nursing to keep on the road. I would not have any higher mileage, no warranty car from the above two, or anything German.


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## oldfart (Dec 22, 2017)

I always say that the cheapest car to drive is the one you already own. 

So If a repair costs less than another car. I do the repair. 

I like the idea that I remember someone else posted. Add money to a reserve fund each month for repairs and ultimately the purchase of another car. As long as the fund keeps growing keep doing the repairs, when the fund stops growing or worse yet gets smalller each month it’s time to think about another car


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## losiglow (Dec 4, 2018)

Several factors including whether you buy new or used, and whether or not you can do repairs yourself or not.

I'd say it's worth repairing up until you have a repair that costs about the same or more than the car is worth. It wouldn't make much sense to dump $3K for a transmission replacement into a car only worth $3K - $4K. But if you need new O2 sensors @ $200 or replacement axles @ $500 - those numbers are about equivalent to 1/2 - 2 car payments. Kind of a no brainer IMO.

Buying new obviously has it's advantages (it doesn't have a sorted history and will have a warranty) but depreciation is so steep that the gross amount you make from RS is going to be low compared when considering depreciation on the vehicle. I suppose if you drove it to 200K miles doing RS it might make sense.

The most cost effective is to buy a reliable used vehicle - 3 to 5 years old, then do maintenance and repair work yourself. If it's not feasible to do the work yourself, just make sure you do research on the vehicle beforehand to make sure it doesn't have a history of major problems (notably engine or transmission). Scour Google and talk to friends and family to find a good reputable shop and develop a good relationship with them. Even if the car is reliable, you still need maintenance so a good shop is vital.


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## The Gift of Fish (Mar 17, 2017)

oldfart said:


> I always say that the cheapest car to drive is the one you already own.


In that case you have always said something that is false. Given equal maintenance, it makes no difference to the cost of ownership who owns a car. If you already own an unreliable, expensive to fix, high depreciation gas guzzler then those costs are not suddenly going to be diminished just because you already own it.

If you already own a 2010 BMW 535i then it doesn't magically become the cheapest car to drive. A 2008 Prius would be a cheaper car to drive. Or a Kia. Or a Civic.


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## losiglow (Dec 4, 2018)

The Gift of Fish said:


> When you own a Chrysler or GM product?
> 
> A lot depends on the car make. Some cars need one-off repairs; others need constant nursing to keep on the road. I would not have any higher mileage, no warranty car from the above two, or anything German.


This x100

I've heard the new VW's aren't bad. But they still don't come close to most Honda's or Toyota's.

I'm a Honda guy but if I were to make a suggestion, it would be a Toyota Camry or Corolla.


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## ANT 7 (Oct 14, 2018)

reg barclay said:


> At what point is it cheaper to replace a car rather than keep repairing it ?


Only when your local bylaws say you have to get rid of it. Until then, you maintain it.

Where i drive that means 10 years of age max.

FWIW........my personal black car driver I've used for 8 years just got a brand new Lincoln MKT, He hates it only after one year already. i actually liked his old Town Car a lot better as well. That boat was amazing. I fell asleep stretched out in the back of that thing at 400 AM on the way to the airport so many times. But eventually, it became 10 years old.


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## DriverMark (Jan 22, 2018)

This isn't a car we drive for rideshare. But we have a 2003 Ford Windstar. About 5-6ish years ago we decided to rebuild the transmission at about 125k miles. Car was paid off by then. Think it ran $2,800 to rebuild. And since then drove it across country and back in 2016 and then from VA to UT again in 2017. It's the kids car now for school/work and such and coming up on 200,000 miles.

Since then, we decided if the yearly maintenance is $1,000 or less, then we are coming out ahead compared to a car payment of $200/month. And sure, about once a year we have to replace something. A pump, rods, breaks, tires, whatever. But it's been at or under that $1,000/yr to maintain. Also, less $$$ to auto insure it. Less $$$ to register (or Property Tax depending where you live) yearly.

Like a lot of things though. Seems a roll of the dice and hopefully come up with winning numbers.


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## TomTheAnt (Jan 1, 2019)

The Gift of Fish said:


> When you own a Chrysler or GM product?
> 
> A lot depends on the car make. Some cars need one-off repairs; others need constant nursing to keep on the road. I would not have any higher mileage, no warranty car from the above two, or anything German.


I do agree with you regarding the German part, especially if you have to pay somebody to fix and maintain it. For a DIYer they are not too bad as long as you do your research before getting one.

What I don't agree really is the GM part. I've had GM products for the past 20+ years and none of them have had any fatal issues whatsoever and a lot of them have had well over 200K miles on them. No experience on GM cars, though, mostly just trucks/SUVs/sports cars.

My Silverado has almost 250K miles now and about the most recent 25K of it has been RS. Not a single issue related to RS, nor any other issue other than normal maintenance (brakes, oil changes, front control arms etc.).

Sorry for the OT, OP...


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## doyousensehumor (Apr 13, 2015)

This is a question for those who cant repair it themselves. 

If you are mechanically inclined, you pick a car that is reliable, but parts availability is cheap. 

A car that was worth $2000, but blew a motor is now worth $500. I would rather throw another motor in it than give it away. 

When you guys are paying $1000 for AC repair or $3000 for transmission replacement it is no wonder you rather take out a loan for a $20k car


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## The Gift of Fish (Mar 17, 2017)

doyousensehumor said:


> When you guys are paying $1000 for AC repair or $3000 for transmission replacement it is no wonder you rather take out a loan for a $20k car


Lol, yeah. A shop recently quoted me $550 for a transmission flush. ???


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## doyousensehumor (Apr 13, 2015)

TomTheAnt said:


> What I don't agree really is the GM part. I've had GM products for the past 20+ years and none of them have had any fatal issues whatsoever and a lot of them have had well over 200K miles on them. No experience on GM cars, though, mostly just trucks/SUVs/sports cars.


The small block, and the LS motor is the benchmark for what a motor should be. There is a reason why hotrodders love em. It is easy to work on and parts are cheap. Smaller Gm cars not the same. The Ecotec 4cyl is good but pretty much all of the 6 cylinder cars are not the same reliability. Except for the 3.8 buick motor.


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## losiglow (Dec 4, 2018)

It seems that GM trucks are quite good. It seems the cars have more trouble. Same thing goes for Ford and Dodge. The trucks and large SUV's are HUGE sellers for the US brands. They invest a ton of money into making sure they're the most heavy duty, reliable, powerful machines they can. But I'm sorry, most of their cars are pretty crappy. Possible exception to their sports cars like the Mustang, Camaro and Challenger but I don't think I'd even sport one of those. 

I personally wouldn't hesitate to drive something like a GMC Yukon or Chevy Surburban for RS if it was my career doing Black/Lux XL etc. They are pretty good vehicles. I can safely say that if I were to purchase a truck, I'd consider a US brand over something like Toyota simply due to price.


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## Christinebitg (Jun 29, 2018)

reg barclay said:


> At what point is it cheaper to replace a car rather than keep repairing it?


I used to work in industrial facilities, like refineries and chemical plants. They would typically use the amount of 1/2 the replacement cost value.

My personal approach is a little different. What I do is put aside money for car replacement each month, based on the odometer reading. When I buy the car, I usually decide then how long I think it'll last, and how much I think replacement will cost. Right now, I'm setting aside 50c per mile for every mile I drive (not just Uber miles).

Out of that accumulated money, I pay maintenance costs, whether it's doing the oil change myself, or something more serious that I can't do. When that monthly accumulated amount stops going up, then I know it's costing me more to repair it. That's my trigger to start thinking about replacing the car. It's not the decided factor for when I do that, but it's an easy way for me to flag that maintenance is starting to get expensive.


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## oldfart (Dec 22, 2017)

The Gift of Fish said:


> In that case you have always said something that is false. Given equal maintenance, it makes no difference to the cost of ownership who owns a car. If you already own an unreliable, expensive to fix, high depreciation gas guzzler then those costs are not suddenly going to be diminished just because you already own it.
> 
> If you already own a 2010 BMW 535i then it doesn't magically become the cheapest car to drive. A 2008 Prius would be a cheaper car to drive. Or a Kia. Or a Civic.


My point is that it's cheaper to repair and maintain what you own than it is to buy another car and maintain it

Of course if you go from a newer BMW to an old Prius you can save money, but who would do that. My expectation is that most folks want to trade up or laterally


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## Coachman (Sep 22, 2015)

My last car was worth about $1,900 at 170K miles and I got a repair estimate for $4,000. That was it for me.


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## UberBeemer (Oct 23, 2015)

reg barclay said:


> At what point is it cheaper to replace a car rather than keep repairing it?


If repair is more than resale value wouldbe one way to look at it. But, if you are using it as a tool and you can recover the cost of repairs by driving, then consider how long that will take and how it will affect your budget for rent, food, gas, etc.


