# Save Money!!! Why not do your own Oil-Change?



## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Alright, I put together some Pics for you to enjoy.
My Car is not the easiest Vehicle to work on, and when it comes to a simple Oil Change, I figured I'd give it a try.
I used to be a Mechanic back in the Days (80's) but I always had my Independent Mechanic down the Street do my Oil Changes. He works only on European Cars and I have done Business with him for years.
The Oil Change usually cost me $125.00 complete with him.
The Dealer charges $320.00. That's why we call him (St)ealer.
OK, so I figured, why not do it myself?
If I can do it on this (somewhat) complicated SUV, you can do it on your Toyota Camry or Prius as well for very little money.

Let's begin:
Jack up the Car, secure it with Jack-Stands.

/










You'll need a creeper like this to easily move around under your Car.










Now here comes the annoying Part:
My Car is covered with these huge Plastic Pans all over the place.
YMMV, ok?
You may not even have to get under the Car.
More about this later.
I would only have to remove the front one, but i removed both to inspect the entire Area for any oil leaks.
Like the ******, transfer case, etc.
Ok, moving on.










Here is one of those under-carriage covers.
Moving on.










Remove Engine Cover. (if you have one).
You may not have to this to access the Oil Filter or Oil Filter Housing if your Vehicle has it on the bottom.

Next Step:










Here is my Oil Pan with the Drain plug.
You may notice the "Cover" around the Oil-pan like a dampening blanket.
They do this on Diesels to get the Sound down, quietening things.
I had to actually take a Razor-blade to open the access to the Drain plug some more, since there was very little room for a Wrench.

OK.









This Container will catch all the Oil. Cheap at Amazon.com or other places.
Minimizes the Mess.
To be continued, since the Board won't let me upload any more images.


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Ok,
Here is where I un-screw the Oil filter.
In my Case, it is conveniently located right on top of the Engine, inside a Housing.
Your Filter may not even be inside a housing.
It may hang underneath you Engine (like so many chevys) or is mounted right pointing forward towards the Radiator.
(Many VW's)










I use a cheap Oil Filter wrench, also available at Amazon.
You may also just use an old Belt, or a pair of pliers.










I put some Rags around the area, to capture any Oil that may seep out.










The important part is also to replace any O-Rings inside the Housing.
These usually come with your Filter Kit. Do make sure you replace them and pre-oil them before putting them into their place.









New Filter installed, O-Rings in place, going back into the Oil Filter housing.










My Diesel uses Mobile 1 0W-40 Mercedes Benz approved Oil, Mercedes is very very specific about what kind of Oil is to be approved.
Again, your Mileage may vary.
One Fun Fact:
I always thought that this Oil is always available at Costco at an unbeatable Price...guess what?

Walmart has it much cheaper.
They shipped it to my House at zero Shipping Charge.


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Fill it back up with fresh Oil, (after you secured the Drain plug, of course.










Mine uses 8 Quarts of that good Stuff.

Wipe everything clean, while you're at it.
Check the Dip-stick, but remember your Car is jacked up and it may give you a wrong reading.
Better drop the Car off the Jacks and check again.
I usually drop the Car, start it up so that the Oil goes around and fills the Oil Filter housing, then check it again.
Top it off, if needed.

Engine Cover on, all good to go.










What to do with the old Oil, you may ask?

Well, I live here in the beautiful City of Long Beach, I called the Recycle Department, and they sent me some nice Canisters and a plastic Bag for the Oil Filter for free.
On the next Trash and Recycle pickup, they will pick it up for free, supplying me with new Containers.










OK,
So how much has all of this cost me?

Provided, you have the Tools, this thing cost me:

8 Quarts of Oil: $38.00 ( Top of the line synthetic Oil, YMMV)
Oil Filter: $6.99
Roll of Paper Towels: $2.50

Basically, I have performed an Oil Change on a Mercedes Benz for less than $50.00
I don't care if you have a Escalade, Surburban, BMW X5, Tahoe or whatever.
We all like to save Money, we all like to see how our Cars tick, get some Hands on, why don't you.

I hope you all enjoyed my little tutorial, I spent a good ....what hour on it including cleanup, whatever.
I love my Car, it is my Investment and am planning to keep it for a long Time.
Comment if you like,
Cheers!


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## LAuberX (Jun 3, 2014)

Great write up, pretty much like the oil change on my daughters 335i, Walmart for her german car approved synthetic oil, Amazon for oil filter kit and cap wrench for oil filter housing.

I like Rhino Ramps for d.i.y. oil changes, no jack or jack stands required.

Step one: take the oil filter cap housing loose until you can see the o-ring has cleared the threads, that lets the oil drain out of the filter housing, then drain the oil from below... otherwise you can leave dirty oil in the engine.

Always use a new drain plug (crush) washer and tighten it until it just "crushes" a bit... never re use the old drain plug washer.

Then install the new filter with a new o ring on the filter housing, don't over tighten the plastic cap...

Add the required amount of oil, check for leaks, drive 5,000 miles and repeat.

(ASE certified master technician with smog license, so take my .02 with a grain of salt)


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Yes it is a good Idea to use a new Drain plug or even a new Gasket for it, (Copper or aluminum).
But my Kit didn't come with one.
Matter of fact, the way they change the Oil on my Car usually is performed with a Vacuum, that sucks it all out through the Oil Dipstick.
So that Drain plug has never been off.
I guess I am the first to ever pull that thing out.
And it was tight, I kid you not.
Mercedes does recommend that it will be ok to run it 10K, but hey....every 7500 miles will work for me.

Perhaps next Week I'll do a little write up about changing the Cabin Filters in your Cars, something mostly overlooked.
And the Pax will thank you for it.
Also, very cheaply done.
Stay tuned!


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## LAuberX (Jun 3, 2014)

I have a vacuum tank, I just don't trust it to get all the old dirty oil out... mostly I use it for other fluids.

I'm old school, and don't work on German cars every day... the Mann filter kit came with the filter o ring and drain plug gasket for her BMW.


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

LOL, LAuberX , you edited my Post.
ROFL!
All good, I do not mind.
Talk to you later!

Forgot to post one more thing,
When you are all done, have one of those:










Coat on, out the Door.