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## OmahaVW (Mar 17, 2019)

Find a good mobile mechanic or things like brakes and shocks and struts. Ask other Uber drivers at the airport, especially the old farts, they may have a recommendation.


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## The Gift of Fish (Mar 17, 2017)

oldfart said:


> My point is that it's cheaper to repair and maintain what you own than it is to buy another car and maintain it
> 
> Of course if you go from a newer BMW to an old Prius you can save money,


Your posts are unique in that you are able to write two contradictory and mutually exclusive assertions in as many sentences.

You remind me of ex-member @Maven.


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

reg barclay said:


> At what point is it cheaper to replace a car rather than keep repairing it?


When the warranty expires


ANT 7 said:


> Only when your local bylaws say you have to get rid of it. Until then, you maintain it.
> 
> Where i drive that means 10 years of age max.
> 
> FWIW........my personal black car driver I've used for 8 years just got a brand new Lincoln MKT, He hates it only after one year already. i actually liked his old Town Car a lot better as well. That boat was amazing. I fell asleep stretched out in the back of that thing at 400 AM on the way to the airport so many times. But eventually, it became 10 years old.


8 years max for me.
Started Uber with a brand new car with 100,000 mile warranty.
Now at 125,000 miles and almost paid off.

Next one will be a used Hertz Rental car.
With aprx 20,000 miles.
1-2 year models old.
For $10,000.00 discount on new price.
Preferably a Hybrid or 100,000 mile warranty car.

All i have done for more than 4 years is drive for pay. Uber or pizza.
I can do pizza in a 2005 toyota prius from auction for $1,500.00
Can only uber in 8 year old car here.( or younger than 8 years)


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## oldfart (Dec 22, 2017)

UberBeemer said:


> If repair is more than resale value wouldbe one way to look at it. But, if you are using it as a tool and you can recover the cost of repairs by driving, then consider how long that will take and how it will affect your budget for rent, food, gas, etc.


As you suggest, for us the cars resale value dosent matter. What is important; is as you say, how long will it take to earn back the cost of that repair



The Gift of Fish said:


> Your posts are unique in that you are able to write two contradictory and mutually exclusive assertions in as many sentences.
> 
> You remind me of ex-member @Maven.


I'm laying out two points of view, yours and mine. And yes we disagree.

I would much rather put a new $6000 engine, in my car, than spend $25000 to replace the whole thing


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## islanddriver (Apr 6, 2018)

When the repairs cost more than buying another one


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## reg barclay (Nov 3, 2015)

islanddriver said:


> When the repairs cost more than buying another one


Not sure that's always the case.

Example. Imagine I have an old vehicle worth $1000, that needs $1000 in repairs. (Obviously I can't be certain, but since I know the vehicle) I might be able to make a decent estimate, that after the repairs, my vehicle should be okay for a few months. Buying a replacement vehicle worth $1000, may pose a bigger risk, that within a short time it will need more than $1000 in repairs. There could also be other costs involved in the replacement, like registration, sales tax, etc.


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## OldBay (Apr 1, 2019)

TomTheAnt said:


> I do agree with you regarding the German part, especially if you have to pay somebody to fix and maintain it. For a DIYer they are not too bad as long as you do your research before getting one.
> 
> What I don't agree really is the GM part. I've had GM products for the past 20+ years and none of them have had any fatal issues whatsoever and a lot of them have had well over 200K miles on them. No experience on GM cars, though, mostly just trucks/SUVs/sports cars.
> 
> ...


I agree.

American cars, especially trucks and SUVs have caught up to foreign cars in quality.

Saying that american car are junk stopped being true at least 15 years ago. But old habits dies hard and people who bought a Toyota for reliability like to toot their own horn.


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## ZenUber (Feb 11, 2019)

The answer requires math.


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## islanddriver (Apr 6, 2018)

reg barclay said:


> Not sure that's always the case.
> 
> Example. Imagine I have an old vehicle worth $1000, that needs $1000 in repairs. (Obviously I can't be certain, but since I know the vehicle) I might be able to make a decent estimate, that after the repairs, my vehicle should be okay for a few months. Buying a replacement vehicle worth $1000, may pose a bigger risk, that within a short time it will need more than $1000 in repairs. There could also be other costs involved in the replacement, like registration, sales tax, etc.


That's not what I meant sorry if I wasn't clear. If I buy a new or used car in good shape it will cost at least $200 to 300 a month. In payments. That's $2400 to $3600 a year. If I put less than that in the car I now use for Uber I'm ahead of the game.


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## Kodyhead (May 26, 2015)

Depends on what kind of car and how it feels.

Typically I start looking over 150k with japanese cars

My bigger issue was I was going to look for 2015-2016 suburban but now lyft is requiring 2017 which is a much bigger payment.

Even though lyft sucks I dont trust them as they will probably lower the year to 2003 for luxsuv the day after I buy a 2017 suburban lol


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

I always remembered a joke my dads friend had, he owned a real pos car...and anytime he filled it up with gas he said it doubled in value lol


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## Syn (Jun 30, 2017)

doyousensehumor said:


> The small block, and the LS motor is the benchmark for what a motor should be.


15 mpg is the benchmark for what a motor should be?


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## SuzeCB (Oct 30, 2016)

reg barclay said:


> At what point is it cheaper to replace a car rather than keep repairing it?


In my experience, the instant you start to wonder, do what you NEED to right away, and start shopping.


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## Lovelife (May 16, 2019)

1.5xorbust said:


> If it's a Toyota or Honda keep repairing it until the wheels fall off. If it's an American car replace at 25k miles and purchase a Toyota or Honda with 100k miles.


I totally agree with you. I am all about buying American if they make quality products. But unfortunately that's not the case for cars. If you are buying tools then definitely go American.


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## Syn (Jun 30, 2017)

DriverMark said:


> This isn't a car we drive for rideshare. But we have a 2003 Ford Windstar. About 5-6ish years ago we decided to rebuild the transmission at about 125k miles. Car was paid off by then. Think it ran $2,800 to rebuild. And since then drove it across country and back in 2016 and then from VA to UT again in 2017. It's the kids car now for school/work and such and coming up on 200,000 miles.
> 
> Since then, we decided if the yearly maintenance is $1,000 or less, then we are coming out ahead compared to a car payment of $200/month. And sure, about once a year we have to replace something. A pump, rods, breaks, tires, whatever. But it's been at or under that $1,000/yr to maintain. Also, less $$$ to auto insure it. Less $$$ to register (or Property Tax depending where you live) yearly.
> 
> Like a lot of things though. Seems a roll of the dice and hopefully come up with winning numbers.


Bad taste in cars dude, those Windstars are horrible ... Almost as bad taste in football teams lol


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

I really enjoy no car payment, In fact I think it has provided the most enjoyment in my life now that I think about it lol


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## reg barclay (Nov 3, 2015)

Syn said:


> Bad taste in cars dude, those Windstars are horrible ... Almost as bad taste in football teams lol


Not sure about the car, never driven one. But I'll agree about Man Utd.


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## wearenotthesame (Aug 9, 2019)

chrysler just crossed 230K

150K all uber

averages about 150 a month in repairs once a year 800-1500 of something needed

its an uberxl only vehicle hope it lasts 3 more years

150 a month on repairs better than a 250+ note anything but the engine or frans go Ill probably fix it as pretty much all original parts have been replaced

good thing about credit walked in with 500$ walked out with 10K vehicle, think blue book round 3K now just holding off on note long as i can but next car not going to be over a year old probably will get one never owned once new models get to inventory, another industry uber Lyft ruined guarantee any 2+ year old cars been used commercially and it wont be noted

if its a pos forget insurance youre covered with app on, bank that for your next

tldr
every 1000 you put in better last least 3 months cuz thats a new model note, I put in 1000ish usually lasts a year till the shop says it needs......


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## Syn (Jun 30, 2017)

wearenotthesame said:


> chrysler just crossed 230K
> 
> 150K all uber
> 
> ...


$150/month on repairs, but how much do you lose in income for not driving every time you're doing those repairs?


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## Karen Stein (Nov 5, 2016)

Not an easy question to answer.
One major factor is the overall reliability of the car. Look to Consumers Union for information. Have you suffered from problems chronic to your car?

Next factor is how long your car usually lasts. Again, CU has data on which cars can be expected to last 250K, and which are dogs. Some makes - Ford has been notorious for this - are engineered for everything to wear out at the same time.

Graph the Edmunds value for your car, changing only the mileage. You'll see the value drops in steps. If your car has reached such a cliff, it's time to switch.

Finally, what sort of things are breaking? Are they easy to fix (like an alternator) or nearly impossible (transmission)? 

To give an example: My car can reasonably be expected to last 500K. Barring anything major ( like a cracked head), I'm prepared to repair nearly anything for the first 300K.


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

Karen Stein said:


> Not an easy question to answer.
> One major factor is the overall reliability of the car. Look to Consumers Union for information. Have you suffered from problems chronic to your car?
> 
> Next factor is how long your car usually lasts. Again, CU has data on which cars can be expected to last 250K, and which are dogs. Some makes - Ford has been notorious for this - are engineered for everything to wear out at the same time.
> ...


The easy answer is do you know a master mechanic that works on diesels for a living that can do shade tree work...if not, never do Uber at all lol


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## TomTheAnt (Jan 1, 2019)

Syn said:


> 15 mpg is the benchmark for what a motor should be?


Anybody who thinks or suggests a V8 should be benchmark for fuel efficiency, regardless of the manufacturer, is a bit off the mark. :whistling:


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## Fozzie (Aug 11, 2018)

I plan to replace my work vehicles when their mileage is somewhere between 90k and 100k miles. My thinking is that it's easier to flip them for something newer and with lower mileage BEFORE I start to run into major mechanical problems.


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## Syn (Jun 30, 2017)

TomTheAnt said:


> Anybody who thinks or suggests a V8 should be benchmark for fuel efficiency, regardless of the manufacturer, is a bit off the mark. :whistling:


A V8 shouldn't be a benchmark period for anything


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## TomTheAnt (Jan 1, 2019)

Syn said:


> A V8 shouldn't be a benchmark period for anything


Oh... Never mind, then. :roflmao:


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## SFOspeedracer (Jun 25, 2019)

I think it's only cheaper to replace if you don't take care of your car, drive like a maniac, or your repairs are all over the place, backlogged, and you look to mechanics only. Like @doyousensehumor said, this would really be an issue for those not mechanically inclined.

But, that also being said - It really honestly also depends, like all the other good responses above me, there are so many variables. @Karen Stein said it best, there are certain makes manufactured to fall apart at the same time after a given period of time, at which the *headache *is now not worth it compared to purchasing a brand new vehicle. Again, I'd say the biggest thing in my opinion is how well you take care of it *and *weighing your opportunity cost. Future financial projection - I'll use the @oldfart engine example. your cars engine is in pretty shit shape, busted .. crusted .. and barely running, it will cost $4500-5500 to replace completely .. shave 1000-1500 to rebuild, although for some cars that's not feasible. That $4500-5500 would be a top down payment on a completely new car, you would have a warranty on your most expensive heavy metals of the car, and more equips/advanced safety features. The cost? Your insurance will go up, and you now will have financing to factor in every month. Even if you don't go that route at all and just buy a slightly higher year used car, you still are at risk for the inevitable repairs and surprise repairs. again again again .. knowing your car really makes a hell of a difference.

For those good with their hands, the suspension for the most part gives many warning signs - most that can be fixed DIY relatively inexpensive, for everything else - most DIY's know how long what can go between repairs, you know which components of your car are among high priority to fix and which are not, and most of the mechanical upper handers hold sentimental value to their vehicle, therefore opting to not replace it weighing the costs. The powertrain is the biggest money maker of every single vehicle .. so when it comes down to it, you can still prolong a cars life significantly by rebuilding or replacing it if needed, assuming you know how to take care of everything else .. that route will always be cheaper to me ..


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

SFOspeedracer said:


> I think it's only cheaper to replace if you don't take care of your car, drive like a maniac, or your repairs are all over the place, backlogged, and you look to mechanics only. Like @doyousensehumor said, this would really be an issue for those not mechanically inclined.
> 
> But, that also being said - It really honestly also depends, like all the other good responses above me, there are so many variables. @Karen Stein said it best, there are certain makes manufactured to fall apart at the same time after a given period of time, at which the *headache *is now not worth it compared to purchasing a brand new vehicle. Again, I'd say the biggest thing in my opinion is how well you take care of it *and *weighing your opportunity cost. Future financial projection - I'll use the @oldfart engine example. your cars engine is in pretty shit shape, busted .. crusted .. and barely running, it will cost $4500-5500 to replace completely .. shave 1000-1500 to rebuild, although for some cars that's not feasible. That $4500-5500 would be a top down payment on a completely new car, you would have a warranty on your most expensive heavy metals of the car, and more equips/advanced safety features. The cost? Your insurance will go up, and you now will have financing to factor in every month. Even if you don't go that route at all and just buy a slightly higher year used car, you still are at risk for the inevitable repairs and surprise repairs. again again again .. knowing your car really makes a hell of a difference.
> 
> For those good with their hands, the suspension for the most part gives many warning signs - most that can be fixed DIY relatively inexpensive, for everything else - most DIY's know how long what can go between repairs, you know which components of your car are among high priority to fix and which are not, and most of the mechanical upper handers hold sentimental value to their vehicle, therefore opting to not replace it weighing the costs. The powertrain is the biggest money maker of every single vehicle .. so when it comes down to it, you can still prolong a cars life significantly by rebuilding or replacing it if needed, assuming you know how to take care of everything else .. that route will always be cheaper to me ..


Driving for Uber should cover all basics , but instead it's about finding miracles to cut corners. Facts are you do not 'make' money driving Uber unless you are a mechanic that has a deal from parts shipped from China on a boat and can predict arrival for time needed.


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## wearenotthesame (Aug 9, 2019)

Syn said:


> $150/month on repairs, but how much do you lose in income for not driving every time you're doing those repairs?


zero
i usually book my appointment on Tuesday 7-8ak make my normal $65-130 from 3-7am , drop off enjoy the pretty surriundings its usually done round 1pm one time took to 4 set the df & try to catch one back

tires get rotated or replaced the 3 times a year i shop at sams club the oil gets changed monthly at wally world when I get back from airport theres no line & i need milk/bannanas/nshit

im all about efficiency

when i need to shop or go out i do turn on x for the cancel fee or gas money lol

1st year it was 2 days in the shop, last 3 years just one & everytime its been in the shop i made least 1 $65 an hour after gas run, the 1 time when the firl pump went out called the tow truck, fixed by noon walked 4 miles to pick it up as soon as i turned app on got a $45 run & 20$ rematch but someone did knock my side mirror off on that 45 run that cost 37 after a few months of black duct tape

now if i want a paint job they said that'll take a week so wont be getting a paint job oh well only had 1 dirty ride complaint out of 4000


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## SFOspeedracer (Jun 25, 2019)

Jay Dean said:


> Driving for Uber should cover all basics , but instead it's about finding miracles to cut corners. Facts are you do not 'make' money driving Uber unless you are a mechanic that has a deal from parts shipped from China on a boat and can predict arrival for time needed.


Well I can't speak for everyone, I don't use Uber money to buy parts lol. I gave my opinion based on the title of the thread

If Uber is ones only source of income and you don't repair your car yourself, or at least the "basics", I don't really know what to say, unless you're driving a rental or your vehicle is brand new, money is going in the toilet. Mechanics can be some of the biggest con artists unless you have one you're close with


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## wearenotthesame (Aug 9, 2019)

4000 trips 4 years 150K

tow
alternator
battery
front breaks rotors(twice)
front axl
tires 9 totial so far
3 tire pressure monitors valve stems
memba berry when this was $5 lol $60+ for a valve stem cuz technology
1 winshield
1 side mirror
tune up (twice)
transmission flush filter
radiator flush 6 months later
doh radiator
fuel pump
tow
cv joint
rear breaks
4 alignments
power steering pump
4 engine mounts
transmission mounts
shocks
struts
rear leaf springs
6 wiper blades
electric door motor
2 smart tints had to rip one off or get a ticket

electric start but that was for me
about 48 $20 wally world monthly oil changes leaks about 1qt a month so every 3-4 weeks just change it

4 air filters

literally spent less than $50 washing/vacumming $1 spray every week or few, vacuum every few months maybe 2 car complaints so if 3999+ dont care neither do i, its usually early & dark lol

technically 4 inspections

2 tickets

all came to about 8300+ in costs for repairs in 4000+ trips maybe 8 days at a shop took 2 year long breaks between maintenance

this ride stayed in garage months at a time before uber, relocated & get $65 runs from bed so out of 4000 trips least 3800 are same 80 miles highway round tripers with a $4 dead head but smart tint for the tolls ; )

probably will need tires & brakes again next year but for the most part 1-2 days a month or 3 rides to the airport pays 100% of the vehicles costs doubt many can get that since 35% do 85 rides a week for a rental that they DONT own









so 4000 trips $8300 in repair its a 3K 10+ year old now beater with 230K miles and costs are approx $2 per pax & $2 minimum gas $4 actual costs

$4-4=0
$10-$4=6

i dont work for free or illegal wages per my 13th amendment & article 23 of international human rights so every rider not going 10+ miles is ignored & cancelled & for the disrespect usually do the same for 10-20 mile rides too. airport only or no ride for you.

independent contractor


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

With the colossal amount of evidence that it is impossible to make money at these rates...it is perplexing to me that people still do it, and I have dyscalculia.. and know it’s a scam to the highest degree lol


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## doyousensehumor (Apr 13, 2015)

Syn said:


> 15 mpg is the benchmark for what a motor should be?