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## bsliv (Mar 1, 2016)

You saved between $75 and $270 for about an hours work. If you could net more than that driving in the same hour, you might want someone else to do it.  But by doing it yourself you know you used the type of oil and filter recommended. You'll also be more aware of potential issues like leaks, lose wires/hoses, etc. Using convention oil instead of synthetic would save more (not in a Mercedes or a lot of newer cars). Five quarts is more common than eight quartz too. I'd say that Mercedes is more involved than most cars. Both my current cars have hatches to access the filter from underneath. No need to remove the whole plastic piece. I've got the plastic piece on top of the engine too but there are cut outs for the dipstick and fill tube. No need to remove the whole plastic piece. So, most cars will be easier and cheaper. 

Ramps are easier than jacks and stands. Until you want to rotate your tires.


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

All of my cars


LAuberX said:


> View attachment 156653
> 
> 
> Great write up, pretty much like the oil change on my daughters 335i, Walmart for her german car approved synthetic oil, Amazon for oil filter kit and cap wrench for oil filter housing.
> ...


 I can reach the oil pan plug. From underneath. No jacks. No ramp. I use a catch pan that fits.
Usually loosen filter from up top under the hood.


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## ShinyAndChrome (Aug 18, 2017)

Good write up.


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## pacifico (May 13, 2017)

Snowblind said:


> Ok,
> Here is where I un-screw the Oil filter.
> In my Case, it is conveniently located right on top of the Engine, inside a Housing.
> Your may not even be inside a housing.
> ...


thanks for sharing, also important is you know exactly what you pour in your engine, even if you trust someone down the street does not mean its always fair, you will be fair with yourself doing things in your own car


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Thanks for all the Comments, Folks, appreciate it very much.
As LAuberX and bsliv already mentioned, I will definitely look into those Ramps.
To raise it up with the Floor jack, then securing the Car with those Stands seems not the way to go.
And that Car is heavy, Jeeez. Today I'll have to do it again, because I got two of those Cars.


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

LAuberX , I followed your Advice and (almost) bought those Rhino Ramps.
Then, I started reading the Reviews, and they aren't pretty.
Unless you have a small Car like a Prius or the like, I won't recommend using them:









or:










Maybe I'll go with some of those aluminum built Ramps.
Or, just build my own out of 2x8's.

I think I found what I need:










Craigslist Ad:

I offered him $200, since Walmart has them for $280 or so.
They look more "trusty" than those plastic ramps.


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## pacifico (May 13, 2017)

Snowblind said:


> LAuberX , I followed your Advice and (almost) bought those Rhino Ramps.
> Then, I started reading the Reviews, and they aren't pretty.
> Unless you have a small Car like a Prius or the like, I won't recommend using them:
> 
> ...


oops, chinese made ramps? , I don't trust made in china stands neither, thinking about doing some on wood


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## bsliv (Mar 1, 2016)

Snowblind said:


> LAuberX , I followed your Advice and (almost) bought those Rhino Ramps.
> Then, I started reading the Reviews, and they aren't pretty.
> Unless you have a small Car like a Prius or the like, I won't recommend using them:
> 
> ...


I got some plastic ramps from Hazard Fraught (harbor freight), $38. They work fine on my 2800 lb car. But I don't trust them alone. I wedge jack stands under the car anyway. For the really cheap among us, skip the ramps. Get a floor jack and stands. I can recommend a Hazard Fraught floor jack, the low profile, 3 ton, with rapid pump. It goes on sale for $70. Sears sells the same jack for > $200. Never go under it w/o stands, tho. A lot of cars have pinch welds along the edge. Several companies sell pinch weld adapter plates. Its similar to a hockey puck with a slice down the middle. It prevents the welded area from crumpling under the weight of the car. I use the adapter on the jack, lift both side tires off the ground at once. Lower the car on to the stands. The stands go at the jack points for the anemic scissor jack. With 4 stands, one could get all the wheels off the ground at once. Easy to rotate the tires that way. An electric impact wrench makes it easy to get the lug nuts off too.


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

bsliv , I got a 7T Floor jack, and all the Stands I need.
The Car Weight is 4974 lbs. Just awkward to move the Jack around, placing the Jack stands...
A Car Ramp makes much more sense to me.
ROFL for "Hazard Fraught", I almost fell off my Chair!


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## yojimboguy (Mar 2, 2016)

My dealer charges $82 for oil & filter change, plus $17 for tire rotation. I'll stick a that.


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Good for you, yojimboguy .
My Tire rotation is free, since I got my Tires from a great Tire Shop around the corner.
They want me to bring it in every 5K Miles.
I usually bring them Doughnuts.

Also, they fix any problems with the Tires (Nail, leak, etc.) as long as I own the Tires.
I think it's called Road hazard Insurance.
I bring my Car to the Dealership only for Warranty Stuff. I purchased the extended 3-year/100000 mile warranty and it has already paid for itself.
Last month I had an Oil leak on the Turbo and the Headlights turned somewhat yellow.
They replaced the Headlights and fixed the Turbo.
Estimated Cost for that Repair = $7500+.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

Snowblind said:


> LAuberX , I followed your Advice and (almost) bought those Rhino Ramps.
> Then, I started reading the Reviews, and they aren't pretty.
> Unless you have a small Car like a Prius or the like, I won't recommend using them:


I've used rhino ramps on SUV's forever and have never had a single issue with them. I don't know what the people in those pictures did to destroy those ramps, but they did something wrong. My guess is they didn't run their car up evenly and all the weight was on one side of the ramp. Rhino ramps are a very safe way to elevate a SUV. They're probably the single most used ramp in the auto industry and have been around forever. They're rated for like 12,000 pounds - that's more than enough for a SUV.

Looking at that picture of the collapsed ramp again and look what that moron has those ramps on. He's got them on a gravel driveway. That's pure stupidity. Of course they're not going to be balanced on something like that and will be a lot more prone to fail. Use them on a paved driveway or in your garage and you'll never have anything to worry about. A pair of rhino ramps will last you a decade plus.


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## LAuberX (Jun 3, 2014)

Snowblind said:


> LAuberX , I followed your Advice and (almost) bought those Rhino Ramps.
> Then, I started reading the Reviews, and they aren't pretty.
> Unless you have a small Car like a Prius or the like, I won't recommend using them:
> 
> ...


I use them on a regular basis with my Yukon, it's hard to make a product idiot proof as the pictures show.....



Snowblind said:


> Good for you, yojimboguy .
> My Tire rotation is free, since I got my Tires from a great Tire Shop around the corner.
> They want me to bring it in every 5K Miles.
> I usually bring them Doughnuts.
> ...