You are taking my quote out of context.

I was referring to another poster's comment that he was only familiar with GM V8's not with the smaller engines. I was only adding that those V8's are everything I like in a motor -- for that class of motor/vehicle.  It should be obvious that a V8 is 3X what you need for a RS car. Calling an engine "bad" for 15mpg when its main purpose is towing and hauling, not getting Prius-like fuel efficiency.


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## Fozzie (Aug 11, 2018)

SFOspeedracer said:


> I think it's only cheaper to replace if you don't take care of your car, drive like a maniac, or your repairs are all over the place, backlogged, and you look to mechanics only. Like @doyousensehumor said, this would really be an issue for those not mechanically inclined.
> 
> But, that also being said - It really honestly also depends, like all the other good responses above me, there are so many variables. @Karen Stein said it best, there are certain makes manufactured to fall apart at the same time after a given period of time, at which the *headache *is now not worth it compared to purchasing a brand new vehicle. Again, I'd say the biggest thing in my opinion is how well you take care of it *and *weighing your opportunity cost. Future financial projection - I'll use the @oldfart engine example. your cars engine is in pretty shit shape, busted .. crusted .. and barely running, it will cost $4500-5500 to replace completely .. shave 1000-1500 to rebuild, although for some cars that's not feasible. That $4500-5500 would be a top down payment on a completely new car, you would have a warranty on your most expensive heavy metals of the car, and more equips/advanced safety features. The cost? Your insurance will go up, and you now will have financing to factor in every month. Even if you don't go that route at all and just buy a slightly higher year used car, you still are at risk for the inevitable repairs and surprise repairs. again again again .. knowing your car really makes a hell of a difference.
> 
> For those good with their hands, the suspension for the most part gives many warning signs - most that can be fixed DIY relatively inexpensive, for everything else - most DIY's know how long what can go between repairs, you know which components of your car are among high priority to fix and which are not, and most of the mechanical upper handers hold sentimental value to their vehicle, therefore opting to not replace it weighing the costs. The powertrain is the biggest money maker of every single vehicle .. so when it comes down to it, you can still prolong a cars life significantly by rebuilding or replacing it if needed, assuming you know how to take care of everything else .. that route will always be cheaper to me ..


I purchased my vehicle for $11k. (It had 15k miles on it, but it came with a NEW car warranty and free oil changes.

At 24 months the vehicle will be paid in full. Assuming it's in "good" condition, when it hits 95k miles the KBB trade in value should be approx $7976.00 If I take that and use it as a down on a $11k car like I did before, I'd be financing approx $3,500 for a much lower mileage vehicle. IMO, that's a better option than running the vehicle into the ground, depreciating it significantly, and eating increasing repair bills.



Jay Dean said:


> With the colossal amount of evidence that it is impossible to make money at these rates...it is perplexing to me that people still do it, and I have dyscalculia.. and know it's a scam to the highest degree lol


It's still worthwhile in some markets, and under certain circumstances.


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## SFOspeedracer (Jun 25, 2019)

Fozzie said:


> I purchased my vehicle for $11k. (It had 15k miles on it, but it came with a NEW car warranty and free oil changes.
> 
> At 24 months the vehicle will be paid in full. Assuming it's in "good" condition, when it hits 95k miles the KBB trade in value should be approx $7976.00 If I take that and use it as a down on a $11k car like I did before, I'd be financing approx $3,500 for a much lower mileage vehicle. IMO, that's a better option than running the vehicle into the ground, depreciating it significantly, and eating increasing repair bills.


I get what you mean, but that's why I stated your response is a better option for those who don't repair their own cars. I am just someone who opts to not finance, specifically because I do everything on my car myself


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## wearenotthesame (Aug 9, 2019)

Jay Dean said:


> With the colossal amount of evidence that it is impossible to make money at these rates...it is perplexing to me that people still do it, and I have dyscalculia.. and know it's a scam to the highest degree lol


memba berry 96% do stop doing it and its by design

xl is the sweet spot & if youre an early bird who lives in a wealthy area near lots of hotels most ants have to commute to 30+ miles away from an airport you can make good money

not much demand but 1 a day pays all my bills so 2-3+ is gravy & if i didn't smoke so much would probably be easily attainable

but if maintenance dont get em, depreciation will if not that accident or major repair wilp be a whammy to most, the city I moved from would never consider it because airport would be a $10 ride no thanks

my 10k pos with another 8+K put into it round up call it 30K brought me 200+K back on 2-3 hours actually driving a day while all my queing is in the bed watching squawk box or get up, the ants that start to circle around 6am till 8pm get my cancels & have to idle to stay warm or cold plus they do x in select/xl/black vehicles so they dont last long if i wait hours and its a $4 run im back in bed before the next driver gets my cancel they idled an hour in theor car for it doh, oh well competition in my eyes plus if i didn't cancel they cant meet their quota for diamond doo doo status and their"free" rental

tldr
4% can figure the scam out & its pretty much location location location & vehicle type


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## doyousensehumor (Apr 13, 2015)

TomTheAnt said:


> Anybody who thinks or suggests a V8 should be benchmark for fuel efficiency, regardless of the manufacturer, is a bit off the mark. :whistling:


Taking my quote out of context.

We got sidetracked talking about basic reliability and easy-to-work-on. The comments I made were referring to that. No where was I saying the MPG was appropriate for RS driving. The class of vehicle for those engine's are different.


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## kingcorey321 (May 20, 2018)

only answer for this is .
check edmunds car value see what your car is worth. can you get the same car cheaper then the repair ? if its cheaper to repair then replace then repair it . if your car is rusted out it may not be worth it . if your car requires many repairs that add up more then getting a different vehicle then pass on the repairs .
miles mean nothing cars should last 300k miles easily doing uber and lyft . once my car hits 300 it should still look new ill put in a salvage engine and trasmission at the same time if 1 goes out . it costs the same to replace both in labor then just 
buy big pricey parts from here . they will ship to the shop where your car is at .
http://www.car-part.com/


The Gift of Fish said:


> Lol, yeah. A shop recently quoted me $550 for a transmission flush. ???


funny yes . there is 12 to 16 quarts and it may cost 30 to 40 a quart no need to change it if so not suggested .
so there cost is very high 
does your owners manual suggest a transmission flush ?


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## wearenotthesame (Aug 9, 2019)

SFOspeedracer said:


> I get what you mean, but that's why I stated your response is a better option for those who don't repair their own cars. I am just someone who opts to not finance, specifically because I do everything on my car myself


i like to finance 10-20K cars at the end of the day my costs are $10-20 a day & id much rather have an emergency 10-20K and just pay 300 a month cuz if whatever happens they gotta come get their ride & thats not happening of all hell breaking loose now i have a car & cash

helps with the credit score get the 5 year loan and double payments, can walk out with a 10+K car with $500

lots of things to do with 9500 than let it sit in someone elses account ill eat the few dollars a day interest

bird in the hand & all that jazz at most 2K will get ya a year under new

minivanmafia aint for everyone but i don't get pulled over every few weeks & cant measure that safety in dollars


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## Crosbyandstarsky (Feb 4, 2018)

reg barclay said:


> At what point is it cheaper to replace a car rather than keep repairing it?


2nd break job. I don't keep them much over 100,000 miles



wearenotthesame said:


> i like to finance 10-20K cars at the end of the day my costs are $10-20 a day & id much rather have an emergency 10-20K and just pay 300 a month cuz if whatever happens they gotta come get their ride & thats not happening of all hell breaking loose now i have a car & cash
> 
> helps with the credit score get the 5 year loan and double payments, can walk out with a 10+K car with $500
> 
> ...


I don't believe in financing a car. Buy the first one brand new. Save for it and trade it in with good value on it then you only have to come up with little cash each time. Why pay interest? Do you realize how much that is


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## TomTheAnt (Jan 1, 2019)

doyousensehumor said:


> Taking my quote out of context.
> 
> We got sidetracked talking about basic reliability and easy-to-work-on. The comments I made were referring to that. No where was I saying the MPG was appropriate for RS driving. The class of vehicle for those engine's are different.


Exactly my point and it seems like the one that brought it up got it, too. :biggrin: He just needed to have a comeback.


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## wearenotthesame (Aug 9, 2019)

Crosbyandstarsky said:


> 2nd break job. I don't keep them much over 100,000 miles
> 
> 
> I don't believe in financing a car. Buy the first one brand new. Save for it and trade it in with good value on it then you only have to come up with little cash each time. Why pay interest? Do you realize how much that is


yeah mine was 3$ a day i can flip the 9500 cash & put it to way more work than that & it helps with the credit score or least keeps it active as most my balances stay at zero or get paid off quick

5 year note i usually pay off in 2 by doubling up on payments first few payments usuaally a g+ to knock interest down too

90 a month interest or thousands of dollars for an emergency is an easy one for me

different strokes but ive only owned 3 cars wont count the pre 18 ones, they go till the wheels fall off my first car was fancy, as i grow old & wise id rather not get pulled over every 3 weeks its an additional cost & risk

i mean i can walk on any lot with 500-1000 & drive off in a 10-15K car and only need another 300 60 days later for 1st payment

cant take it with ya pretty sure if i make it to 79 im bout to max the 100K in credit cards out best believe imma die in debt like everyone else

i break things down to how much they cost me a day a presentable car usually costs about 15 a nice one 20 a luxury gonna be 30, so id rather have 5 figures for whatever life can throw atcha cuz i can roll out of bed & earn 20 bucks with little effort, im past my luxury stage & chicks dig my stow & go seating minivan mafia


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## Cableguynoe (Feb 14, 2017)

Nothing beats the feeling of seeing your dead car(now worthless) being repoed, and watching the tow truck haul it away while my new car is sitting in the driveway.


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## Christinebitg (Jun 29, 2018)

Karen Stein said:


> One major factor is the overall reliability of the car. Look to Consumers Union for information.


I used to say that.

But some years ago, Consumers Union decided that all cars are now reliable enough to suit them. Now they rate on different factors. I think they've lost sight of what people would really like to know.

Consequently, I'm sticking with the "buy Toyota or Honda" approach.

Yes, the American companies have made tremendous strides in reliability. They've come a long way. But they haven't won my business back.

And before you worry about jobs and ownership, you might want to know that I'm a Toyota stockholder. I get dividends twice a year, in June and December.


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## Fuzzyelvis (Dec 7, 2014)

reg barclay said:


> At what point is it cheaper to replace a car rather than keep repairing it?


Hardly ever, if it's JUST the repair cost. But if you lose earnings when the car is in the shop that can make a big difference, especially if there's a wait for parts, etc. At some point the earnings and inconvenience factor come into play. Needing a car to commute to a regular job also counts. Of course, that and most jobs ( pizza delivery for instance) can be done in a rental, mitigating those losses somewhat. Rideshare us different because you can't use any car to do it.


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## rkozy (Apr 5, 2019)

reg barclay said:


> At what point is it cheaper to replace a car rather than keep repairing it?


That's always an "ad hoc" situation from my perspective, but I generally regard any vehicle over 150,000 miles as an expendable commodity. Once a car has surpassed that threshold, it is not worth replacing any major component; namely an engine or transmission. Any repair over $1000 in that mileage class is probably going to end up being a regrettable investment...though certain exceptions could be made.

My car just hit 150k in June. I will be slapping on a new set tires to get me through this winter (and possibly the next) but if any major problems crop up before then, I'll probably look at getting rid of it altogether. Any repair under $1000 is a worthwhile expense, since my car is running very smoothly at the moment.


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## cspringer805 (Jan 29, 2019)

If it's a honda,Toyota, or Nissan, run it into the ground ; repairs are cheap, parts are easy to come by, and they run forever. If it's a European car, those are high maintenance and something ALWAYS needs to be done and they get more expensive as time rolls on. American cars,..ditch them after 125,000 miles,they become POS's soon after.


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## charmer37 (Nov 18, 2016)

It depends, I get bored with cars except my daily driver I use for work and deliveries. I like the freedom of not having a monthly car payment so I will keep repairing a car.


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## Amos69 (May 17, 2019)

I go a different route. I buy lightly used AWD SUV XL eligible rigs. 10,000 -15,000 miles on the ODO. These are usually current model year rigs. I drive them for 18 -24 months and then sell them with 100,000 to 130,000 miles on them. All under warrantee miles. I amortize out about 50% of purchase price, or 6-7 thousand per year. Oil changes and a set of Tyers is my outlay on these rigs. Buy at $25,000 - $28,000 sell at $12,000- $15,000 + depending on options etc.

Lots of ways to do this. Since I am always running new (ish) rigs in great shape I get algorithm priority. This is a very real thing that is very much considered by the algorithm. Much more so than your acceptance rate.



Christinebitg said:


> I used to say that.
> 
> But some years ago, Consumers Union decided that all cars are now reliable enough to suit them. Now they rate on different factors. I think they've lost sight of what people would really like to know.
> 
> ...


Koreans have MUCH MUCH  better warranties


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## EphLux (Aug 10, 2018)

Uber_Yota_916 said:


> I am at 220k miles. Replacing the tires tomorrow for the umpteenth time.


I got 100,000 on my last set of tires. I'm in So Cal - where if you can avoid overlapping the rainy season with a very low tread, you can extended service life of your tire.


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## Juggalo9er (Dec 7, 2017)

When the estimated cost of repair exceeds 40% of the cars value via nada


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

reg barclay said:


> Not sure that's always the case.
> 
> Example. Imagine I have an old vehicle worth $1000, that needs $1000 in repairs. (Obviously I can't be certain, but since I know the vehicle) I might be able to make a decent estimate, that after the repairs, my vehicle should be okay for a few months. Buying a replacement vehicle worth $1000, may pose a bigger risk, that within a short time it will need more than $1000 in repairs. There could also be other costs involved in the replacement, like registration, sales tax, etc.


When they arrest my 16 year old car jacker who works on Commission . . . .


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## SFOspeedracer (Jun 25, 2019)

rkozy said:


> That's always an "ad hoc" situation from my perspective, but I generally regard any vehicle over 150,000 miles as an expendable commodity. Once a car has surpassed that threshold, it is not worth replacing any major component; namely an engine or transmission. Any repair over $1000 in that mileage class is probably going to end up being a regrettable investment...though certain exceptions could be made.
> 
> My car just hit 150k in June. I will be slapping on a new set tires to get me through this winter (and possibly the next) but if any major problems crop up before then, I'll probably look at getting rid of it altogether. Any repair under $1000 is a worthwhile expense, since my car is running very smoothly at the moment.


I politely disagree with the expensive commodity of 150,000 mile vehicles, since you and I usually share the same viewpoints. but - it's good you mentioned certain exceptions can be made. I think what it really comes down to is how you drive(not avoiding potholes, idling excessively, sharp and jackrabbit actions), how well/if you maintenence your own vehicle(do you just wait for a breakdown, or do you take the proper steps to maintain and avoid one, ex: changing a hose before your cooling system collapses leading to engine overheat), and what *make* of car you have. There's no myth, there really are certain makes of cars manufactured to have all the expensive parts breakdown at around the same time, in an effort to keep you buying.

If you do not maintenece your vehicle at all, it makes sense to upgrade, and if you're someone who just simply loves having a newer low mileage vehicle, that also makes sense if that is your personal preference - since looking at repair bills, the surcharges and labor is almost always above the actual part cost

I've seen cars at 150,000 that are literally about to fall apart,

and cars at 350,000 that are not even missing a beat, original powertrain assembly

Biased I may be, I currently own a Toyota, and the car before this one was also a Toyota, reputable for their almost everlasting reliability if you take care of them - essentially can last forever

This thread is a good topic of discussion because it is not a One size fits all post, and you are one user who breaks down responses generally well, so I'm interested in your current or past experiences with your vehicle


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## RideshareUSA (Feb 7, 2019)

reg barclay said:


> At what point is it cheaper to replace a car rather than keep repairing it?


Simple, when repairs on average exceed $200 per month.



SFOspeedracer said:


> I politely disagree with the expensive commodity of 150,000 mile vehicles, since you and I usually share the same viewpoints. but - it's good you mentioned certain exceptions can be made. I think what it really comes down to is how you drive(not avoiding potholes, idling excessively, sharp and jackrabbit actions), how well/if you maintenence your own vehicle(do you just wait for a breakdown, or do you take the proper steps to maintain and avoid one, ex: changing a hose before your cooling system collapses leading to engine overheat), and what *make* of car you have. There's no myth, there really are certain makes of cars manufactured to have all the expensive parts breakdown at around the same time, in an effort to keep you buying.
> 
> If you do not maintenece your vehicle at all, it makes sense to upgrade, and if you're someone who just simply loves having a newer low mileage vehicle, that also makes sense if that is your personal preference - since looking at repair bills, the surcharges and labor is almost always above the actual part cost
> 
> ...


Agreed.
Just get a Toyota and the OP's question is one that will not need to be addressed for a long, long time!


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## The Gift of Fish (Mar 17, 2017)

oldfart said:


> I'm laying out two points of view, yours and mine. And yes we disagree.