The oil leak issues and the sensitive emissions system are what keeps me from a diesel GL or ML... the engine/trans are strong otherwise.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

bsliv said:


> I got some plastic ramps from Hazard Fraught (harbor freight), $38.


I don't know about their ramps, but harbor freight sells some awesome car jacks. I've got 3 of them. A 3 ton regular, 3 ton low profile, and 1.5 ton aluminum when i need to bring it somewhere since it's so light. I'd put those jacks against any other jack in the market. Snap on included. They're an absolute steal at the price they sell them for.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton...vy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-61282.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-Steel-Heavy-Duty-Floor-Jack-with-Rapid-Pump-68048.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/15-Ton-Aluminum-Racing-Floor-Jack-with-Rapid-Pump-60569.html


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

EcoboostMKS , The Jack is not the problem. I got a 7 Ton Jack.
It is just too much work (at 95 degrees) to move it around, then placing the Jacks under it for support.

That is why I just purchased this Ramp:

http://www.discountramps.com/sports_car_ramps/p/ML-1066/

Stay tuned, I still have one more Oil Change to do on my 2008 ML.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

Snowblind said:


> EcoboostMKS , The Jack is not the problem. I got a 7 Ton Jack.
> It is just too much work (at 95 degrees) to move it around, then placing the Jacks under it for support.
> 
> That is why I just purchased this Ramp:
> ...


I'm familiar with Benz's. I just did a B service and spark plugs on an 09 SLK 350 the other day. It's actually pretty much the same exact procedure as your car. And that little SLK takes just as much oil as your ML - 8.5 quarts. It's ridiculous. Germans and their over-engineering.

And i get wanting to use ramps... they're all i use when i do oil changes. You don't have that option when you're doing suspension work, but they definitely work for oil changes as long as you don't have a lowered car.

And if those are the ramps you got, they're a little light for your car. They're just light duty aluminum ramps rated for 3000 pounds. Much less than the 12,000 pound capacity rhino ramps. You'd probably be ok with them since you'r not putting the full weight of the car on them, but I would not feel safe under your ML with those specific ramps.


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## Bob Driver (Sep 14, 2017)

Whats your opinion on the
*New Mobil 1™AnnualProtection*
Provides proven protectionfor 1 full year.*

Seems to good to be true....


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## bsliv (Mar 1, 2016)

Bob Driver said:


> Whats your opinion on the
> *New Mobil 1™AnnualProtection*
> Provides proven protectionfor 1 full year.*
> 
> Seems to good to be true....


Check with your car's manufacturer. Gotta get a filter to match, too. City driving usually requires more frequent changes so adjust downward a bit. It may offer the same protection but its gonna get dirty. I'd rather get the dirty stuff out even if still has protection remaining. But it might make sense for those that can't change it regularly or need to pinch some pennies.

"ExxonMobil will replace any lubricant that is defective. In addition, if there is equipment failure due to the lubricant you purchased, and the engine was serviceable at the time the oil was installed, ExxonMobil will repair any equipment damage directly caused by a defect or malfunction of the lubricant, at no cost to you, provided that the lubricant was selected and *maintained in accordance with specifications of the OEM* or the written instructions (which includes product packaging) of ExxonMobil."

<bold added by me>


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

Bob Driver said:


> Whats your opinion on the
> *New Mobil 1™AnnualProtection*
> Provides proven protectionfor 1 full year.*
> 
> Seems to good to be true....


It's about double the price of their extended life formula, but you're only getting 5k extra miles out of it. The extended life formula is rated for 15k miles and the annual protection is rated for 20k miles. You'll also need a long life filter as well.

Stick with the extended life formula and save your money if you want an extended life oil. That or just buy the regular mobil 1 synthetic and change per your owner's manual.


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Yepp!
Mercedes recommends to change my Oil every 10K-12K.
I do it every 7K. Oil change is cheap.
New Engine is expensive.

Coming up in a few Days:

I'll change my Oil on my 2008 ML with the new Ramps I ordered.
Pictures included.
Stay tuned.


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## UberDez (Mar 28, 2017)

Ya know for you car your can actually buy an Oil Extractor for $70 and never have to lift your car or get under it .

What's funny is I do all my own work except for Oil Changes I found a local indy shop that does my oil changes for $15 I bring the oil and filter they top off my washer fluid, rotate my tires , change the oil and filter . I figure it probably takes me about an hour of time factoring in putting the used oil in my car and driving it to a disposal place (autozone) . I also order my Synthetic Oil on Amazon prime with auto ship which saves me a ton of money , all my oil just arrives and I buy my Filters in packs of 6 so I have them stocked in my garage . It works out great



LAuberX said:


> I use them on a regular basis with my Yukon, it's hard to make a product idiot proof as the pictures show.....
> 
> The oil leak issues and the sensitive emissions system are what keeps me from a diesel GL or ML... the engine/trans are strong otherwise.


The first thing any Diesel owner should do is do a Urea system delete and EGR Delete with a tune. Those European 6 cylinder diesel SUVS can get 35mpg on the highway with those mods . They also make them much more reliable , the "ADBLUE" is such a BS Scam and those systems cause so many issues especially if you live in a cold climate


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## TeleSki (Dec 4, 2014)

I used to do my own oil changes, but I live in an apartment, and can't work on my car. I just get a Groupon, and normally can get a full synthetic change for about $45.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

UberDezNutz said:


> Ya know for you car your can actually buy an Oil Extractor for $70 and never have to lift your car or get under it .


I have one of those mityvac extractors and use them for certain jobs, but it's best to get under your car when doing oil changes. It's the only sure way to spot early leaks. You won't be able to do that from the top of the engine bay. If a pan or rear main seal is leaking, you'll never know without getting under it.

Also a lot of filters are located under the car. Mercedes keeps them high, so you can get them from the top, but a lot of filters needs to be removed from underneath and the car has to be up in the air.


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## sd1303 (Nov 11, 2015)

TeleSki said:


> I used to do my own oil changes, but I live in an apartment, and can't work on my car. I just get a Groupon, and normally can get a full synthetic change for about $45.


Same here. I do my oil changes in an industrial area on a Sunday morning with Rhino Ramps. About $25 each time (synth blend), plus a trip to O'Reilley's to dump the oil. Works OK.