It's not a matter of opinion - it's false to say that if you own a car then that car is automatically the cheapest one to run, just like it's not a matter of opinion to claim that water is not wet - it's simply incorrect.

If I happen to already a Rolls Royce Silver Spur then by your rationale it is the cheapest car to run because I already own it. That's clearly nonsense.


> I would much rather put a new $6000 engine, in my car, than spend $25000 to replace the whole thing


If economical motoring is the goal then throwing away large amounts of money and justifying it because you could alternatively throw away even larger amounts of money is foolish. I could hit one of my fingers with a hammer, which is much better than hitting three of my fingers with a hammer. Therefore should I should hit one of my fingers with a hammer? -o: No, an alternative is to not hit any fingers at all.

In exactly the same way, spending $25,000 for a new car isn't the only alternative if your car needs a $6,000 engine. If your expensive-to-maintain car requires this then you could simply sell it and buy a cheaper, more reliable vehicle that would be much cheaper to run over time.


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## oldfart (Dec 22, 2017)

The Gift of Fish said:


> It's not a matter of opinion - it's false to say that if you own a car then that car is automatically the cheapest one to run, just like it's not a matter of opinion to claim that water is not wet - it's simply incorrect.
> 
> If I happen to already a Rolls Royce Silver Spur then by your rationale it is the cheapest car to run because I already own it. That's clearly nonsense.
> If economical motoring is the goal then throwing away large amounts of money and justifying it because you could alternatively throw away even larger amounts of money is foolish. I could hit one of my fingers with a hammer, which is much better than hitting three of my fingers with a hammer. Therefore should I should hit one of my fingers with a hammer? -o: No, an alternative is to not hit any fingers at all.
> ...


You are completely missing the point. Of course it's nonsense to say that the cost of maintaining my Rolls Royce is less expensive than maintaining my Prius.

And of course spending $6000 on a new engine is more expensive than buying a $5000 car

But that's not my point

My point is this. Its cheaper to repair and maintain the car I own than is to buy and maintain a similar but newer car

For example I recently had to replace the front struts on my car. Since I was going to be out of service for a day I had them do a fluids replacement too (oil, transmission, cooling , and brakes) At the end of the day I spent about $2000. I've been shopping for another car To duplicate what I have will cost over $20000. The choice was easy. It was cheaper to repair my old car than to replace it

Even if replace the engine for $6000 that's cheaper than replacing a $20000 newer car


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## Dice Man (May 21, 2018)

Totally depends on the car and driving conditions.


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## Christina Green (Jan 27, 2019)

1.5xorbust said:


> If it's a Toyota or Honda keep repairing it until the wheels fall off. If it's an American car replace at 25k miles and purchase a Toyota or Honda with 100k miles.


I'd say add Nissan to that list


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## 1.5xorbust (Nov 22, 2017)

Christina Green said:


> I'd say add Nissan to that list


A distant third.


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## Christina Green (Jan 27, 2019)

OldBay said:


> I agree.
> 
> American cars, especially trucks and SUVs have caught up to foreign cars in quality.
> 
> Saying that american car are junk stopped being true at least 15 years ago. But old habits dies hard and people who bought a Toyota for reliability like to toot their own horn.


Says who?


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## Diamondraider (Mar 13, 2017)

wearenotthesame said:


> chrysler just crossed 230K
> 
> 150K all uber
> 
> ...


My head hurts


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## The Gift of Fish (Mar 17, 2017)

oldfart said:


> My point is this. Its cheaper to repair and maintain the car I own than is to buy and maintain a similar but newer car


No, your point was:


oldfart said:


> I always say that the cheapest car to drive is the one you already own.


Which, as I pointed out above, is incorrect.

You are now adding a condition to this rule, so that your argument now becomes: the car you already own is cheaper than buying a similar, newer one. Which is a totally different statement.



islanddriver said:


> If I buy a new or used car in good shape it will cost at least $200 to 300 a month. In payments. That's $2400 to $3600 a year.


This is why personal finances should be taught at school. A monthly payment on a car loan is _not_ a car cost; it is simply the rate at which a loan is paid back.

By the same token if a person spends $15,000 in cash on a car, it does not mean that their car expense was $15,000. Assuming the person was able to buy sensibly (from a private person, not from a dealer) and paid market value for the vehicle, then all he did was transfer $15,000 from his bank account into the car asset. Given that he paid market value for the car, he could sell the car the next day and convert the equity in the car back into $15,000 cash. The only expense in this case would be state taxes and fees, if any.

Making sub-optimal choices is where expenses rack up. Buying from a dealer and paying the dealer premium over private retail is a large expense. This includes buying a new car and losing thousands as soon as you drive it off the lot, or buying used from a dealer. Buying an unreliable car make (VW /Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Chrysler/Fiat/Land Rover/etc) with no warranty is also a sub-optimal choice that will lead to large expenses. Taking out a high interest loan is another large expense.

The goal in economical motoring is, unsurprisingly, to minimise car expenses which include depreciation, repairs, maintenance, insurance, taxes and fees and, if financed, interest charged on the loan.

Getting bogged down by the red herring of car payment amounts, or focussing on only one or a few of the expense categories while ignoring, say, depreciation, or interest rate, or any of the others is a fallacy.


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## President (Jan 16, 2018)

reg barclay said:


> At what point is it cheaper to replace a car rather than keep repairing it?


When it conks out on the Harbour and you have to push


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## Rae (Feb 27, 2016)

I just did the math on this last month. I looked at last 6mos car repairs & subtracted brakes, tires,oil change & any other repairs that are standard to all cars. I added the rest of the repairs & multiplied x2 for a roughly annual amount. I also looked at repairs that were likely caused by excess wear because a newer car will still get beat up doing uber. 

My car is paid off so I compared the increased ins cost for a newer car - I have a 2010 Mazda 3 with 120k miles.

My car has a lot of flashy upgrades & its been cared for so ppl often think its new. Leather seats, premium sound. 6 speed facinates everyone....

I have a bit of time before it makes sense to get rid of my car. Along with great gas miles, its a fun, nice looking car that has slowly accumulated mechanical probs but they arent enough to justify a car pmt. especially when Im going to beat the crap out of a new(er) car


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## islanddriver (Apr 6, 2018)

The Gift of Fish said:


> No, your point was:
> 
> Which, as I pointed out above, is incorrect.
> 
> ...


Yes I see you should go back to school .


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## rkozy (Apr 5, 2019)

SFOspeedracer said:


> This thread is a good topic of discussion because it is not a One size fits all post, and you are one user who breaks down responses generally well, so I'm interested in your current or past experiences with your vehicle


Thanks for the kind words.

My current vehicle is the first vehicle I've ever used for ride sharing. I bought it last October with 133k already on the odometer. I'm currently up to 156k...averaging about 2,000 miles per month for Uber/Lyft driving.

My goal is to hit 200,000 miles before I begin **CONSIDERING** a replacement vehicle. Obviously, events may overtake that goal (such as a total engine failure) but the car is running solidly as I write this. I firmly believe this car will hit 200k, and may exceed that margin by a substantial degree. As long as I feel it's roadworthy (and U/L allows it to be used) I'll probably keep driving it.

Cars don't last forever, however...and it's always best to be prepared for the worst. I have tens of thousands sitting in the bank, and have never had a car payment in my life. My next vehicle will be paid for in cash, and will come from the $5,000-and-under price point, which is the same general neighborhood my present car came from when I purchased it last year.

Doing ride share depreciates cars rapidly -- even when driving parttime hours -- so I will not invest a large amount of money that will be depleted almost instantly. In my past experience with cars, anything with around 100k on the odometer can still have several years of reliable service remaining if you pay close attention to fluid levels and basic maintenance. That is my plan now...and will be my plan going forward.


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## TXUbering (May 9, 2018)

I normally trade my vehicles in after about 40K-50K. There's something about having the coverage of a full warranty, and a newer car will qualify for Uber Comfort (if it meets legroom requirement) if it's available in your area.


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Fuzzyelvis said:


> Hardly ever, if it's JUST the repair cost. But if you lose earnings when the car is in the shop that can make a big difference, especially if there's a wait for parts, etc. At some point the earnings and inconvenience factor come into play. Needing a car to commute to a regular job also counts. Of course, that and most jobs ( pizza delivery for instance) can be done in a rental, mitigating those losses somewhat. Rideshare us different because you can't use any car to do it.


Ive got several back up vehicles for pizza.
Got a 2004 chevy colorado pick up $3,700.00 @ auction. 28,000 miles on it.
I should be able to get 200,000 miles out of my $3,700.00.

Had picked up a Ford Escape hybrid S.U.V. 30mpg
Was going to be my pizza back up ride. Son liked it.

Im covered for repairs for pizza.
Only own 1 vehicle young enough for Uber in my market. Under 8 years.