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## UberDez (Mar 28, 2017)

EcoboostMKS said:


> I have one of those mityvac extractors and use them for certain jobs, but it's best to get under your car when doing oil changes. It's the only sure way to spot early leaks. You won't be able to do that from the top of the engine bay. If a pan or rear main seal is leaking, you'll never know without getting under it.
> 
> Also a lot of filters are located under the car. Mercedes keeps them high, so you can get them from the top, but a lot of filters needs to be removed from underneath and the car has to be up in the air.


Yeah anyone who would be in the market for an extractor would know all of these things. Pretty much every European brand has a top mounted filter. I know my Audi and BMW have top mounted filters but my Ford, Subaru and Lincoln are all bottom mount


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

I remember on my old 1968 Chevy II, It had a huge 7 Quart Oil pan, remote Oil filters that I mounted inside the Engine Bay and an extra Oil cooler.
I took this Car to San Francisco, Oregon, the Grand Canyon, Vegas, everywhere.










That Picture was taken 21 years ago. Don't have it anymore.
I owned it for about 14 years, and had some good Times with it.


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## UberDez (Mar 28, 2017)

Snowblind said:


> I remember on my old 1968 Chevy II, I had a huge 7 Quart Oil pan, remote Oil filters that I mounted inside the Engine Bay and an extra Oil cooler.
> I took this Car to San Francisco, Oregon, the Grand Canyon, Vegas, everywhere.
> 
> View attachment 158379


That's a beauty


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Update, Folks.
(If interested, lol)

The Ramps came in, and they look stronger as I anticipated.










Ok, the Welds look a bit rough, but the profiles used (not angle, real tubes and Flat stock)









About 5 Feet long.









Ok, my other Lyft Vehicle needs that Oil change.

Going for it:









...inching my way up the Ramp.










And just to be sure, I still put the Jack Stands underneath, you never know.









After confirming how these Ramps perform, I don't think they are needed the next Time.
Really happy about how they worked out. Plenty of Space underneath the Car to check things out.


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Here we go:










Why did Mercedes make the Oil filter housing different from my Diesel? Come on, now my Oil Filter wrench doesn't fit.
Have to do with the old Belt Trick.









Note to self:
Get another Oil Filter wrench that fits. The Belt trick is getting old, but worked for now.










LOL!
Yes, I spilled some Oil on my Drive way.
But Tidy Cats is amazing.
Simply pour some on the Oil, then step on it, circle around.
Using a Brick and rubbing it in works even better. Cleaned up the Concrete in no time.









My 2008 ML uses different Oil, 8 quarts of this 5W-30. Got it from Costco, ($6.36/Quart) but will buy it from Walmart in the Future. ($4.50/quart)


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Mercedes recommends Mobile one:










Do not forget this:










A little Reminder when you will do this thing again.










Since this was done in the Morning, I'll just have a cup of Coffee now.
I appreciate all the good comments very much, Folks.
I did this to save Money, and of course the Ramps did set me back some $260.00. I'll have to do my own Oil changes for a couple of years now to get my investment back.
All good, I don't mind it.


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## UberDez (Mar 28, 2017)

I like those ramps with the lip at the front. Mine are super old and don't have them I have a mirror type thing I use to see when I'm all the way on lol


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## azndriver87 (Mar 23, 2015)

i bring my own oil the a dealer, they charge only $12 for labor, and they give me a nice little carwash as well as inspection. well worth it.


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## NorCalPhil (Aug 19, 2016)

You can dispose of the used oil at most auto parts stores like O'Reilly. Just bring in your container and they'll pour out the oil and give the container back. Usually have to fill out your name & address. I just transfer the used oil back into the 5 qt jugs I buy it in from Walmart.

The Rhino Ramps are ok, but my car is only 2,000 lbs. Wouldn't trust them on anything much heavier.

I'd kill for an oil filter that was accessible from the top. Every time I change mine I curse the location and swear to get a relocator the next time, then forget.


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

> You can dispose of the used oil at most auto parts stores like O'Reilly


Phil, thanks for the Input, but in my case the City of Long Beach picks up the old Oil.
They even provide the Canisters and a plastic bag for the Filter.
All I have to do is to log onto the Cities website, request a pickup and they will come and get it.
On the Curbside. Way cool.
There are also several Places throughout the City where we can drop off the Oil.


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## NorCalPhil (Aug 19, 2016)

Snowblind said:


> Phil, thanks for the Input, but in my case the City of Long Beach picks up the old Oil.
> They even provide the Canisters and a plastic bag for the Filter.
> All I have to do is to log onto the Cities website, request a pickup and they will come and get it.
> On the Curbside. Way cool.
> There are also several Places throughout the City where we can drop off the Oil.


Our taxes aren't high enough here to afford that sort of free service


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## daveportney (Nov 3, 2015)

UberDezNutz said:


> I like those ramps with the lip at the front. Mine are super old and don't have them I have a mirror type thing I use to see when I'm all the way on lol


I think those pictures of the busted ramps the poster drove over the edge and that's why they busted


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

More People told me that they were working with those Rino Ramps just fine.
(Not SUV Owners,)
But after reading many posts from Amazon and Walmart Members, I decided on the aluminum Ramps.
Those feel rock-solid.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

Snowblind said:


> More People told me that they were working with those Rino Ramps just fine.
> (Not SUV Owners,)
> But after reading many posts from Amazon and Walmart Members, I decided on the aluminum Ramps.
> Those feel rock-solid.


I'm sure those ramps you got are perfectly fine, but I've used rhino ramps on SUV's for as long as i can remember. Never a single issue.

And just to prove a point, check out this video. Just a little bigger than the average SUV.


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Impressive. Reminds me of a German Television Show (1981) called "Wetten Dass".
There are Guys setting a 8 T Truck on 4 Beer glasses.






Jump to 4:40


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

I got a good one for UberDezNutz :
The new Mercedes Models all come with the 'illuminated Star', which is a glowing Star in the Front Grill.
Mercedes sells the entire Grill complete for close to $475.00. Amazon and EBay are selling it for $375.00.
But it won't fit my Model.
Leave it up to the Chinese to come up with a solution. You'll find on Ebay just the round Star insert, ($40.00) complete with illumination.
It takes a bit of cutting, a good Dremel tool and some Epoxy to make it fit:










It looks a lot better at night, but you get the Idea.


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## mikes424 (May 22, 2016)

What has been said is all well and good for those cars that require expensive oil changes.

I have my oil changed regularly using non synthetic. There are several places near me that will do oil and filter for $20-25. Name brand oil and filter. Cheaper than I can do it myself. Usually faster too.


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## UberDez (Mar 28, 2017)

mikes424 said:


> What has been said is all well and good for those cars that require expensive oil changes.
> 
> I have my oil changed regularly using non synthetic. There are several places near me that will do oil and filter for $20-25. Name brand oil and filter. Cheaper than I can do it myself. Usually faster too.


Yeah I see a lot of places doing $20 oil changes I couldn't change my oil in a 1989 Civic for that much .


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

> There are several places near me that will do oil and filter for $20-25


Sorry, but I find that hard to believe.
According to http://cars.costhelper.com/oil-change.html you'll spend at least $30 for an Oilchange, unless you drive a 1977 VW Rabbit.
Come on, I wouldn't even look at the Car for $20.00.


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## UberDez (Mar 28, 2017)

Snowblind said:


> Sorry, but I find that hard to believe.
> According to http://cars.costhelper.com/oil-change.html you'll spend at least $30 for an Oilchange, unless you drive a 1977 VW Rabbit.
> Come on, I wouldn't even look at the Car for $20.00.


I've never stopped at any of these places but there is a place in a sorta poorer area of Denver that I drive by that offers a $19.99 oil change (up to 5 qts)
You can actually buy this really low quality oil for around $10 a Gallon so if you have a car that takes 5 quarts you're in it for $12.50 and then I think a no name filter can be had for under $5 . So $17 .50 to do it yourself, these places buy that oil in bulk so I'm guessing they're paying under $2 a gallon


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## Masta Plann (Jul 29, 2016)

UberDezNutz said:


> Yeah I've heard of these I just don't trust em , when I did some 15k oil changes I just changed out the filter mid way . Takes 3 minutes (top mounted filter)


What car do you drive? Good for you, you have a top mounted filter which makes sense of just changing the filter in between oil changes. New filter will help further clean up the existing oil and probably extend life.. i do have bottom mounted filters unfortunately.


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## UberDez (Mar 28, 2017)

Masta Plann said:


> What car do you drive? Good for you, you have a top mounted filter which makes sense of just changing the filter in between oil changes. New filter will help further clean up the existing oil and probably extend life.. i do have bottom mounted filters unfortunately.


I alternate between the following cars

Ford Explorer Bottom Mount
BMW 335 Top Mount
Audi A4 Avant Top Mount

Before that I mainly drove a Passat TSI and that had a top mount filter , they recommended 15k mile oil changes I just had a hard time doing that so I would at least swap out the filter

I wish they would make the top mount filter standard on all cars, it makes so much sense . With an Oil Extractor you could do an oil change without even getting under the car .

(however I'd recommend doing a real oil change every few changes as oil extractors don't pull everything out )


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Friendly bump for
azndriver87


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## autofill (Apr 1, 2016)

You can save more with the Mobile 1 oil rebate. They have it 2-3 times a year so I stock up on the oil and filter.










Also you can install a drain valve to save time. I installed a Fumoto oil drain valve similar to one pictured below.


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## azndriver87 (Mar 23, 2015)

UberDezNutz said:


> I alternate between the following cars
> 
> Ford Explorer Bottom Mount
> BMW 335 Top Mount
> ...


i hope you're not bringing your bmw and audi to these $19 oil change places. it's better if you put synthetic oil in your car, not some cheap conventional oil

also these $20 oil change they just want to up sale you thing that are not necessary. That's why they get you in for oil change, and tells you a bunch of things needs to be changed.


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## UberDez (Mar 28, 2017)

azndriver87 said:


> i hope you're not bringing your bmw and audi to these $19 oil change places. it's better if you put synthetic oil in your car, not some cheap conventional oil
> 
> also these $20 oil change they just want to up sale you thing that are not necessary. That's why they get you in for oil change, and tells you a bunch of things needs to be changed.


I only put synthetic in my cars I have a place that I sometimes bring my own oil and filter to and they do a quick oil change for me

If I drove a prius, camry or some other basic car I'd probably do those cheap oil changes


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## azndriver87 (Mar 23, 2015)

i usually buy my own oil at walmart, for $24, mobil 1 full synthetic, $5 mobil 1 filter, bring it to a dealership that charges $15 for labor, and i get a vacuum and free car wash out of it. not bad for $15


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## UberDez (Mar 28, 2017)

azndriver87 said:


> i usually buy my own oil at walmart, for $24, mobil 1 full synthetic, $5 mobil 1 filter, bring it to a dealership that charges $15 for labor, and i get a vacuum and free car wash out of it. not bad for $15


Yep that's pretty much what I do to. I usually do my own every other time or when I'm not feeling lazy lol.


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## azndriver87 (Mar 23, 2015)

yup, i bought a mdx for lyft premier as well as uber xl/lyft plus.

first thing i did was I swapped out all the fluids myself, and then bring my car to acura dealer and have them do the oil change, this way they can also help me inspect the car, vaccuum, and free car wash, all for $15


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## UberDez (Mar 28, 2017)

azndriver87 said:


> yup, i bought a mdx for lyft premier as well as uber xl/lyft plus.
> 
> first thing i did was I swapped out all the fluids myself, and then bring my car to acura dealer and have them do the oil change, this way they can also help me inspect the car, vaccuum, and free car wash, all for $15


How do you like your mdx? Any complaints or issues with the smaller 3rd row?


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

azndriver87 said:


> i usually buy my own oil at walmart, for $24, mobil 1 full synthetic, $5 mobil 1 filter, bring it to a dealership that charges $15 for labor, and i get a vacuum and free car wash out of it. not bad for $15


Like I said earlier in this thread:



> Wal-Mart has it much cheaper.
> They shipped it to my House at zero Shipping Charge.


And Amazon.com had the 0w-40 on Sale for $22.99 per 5 Quart container.
Not bad at all.


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## ReyesMX6 (Dec 31, 2016)

azndriver87 said:


> yup, i bought a mdx for lyft premier as well as uber xl/lyft plus.
> 
> first thing i did was I swapped out all the fluids myself, and then bring my car to acura dealer and have them do the oil change, this way they can also help me inspect the car, vaccuum, and free car wash, all for $15


$15 for service at an Acura dealer? LOL, you left the 0 off the end right?