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## GreatOrchid (Apr 9, 2019)

uber comfort you can have all of them 

whinny butt hurt need cold ac ha hahahaha 

my ac freezes people nobody demands it i supply it lol


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## The Gift of Fish (Mar 17, 2017)

islanddriver said:


> Yes I see you should go back to school .


How so?


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## Dammit Mazzacane (Dec 31, 2015)

The Gift of Fish said:


> A monthly payment on a car loan is _not_ a car cost; it is simply the rate at which a loan is paid back.
> By the same token if a person spends $15,000 in cash on a car, it does not mean that their car expense was $15,000. Assuming the person was able to buy sensibly (from a private person, not from a dealer) and paid market value for the vehicle, then all he did was transfer $15,000 from his bank account into the car asset. Given that he paid market value for the car, he could sell the car the next day and convert the equity in the car back into $15,000 cash. The only expense in this case would be state taxes and fees, if any.


Yes, but look this way:

Which is better: buying the $15,000 car straight on, or buying the $15,000 car with a 6% interest rate.
Here's what to consider: Do you have other debts? Plug in the cash for those, or to maintain a nest egg.

I'd say to ideally invest it in something that makes interest money on the market above the 6% interest rate for a car loan, but I don't have a solid example to work with that lack risks. Municipal bonds with semiannual coupon returns could come close at 4% . Would love to hear some examples.


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## Diamondraider (Mar 13, 2017)

Dammit Mazzacane said:


> Yes, but look this way:
> 
> Which is better: buying the $15,000 car straight on, or buying the $15,000 car with a 6% interest rate.
> Here's what to consider: Do you have other debts? Plug in the cash for those, or to maintain a nest egg.
> ...


Just spitballing, but if you want to be really safe, buy the bonds.

On a simple interest basis, you now have a 2% car loan.

Then factor that the loan interest(6%) is on a decreasing balance, while the municipal interest earned can be reinvested creating compound growth.

Now you can pay for the vehicle while holding the nest egg in short term instruments.

So, where did I go wrong??


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## Christinebitg (Jun 29, 2018)

Diamondraider said:


> Just spitballing, but if you want to be really safe, buy the bonds.
> 
> On a simple interest basis, you now have a 2% car loan.


So you're saying that you'd loan yourself the money, and pay someone else 2% for the privilege?


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## Diamondraider (Mar 13, 2017)

Christinebitg said:


> So you're saying that you'd loan yourself the money, and pay someone else 2% for the privilege?


I think there are benefits to such a low interest situation.

Same reason Apple and many others issued bond offerings even while sitting on billions in the bank.


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## uberdriverfornow (Jan 10, 2016)

with so many repair vids on youtube now there isn't any excuse for not doing atleast minor repairs


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## Eugene73 (Jun 29, 2017)

reg barclay said:


> At what point is it cheaper to replace a car rather than keep repairing it?


definitely not at any time your are still uber driver


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## ggrezzi (Mar 14, 2019)

1.5xorbust said:


> If it's a Toyota or Honda keep repairing it until the wheels fall off. If it's an American car replace at 25k miles and purchase a Toyota or Honda with 100k miles.


YES SIR - FULLY AGREE WITH YOU!


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## goneubering (Aug 17, 2017)

reg barclay said:


> At what point is it cheaper to replace a car rather than keep repairing it?


There are too many variables to give one complete answer. I usually drive a car until it needs a new engine or transmission but I think I made a mistake with one of my Hondas . I should have kept it instead of selling it when the transmission started slipping.


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## The Gift of Fish (Mar 17, 2017)

kingcorey321 said:


> funny yes . there is 12 to 16 quarts and it may cost 30 to 40 a quart no need to change it if so not suggested .
> so there cost is very high
> does your owners manual suggest a transmission flush ?


No, I drive a Camry, not a Sherman tank. The transmission takes just under 4 quarts of fluid, not 12 to 16 quarts. ? And no, the Toyota transmission fluid costs $10 per quart, not $30-$40.

You're the guy who quoted me $550 for the transmission flush, aren't you?


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## TomTheAnt (Jan 1, 2019)

goneubering said:


> I should have kept it instead of selling it when the transmission started slipping.


Wait, what?!?!?!  The super ultra reliable Honda with a failing transmission??? :biggrin:


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## lyft_rat (Jul 1, 2019)

doyousensehumor said:


> The small block, and the LS motor is the benchmark for what a motor should be. There is a reason why hotrodders love em. It is easy to work on and parts are cheap. Smaller Gm cars not the same. The Ecotec 4cyl is good but pretty much all of the 6 cylinder cars are not the same reliability. Except for the 3.8 buick motor.


Yep, the 3.8 Series III, that be the one!


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## kingcorey321 (May 20, 2018)

The Gift of Fish said:


> No, I drive a Camry, not a Sherman tank. The transmission takes just under 4 quarts of fluid, not 12 to 16 quarts. ? And no, the Toyota transmission fluid costs $10 per quart, not $30-$40.
> 
> You're the guy who quoted me $550 for the transmission flush, aren't you?


to flush entire unit with a machine it takes 12/16 . to pull a plug on the transmission you only change about 3 to 4 its pointless . 
any oil change shop will have this machine its the best way to change fluids . all the fluid in the transmission is replace . a older typical car it should only cost about 80 to 90 bucks


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## TomTheAnt (Jan 1, 2019)

kingcorey321 said:


> all the fluid in the transmission is replace


Sure, but the filter is not. Something people tend to overlook. Pretty vital piece of the transmission and if you have a vehicle that is overdue for fluid change/flush (like probably most vehicles on the road are...), it is also overdue for filter change.


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## The Gift of Fish (Mar 17, 2017)

kingcorey321 said:


> a older typical car it should only cost about 80 to 90 bucks


Yes, it should cost $80-$90. Which takes us back to my original comment:


The Gift of Fish said:


> Lol, yeah. A shop recently quoted me $550 for a transmission flush. ???


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## SFOspeedracer (Jun 25, 2019)

TomTheAnt said:


> Wait, what?!?!?!  The super ultra reliable Honda with a failing transmission??? :biggrin:


No way not the makers of Acura

????


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## Driver Cat (Aug 16, 2019)

reg barclay said:


> At what point is it cheaper to replace a car rather than keep repairing it?


If the yearly costs of routine maintenance and repairs average well under $100 a month I would stick with the older vehicle. Eventually if the vehicle is too old (regardless of mileage or condition) U/L will demand a newer vehicle - in which case I would look for a used cash car that I could get at least 5 years of use with both services.

*Also, financing a new/used vehicle is a loser's game, especially now that more and more lenders are either charging exorbitant interest rates or outright refusing to lend if they know a 'personal vehicle' will be used for business; case in point, a law that's in effect in SC and other states forces you to notify your current lien holder that you will be using the vehicle for TNC - if there is a 'non-business use' stipulation on the personal loan contract they could raise your interest rate, demand a balloon payment, or reposes the car outright.

One work around is to get an 'unsecured personal loan' so one can buy the car cash and hold the tittle right away... but these kind of loans will probably be impossible to get for full-time TNC drivers who aren't structured as a business to generate their own W2's.


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## goneubering (Aug 17, 2017)

TomTheAnt said:


> Wait, what?!?!?!  The super ultra reliable Honda with a failing transmission??? :biggrin:


It had well over 200,000 miles but the engine still ran like a champ and the interior was perfect. I made a mistake on that one.



kingcorey321 said:


> to flush entire unit with a machine it takes 12/16 . to pull a plug on the transmission you only change about 3 to 4 its pointless .
> any oil change shop will have this machine its the best way to change fluids . all the fluid in the transmission is replace . a older typical car it should only cost about 80 to 90 bucks


My Honda dealer says to only do the partial drain instead of a full flush per the manufacturer instructions.


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## oldfart (Dec 22, 2017)

The Gift of Fish said:


> No, your point was:
> 
> Which, as I pointed out above, is incorrect.
> 
> ...


I said this

I always say that the cheapest car to drive is the one you already own.

To make this point


> Its cheaper to repair and maintain the car I own than is to buy and maintain a similar but newer car


I probably should have added t "that has been my experience. Yours may be different"

I never considered someone might trade their Rolls for a Prius

Here's how my thought process works

My car has 192000 miles on it I plan to drive it another year or so to 300000 miles. I have $4000 budgeted for maintenance and repairs 
So my cost ought to be about 4 cents a mile

But I'd really like a new (used) car but I'm not going to spend any more on rideshare than I have to. So the question is do I keep and maintain the old car or scrap it in favor of another?