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## azndriver87 (Mar 23, 2015)

ReyesMX6 said:


> $15 for service at an Acura dealer? LOL, you left the 0 off the end right?


It's ONLY oil change (i bring my own oil, so the LABOR), inspection, and carwash


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Hm, when you go to Denny's, you bring your own Eggs?


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## UberDez (Mar 28, 2017)

Snowblind said:


> Hm, when you go to Denny's, you bring your own Eggs?


I bring my own oil when I have someone do my changes as most places don't offer the oil I prefer to use . It's a smart way to go if you can find a place to do your oil change for under $20 which usually includes a car wash , washer fluid and air check (mine will rotate my tires for an extra $10) I can't even wash my car , top off washer fluid and dispose of oil for much less than $20 plus I don't have to load dirty ass oil container into my car and drive it a few miles to dispose of it which is honestly my least favorite part of doing my own changes . I still do my own but i rotate in having it done and bringing my own oil and filter

Also who eats at Dennys anymore when unless they're wasted , high or a prostitute


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Ok, UberDezNutz , agree with you on the Denny's. Haven't been there in 20 or so years. My Independent wanted to do a nice thing once and had it washed next Door at a Car wash after doing some work on it. The Result almost made me cry.
Swirl marks everywhere (Black SUV), scratches, scuffs, etc.
It took me a week to get it all polished out. I told him "Don't you EVER have my Car washed again. People don't care anymore.
There is no friggin' way I'll find a place that would perform an Oil change for $20 here in SoCal.
People pay $2500 Rent for a small apartment, or $8.50 for a Cup of Coffee. A regular Car wash at a good Car wash place (yes, they still exist) is a minimum of $17.50. (SUV Price) .
Do I go to one of those "Happy Hour" places that charge $3.00 for a Honda Civic? Hell No!
That's why I do it all myself:

Car wash, Oil Change, Detail, regular maintenance. Don't do ****** or AC Stuff.
I still get my Tires rotated for free at my favorite Tire place around the Corner. But of course they charged me close to $800 for a set of 4 Tires.
YMMV. Always.


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## azndriver87 (Mar 23, 2015)

Snowblind said:


> Ok, UberDezNutz , agree with you on the Denny's. Haven't been there in 20 or so years. My Independent wanted to do a nice thing once and had it washed next Door at a Car wash after doing some work on it. The Result almost made me cry.
> Swirl marks everywhere (Black SUV), scratches, scuffs, etc.
> It took me a week to get it all polished out. I told him "Don't you EVER have my Car washed again. People don't care anymore.
> There is no friggin' way I'll find a place that would perform an Oil change for $20 here in SoCal.
> ...


your independent shop doesn't have the aluminum washer that you're suppose to replaced. a lot of shop just re-use the original washer, and doesn't know whats the torque specs to tighten the drain plug. Over tightening will damage the drain plug. Also you're suppose to replace that washer every time or else once it's damaged, it may be seized on to the plug.

i get tire rotation for free at costco. I ask them to rotate it every 10,000 miles. There's no point of rotating every 3,000 miles. as long as you rotate them evenly at a consistent mileage intervals.

When you buy your own full syntehtic oil and filter, it's $30 ($25 mobil 1 @ walmart, $5 mobil1 filter on amazon) and bring it in to a dealer for $17 labor, that is a total of $ 47 in parts and labor for a full synthetic oil change. Dealer will charge you $90 for that.


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## ReyesMX6 (Dec 31, 2016)

azndriver87 said:


> It's ONLY oil change (i bring my own oil, so the LABOR), inspection, and carwash
> View attachment 177348


You found a receipt from December of 2016? for a TSX? That isn't an MDX receipt. Do they still charge the same thing 1 year later? Did you get the paint scratches fixed? I still have so many questions. Since you're sharing info I need the link to the $5 Mobil1 M1-110 oil filter because the lowest price I can find it is at Walmart for $9.98. Amazon only shows $11.99 for one or $24.99 for two.


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## azndriver87 (Mar 23, 2015)

ReyesMX6 said:


> You found a receipt from December of 2016? for a TSX? That isn't an MDX receipt. Do they still charge the same thing 1 year later? Did you get the paint scratches fixed? I still have so many questions. Since you're sharing info I need the link to the $5 Mobil1 M1-110 oil filter because the lowest price I can find it is at Walmart for $9.98. Amazon only shows $11.99 for one or $24.99 for two.


yes it's still the same price after a year
i guess they raise the price for m1-110 filter, but you can use k&n filter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0067ECS6W/?tag=ubne0c-20 $5
and you're probably going to ask too:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-5W-20-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5-qt/17018132


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## ReyesMX6 (Dec 31, 2016)

I guess if you have an hour to waste then $17.02 isn't bad, but I don't want to sit at a dealer to wait for an oil change. Maybe you have more Acura dealerships in your area than I do and it's not as busy. There are only 3 within 50 miles of me and 2 are owned by the same company, which I refuse to use. I know for a fact that this particular dealer would not give you an oil change for $17.02. In fact, they wouldn't even allow you to use a Mobil1 filter, it would have to be Acura OEM or they wouldn't do the work. The other dealer is pretty awesome, but they are an hour away and I am not driving an hour to save $20-25 on a oil change. I'd waste that much in gas, and patience. Never asked about them about using my own parts for changing the oil though cause I can do it in less than 30 minutes.

Didn't need the oil price, I know how much oil is at Walmart, and that must be your local price. Here it is $22.88 (plus tax) or close to that for a 5 quart container of 5W-20 full synthetic. Standard, extended performance and high mileage is all the same price at the store. You get a discount if you buy online and pick it up, so it can be cheaper and they usually send a coupon to keep you buying online. I can get both oil and filter at cheaper than the price shown online. Curious, when is the last time you changed oil if you say the price changed on M1-110 filters? It's pretty much the standard oil filter for the 3.5L and 3.7L Acura engine that is in the MDX and all V6 Acura models. M1-110 oil filters are $9.97 at Walmart and that has been the same price for about 4 years now. You can even buy them from PepBoys with a discount that they run on parts every so often and they are about $9.50. I always get multiples when they are on sale.

I would never put a K&N filter on my car, like I said, the Acura oil filter is sufficient if I wanted to save money. If I need to I can get 5 Acura OEM oil filters and 5 crush washers for around $35 though. Why buy a $9 K&N brand that shows no micron filtering specifications if OEM is cheaper? Usually when something claims higher flow rate, the filter element is thin or allows larger sized particles through than you probably would desire. Cheaper is not always better even if it is "brand" name.

I take my used oil to the recycle location that's on my way to/from work, no big deal there. What I do is after I have a 5 quart jug available from an oil change I use it to transport the used oil. Just use a funnel and drain your oil catch pan/container into the 5 quart container. Some may say it's redundant work moving the oil around, but it saves me time, money and keeps things clean. Usually the oil reclamation container is locked and all I end up doing is dropping it off, they handle the rest. Guess this varies by region, but even the parts stores allow me to just drop it off like this and they handle the rest, if the county collection location is closed.

When you all talk about car washes at dealerships you do understand that most, if not all, use a pressure washer, right? They take you car into a stall bay, and a kid getting paid minimum wage takes some chemicals and sprays it on the wheels to get the brake dust off, maybe something for the bugs then they pressure wash the car in like 10 minutes, maybe another 5 minutes to vacuum up all the stuff you can see including any change they can collect from the vacuum later. That's not really a good car wash, but I guess it's convenient like the dealer says. It'll get you by but nothing ever beats a good ol' hand washing. If you wanted a real detail job done you could start at $150 up to $1000.



azndriver87 said:


> your independent shop doesn't have the aluminum washer that you're suppose to replaced. a lot of shop just re-use the original washer, and doesn't know whats the torque specs to tighten the drain plug. Over tightening will damage the drain plug. Also you're suppose to replace that washer every time or else once it's damaged, it may be seized on to the plug.
> 
> i get tire rotation for free at costco. I ask them to rotate it every 10,000 miles. There's no point of rotating every 3,000 miles. as long as you rotate them evenly at a consistent mileage intervals.
> 
> When you buy your own full syntehtic oil and filter, it's $30 ($25 mobil 1 @ walmart, $5 mobil1 filter on amazon) and bring it in to a dealer for $17 labor, that is a total of $ 47 in parts and labor for a full synthetic oil change. Dealer will charge you $90 for that.


Most shops do have the crush washer, they are standard sized and not necessarily vehicle specific. Whether or not they use a new one is on them, but don't think that Acura changes yours every time. Mark it with a paint pen or sharpie and see if it's still there when they finish. I can also tell you that I have watched Acura techs just tighten the drain plug by hand, no torque specific tool used. You should never assume that because the dealer did the work it is perfect. I did my due diligence in using dealer service when my car was under warranty and that's how I know which dealer not to use and who did what as far as the workmanship.

Your whole thought on tire rotation is so misguided because there is a reason to rotate consistently every 5-6000 miles. Your front tires are the turning tires and if you rotate them at intervals that far apart then you may wear the outsides of your tire faster than the center. Since you own an Acura you do understand that the maintenance minder keeps up with all that and bases the need for service on that, right? It's also a FWD vehicle making rotation more important to keep up with since the front wheels do all the work. Do you run through tires quicker than the warranty period a lot? Your logic means that I could run my tires 10,000-15,000 miles before rotating them, in fact I could probably push it to 20,000? LOL. Nope, not unless I plan on replacing those tires more often.

As for your price logic, the dealer you use only charges 70.80 (plus tax and shop supplies) for full synthetic oil change. Every dealer has their own price though. Based on your prices, if you use a Mobil1 filter, you are saving roughly $14.80 an oil change (taxes and shop material cost not included). You could easily save $31.82 if you did it yourself instead. Which proves the OPs point.

https://www.chevychaseacura.com/MaintenanceMenu.html


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## sidemouse (Apr 2, 2017)

Please don't take this the wrong way but I learned some time ago, a torque wrench to tighten that oil pan bolt can be a good investment especially with today's aluminum pans... I learned the hard way, stripped a bolt hole on my Neon, cost me $80 for the pan alone and it took a couple of hours of me underneath the car replacing that dang thing (plus the gasket, I think that may have come with the pan). What a pain to hold that oil pan in place with the gasket while putting the bolts through trying to thread them inline with the holes keeping everything lined up while working up from under LOL I think you get the idea.

The bigger issue as well, is when that bolt strips...
You're done, right then and there, you know you can't drive a car that won't hold oil.
Worse still is it's sitting in your driveway, likely up on the jack...
And where to get that oil pan in short order?
I had to mail-order mine, fortunately I have another vehicle and was able to purchase a special rubber plug to put in the hole but those things are sketchy and may fall out while driving. That or you have the ability to leave the car sit for a few days...

Torque wrench from Harbor Freight, under $20, cheap insurance.
Don't forget to check what the actual foot/lb specifications for that bolt are, they vary from one car to the next but are likely to fall between 8-14 foot/lbs. (again it varies, could be more or less, all depends on your vehicle's manufacturer specifications).


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## ReyesMX6 (Dec 31, 2016)

.


sidemouse said:


> Please don't take this the wrong way but I learned some time ago, a torque wrench to tighten that oil pan bolt can be a good investment especially with today's aluminum pans... I learned the hard way, stripped a bolt hole on my Neon, cost me $80 for the pan alone and it took a couple of hours of me underneath the car replacing that dang thing (plus the gasket, I think that may have come with the pan). What a pain to hold that oil pan in place with the gasket while putting the bolts through trying to thread them inline with the holes keeping everything lined up while working up from under LOL I think you get the idea.
> 
> The bigger issue as well, is when that bolt strips...
> You're done, right then and there, you know you can't drive a car that won't hold oil.
> ...


Good point, not sure why anyone would be offended. A few points or so on this subject, and I'll apologize in advance if this is too long.

If you stripped the threads you likely did something wrong. Could have been due to tightening the drain plug bolt too tight, but could also be due to not replacing the drain plug over time(bolts wear out after repeated use), tightening the plug when the threads were still hot from the draining oil (yes this makes the threads softer and could result in stripping if you torque a hard steel bolt on soft aluminum threads, or even steel threads), or just cross threading the bolt (you couldn't keep turning it by hand so you just cranked down on it with a wrench). It's not uncommon for this to happen, even at dealerships or shops. You should always check for leaks under the car after an oil change, don't just look once when you first start it up. Check every time you move your car out of your drive way if possible. See oil spots that look fresh and you didn't have in your garage/drive way and there may be an issue.