I want a used Lincoln Navigator $50000 assuming I get 250000 more miles out of it my cost will be 20 cent a mile for the next 4 years (plus maintenance)

If I look for something comparable to what I own but newer with less miles. I'll spend $25000 so my cost assuming I get 250000 more miles out of it. my cost will be 10 cents a mile (plus maintenance)

Even if I buy a $10000 POS and somehow get 250000 more miles out of it my cost will be 4 cents a mile (plus maintenance)

So I continue to argue that keeping my car for rideshare will be cheaper than buying a replacement and I bet it would t be any different for you


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## anteetr (Jan 24, 2017)

reg barclay said:


> At what point is it cheaper to replace a car rather than keep repairing it?


1. When any one repair would be more than to replace it with a comparable car with significantly less mileage. Typically a blown transmission or a major engine component / engine rebuild.

2. When it nickels and dimes you to death. You're spending more than a car payment per month on non maintenance items (tires, brakes, suspension components) to keep it on the road for a minimum of 3 months in a row.

I am an expert in driving junk. I have a Chrysler van with 250k on it that I recently semi retired from Uber duty and a Ford Focus with 170k on it that just became my daily driver (again) and main ubermobile after I took it back after I bought my wife a brand new truck that will never see rideshare pax ass on any of its seats.


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## El Janitor (Feb 22, 2016)

When you can afford to replace it. Honestly look at your personal budget and ask yourself ,"Can I afford to make new car payments with the flow of my current income?" If the answer is NO then you need to keep what you have until you can afford something else. Don't buy a new car and hope that maybe now you'll be able to qualify for a higher level of Uber, so it will pay for itself. 

The lending company hires the repo man to come get your car after x number of missed payments. Hopes and wishes don't stop them from coming. Making your payments does.


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## O-Side Uber (Jul 26, 2017)

Driver Cat said:


> If the yearly costs of routine maintenance and repairs average well under $100 a month I would stick with the older vehicle. Eventually if the vehicle is too old (regardless of mileage or condition) U/L will demand a newer vehicle - in which case I would look for a used cash car that I could get at least 5 years of use with both services.
> 
> *Also, financing a new/used vehicle is a loser's game, especially now that more and more lenders are either charging exorbitant interest rates or outright refusing to lend if they know a 'personal vehicle' will be used for business; case in point, a law that's in effect in SC and other states forces you to notify your current lien holder that you will be using the vehicle for TNC - if there is a 'non-business use' stipulation on the personal loan contract they could raise your interest rate, demand a balloon payment, or reposes the car outright.
> 
> One work around is to get an 'unsecured personal loan' so one can buy the car cash and hold the tittle right away... but these kind of loans will probably be impossible to get for full-time TNC drivers who aren't structured as a business to generate their own W2's.


Get a used car that will last 5 years? You mean a new car? ? . If the average full time driver puts 50k miles per year on a car, will someone please explain how a used car is going to last for an additional 300k miles?

I have a new car that will be toast by the time it's paid off. I don't really care because I will have profited 5 x or more what I paid for the car. I used it for work. I write off all the taxes . 
I service it as required by the maintenance schedule.

The people on here that really crack me up are the ones that truly believe a used car with 100k mikes on it is better for rideshare because it will last longer than a brand new car with 0 miles on it. That's where I just go whaaaaa???? ??‍♂


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## Manecut1 (Jul 12, 2019)

Christinebitg said:


> I used to work in industrial facilities, like refineries and chemical plants. They would typically use the amount of 1/2 the replacement cost value.
> 
> My personal approach is a little different. What I do is put aside money for car replacement each month, based on the odometer reading. When I buy the car, I usually decide then how long I think it'll last, and how much I think replacement will cost. Right now, I'm setting aside 50c per mile for every mile I drive (not just Uber miles).
> 
> Out of that accumulated money, I pay maintenance costs, whether it's doing the oil change myself, or something more serious that I can't do. When that monthly accumulated amount stops going up, then I know it's costing me more to repair it. That's my trigger to start thinking about replacing the car. It's not the decided factor for when I do that, but it's an easy way for me to flag that maintenance is starting to get expensive.


Are you kidding me? In my area of RS I only make .60 a mile driving for RS.


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## soundude (Mar 26, 2018)

When you stop using your car for Uber and Lyft


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## Jamesmiller (May 8, 2017)

SFOspeedracer said:


> I get what you mean, but that's why I stated your response is a better option for those who don't repair their own cars. I am just someone who opts to not finance, specifically because I do everything on my car myself


Exactly, i bought my car for 10k but have spent close to 35k for a v8. Some folks would say its stupid for this industry but my parts are warranty for life along with my replacement engine. Starting this year i have spent zero on repairing my car cause i do most of the work myself. Yes i am passing off my cost onto those businesses but at that time uber was screwing me over so.... Its more cost effective to repair then to replace


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## kevin92009 (Sep 11, 2016)

reg barclay said:


> At what point is it cheaper to replace a car rather than keep repairing it?


 depends on where you live and if your mechanics in your local area rip people off . i'm lucky I still use my mechanics from Mexico for expensive repairs where they can do whole engine rebuilds and transmission rebuilds for $ 300 to $500. in general With the multiple rate cuts these companies have given me I would never buy a new car for them ever and most likely would not even buy a replacement beater . These companies deserve the same car i have now with only Repairs . and as far as lyft is concerned with having a 2017 or newer car for Florida for new drivers or replacement cars I will piss on their Terms of service


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## Uber_Yota_916 (May 1, 2017)

O-Side Uber said:


> Get a used car that will last 5 years? You mean a new car? ? . If the average full time driver puts 50k miles per year on a car, will someone please explain how a used car is going to last for an additional 300k miles?
> 
> I have a new car that will be toast by the time it's paid off. I don't really care because I will have profited 5 x or more what I paid for the car. I used it for work. I write off all the taxes .
> I service it as required by the maintenance schedule.
> ...


I paid $6000 for my corolla with 90k miles on it. When I am done with it it will be over 300k miles. I've rebuilt the transmission for $2800 and other general maintenance. The car rides like it is new and I haven't had the depreciation of a new car for tens of thousands of dollars.

When this vehicle ages out I will have made a lot more that 5 x what I have put into it. Closer to 10 x.

I have a friend who bought a 2019 Prius. He tells me it's the biggest mistake he's made for ride share. In today's market he is spot on.


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## anteetr (Jan 24, 2017)

O-Side Uber said:


> The people on here that really crack me up are the ones that truly believe a used car with 100k mikes on it is better for rideshare because it will last longer than a brand new car with 0 miles on it. That's where I just go whaaaaa???? ??‍♂


Its not that it will last longer because it won't. Its that it will be cheaper. The math is pretty simple.

Beater:
$3000 / 100000 miles = 3 cents per mile.

New Camry
$25000 250000 miles = 10 cents per mile.

Even if you put a new trans and new engine in the beater for $8000 more (you wont) and only get an extra 50k out of it (you would get more if you replced the entire powertrain) it would still only be 7.5 cents per mile.


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## O-Side Uber (Jul 26, 2017)

Uber_Yota_916 said:


> I paid $6000 for my corolla with 90k miles on it. When I am done with it it will be over 300k miles. I've rebuilt the transmission for $2800 and other general maintenance. The car rides like it is new and I haven't had the depreciation of a new car for tens of thousands of dollars.
> 
> When this vehicle ages out I will have made a lot more that 5 x what I have put into it. Closer to 10 x.
> 
> I have a friend who bought a 2019 Prius. He tells me it's the biggest mistake he's made for ride share. In today's market he is spot on.


So you paid closer to 10k not 3k like the original poster . Bad example. And you have no guarantee that you will make it to 300k. You could die tonight!!



anteetr said:


> Its not that it will last longer because it won't. Its that it will be cheaper. The math is pretty simple.
> 
> Beater:
> $3000 / 100000 miles = 3 cents per mile.
> ...


3k beaters last for 100k miles? You're not counting future repairs .


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## kevin92009 (Sep 11, 2016)

El Janitor said:


> When you can afford to replace it. Honestly look at your personal budget and ask yourself ,"Can I afford to make new car payments with the flow of my current income?" If the answer is NO then you need to keep what you have until you can afford something else. Don't buy a new car and hope that maybe now you'll be able to qualify for a higher level of Uber, so it will pay for itself.
> 
> The lending company hires the repo man to come get your car after x number of missed payments. Hopes and wishes don't stop them from coming. Making your payments does.


 there was a time years ago I hoped uber would raise rates but then I Woke up and discovered they will only continue to cut rates


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## anteetr (Jan 24, 2017)

O-Side Uber said:


> 3k beaters last for 100k miles? You're not counting future repairs .


I can buy a 12 year old Toyota Prius with 100k - 150k where i live all day every day for 3 grand and get 100k more miles out of it with minimal drama or repairs. Yeah those repairs will be higher than a new one, but much less than the depreciation you cant avoid if you buy new.

P.S. That Chrysler Van I mentioned earlier still has the original, non rebuilt engine and trans in it. Chrysler isn't exactly known for reliability either.


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