As for repair, there are several ways to repair a stripped oil pan plug hole, Here are a few I know if in the order I consider best to worse option:
1. Replace pan: best option because you will have a completely new part with new threads, should also be under warranty if defective. Problematic if you find out you have to take down the sub-frame to get the oil pan out though, which is how some newer vehicles are made.
2. Time-Cert: a Time-Cert kit can replace the threads damage from stripping. It involves a specific kit that contains all the tools and parts you will need. The process involves removing the old threads and replacing them with an insert of the same size threads. Highly effective with little risk of failure.
3. Heli-coil: this is a process that replaces the threads but with new threads that are in appearance like a spring. It works, but isn't always effective and could fail by falling out during a future oil change resulting in another leak and/or the need to replace the oil pan in the future.
4. Oversized self tapping drain plug: this is a pretty simple process, and I would only do this if your car is on it's last leg and you really don't see any value in it to where you should change the oil pan. Simply put, this is a bolt that is slightly larger than the current oil drain plug and will just thread right into the stripped threads. You have to try to keep it as straight as possible during the installation process to make sure it goes flat against the pan. I did this on a 95 Chevy S-10 I had and didn't have any issues from 150,000 miles until I turned it in under "cash for clunkers" back in the day at which it had 298,000 miles on it.
5. Rubber stop plug: This is only a temporary option, should not be used more than one time to prevent leaks until you can get repairs completed. This seems risky, but they are effective. It involves a round rubber grommet sandwiched between two metal washers and has either a wing nut or a hex nut on the end. It will need to be roughly the same size as the drain plug hole so that when you tighten the nut the rubber grommet is compressed between the washers. When it compresses the grommet it seals the hole and prevents leaks. It's effective, little risk of falling out unless you didn't install it correctly, but again only a one time use and temporary fix.

As for the use of a calibrated torque tool, you are right, it's the best thing to do for vehicle reliability. However, you also should replace the drain plug and/or washer as well. Some vehicles use drain plugs that do not have a washer, rather they have a rubber gasket, possibly built into them. These should be replaced every oil change, but some people push it to every "x" amount of oil changes. The other drain plug is one with a crush washer, which is aluminum. The point of a crush washer is to absorb the torque force used to tighten the bolt, which results in it conforming to shape of the bolt head/plug hole during the process. This reduces the need to change the bolt, but the washer must be changed every oil change since it forms to the parts that are against it. The drain plug bolt should still be periodically inspected and changed though, at less than $5 it's is cheap insurance to consider. With that said you should also understand that torque tools still require care and maintenance. When you buy one it should be calibrated correctly, but with time and use the calibration may not be correct which can still result in a stripped bolt. You can either buy a new one or find a local shop that calibrates them. Most tools are only certified, to be within specification, for 1 year after the first use. After that calibration is typically required and may cost more than the tool did. Dropping a calibrated tool or using it to remove bolts could result in it being out of calibration as well.

If you have any questions regarding the torque specification you should be able to call your dealer. Do not trust an independent shop or your local parts store. They may be able to give you the correct specification, but sometimes it's a generalization based on the bolt size. All bolts have a SAE standard to how much torque should be applied based on grade, threads and other factors. However, sometimes manufacturers specify a torque instead and this is what you should use. I keep a note of my VIN, a parts list of things I regularly replace (oil filter, air filter, washer part number, etc.) so that I know what to get when I need parts. It also lists the oil drain plug torque, wheel lug nut torque and any other critical things I need to know (transfer case plug oil/torque, transmission oil type/drain plug torque..you get the point).

Sorry for the long post, but hopefully someone finds this beneficial.


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## sidemouse (Apr 2, 2017)

ReyesMX6 said:


> If you stripped the threads you likely did something wrong. Could have been due to tightening the drain plug bolt too tight, but could also be due to not replacing the drain plug over time(bolts wear out after repeated use), tightening the plug when the threads were still hot from the draining oil (yes this makes the threads softer and could result in stripping if you torque a hard steel bolt on soft aluminum threads, or even steel threads), or just cross threading the bolt (you couldn't keep turning it by hand so you just cranked down on it with a wrench). It's not uncommon for this to happen, even at dealerships or shops.


Yup, yup, hindsight is always 20/20, what can I say... I won't say it wasn't my fault, it is surprisingly easy to overtighten a steel bolt that's going into aluminum threads for one thing but I bought the car used and the bolt stripped first oil change so it could be whoever did the last oil change may have damaged the threads but again all this is a moot point once that thing is stripped, none of that matters.

The fact is we work on these things and sometimes lose the touch or we somehow apply a little too much force without even thinking about it, reading up on other discussions has quickly revealed that "I can torque it down just right without the use of a silly torque wrench" is the thought process of a mechanic who is waiting for such an accident to happen.

It is what it is, the new oil pan was $80, I had little choice in that matter but it also takes more experience to replace the pan than the oil change itself.
Torque wrench FTW 
And yes they sell them for 3/8"s drive sockets.


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## Spork24 (Feb 5, 2018)

EcoboostMKS said:


> I've used rhino ramps on SUV's forever and have never had a single issue with them. I don't know what the people in those pictures did to destroy those ramps, but they did something wrong. My guess is they didn't run their car up evenly and all the weight was on one side of the ramp. Rhino ramps are a very safe way to elevate a SUV. They're probably the single most used ramp in the auto industry and have been around forever. They're rated for like 12,000 pounds - that's more than enough for a SUV.
> 
> Looking at that picture of the collapsed ramp again and look what that moron has those ramps on. He's got them on a gravel driveway. That's pure stupidity. Of course they're not going to be balanced on something like that and will be a lot more prone to fail. Use them on a paved driveway or in your garage and you'll never have anything to worry about. A pair of rhino ramps will last you a decade plus.


Yeah I can't believe the person used ramps in loose gravel. How dumb can one person be and then take a picture of it likes it the ramps fault. Oh well I got a good laugh out of it.


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Guys,
All of you made some solid points about this Topic. I appreciate it.
To me, I enjoy working on my Cars...gets my Mind off my Day job or driving.
I also work on my House quite a bit. do my own Stucco repair, install my own Solar panels, Drywall, paint, Tiles, I do most of it myself.
Except plumbing....its where I draw the line.
DIY makes you appreciate the things you own a bit more, and you will be proud to have yet another project finished.
And, a few Dollars saved doesn't hurt at all. Again, I appreciate all of your views and comments.


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