# Traction and check engine light question



## reg barclay (Nov 3, 2015)

The light in the picture below came on in my car plus the check engine light started flashing at the same time. The car also seems to be accelerating a bit harder than it was.










I'm not very mechanically minded but from past experience I'm guessing it's some kind of spark plug thing.

Anyway, my question is this. Is a mechanic likely to charge me extra just to diagnose the check engine light. The reason I'm asking is that my cousin is coming to visit at the weekend and can bring over his fathers code reader. So I'm debating whether I should take it to the mechanic tomorrow or first wait for him to bring the machine and find out what the problem is using that.

Any advice is appreciated.


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## Cableguynoe (Feb 14, 2017)

That’s the traction control light.

Are you currently driving on icy roads?

Also Is the check engine light still on?


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## brianboru (Nov 3, 2016)

The O'Reilly Auto Parts store near me lets customers use their code reader for free. Maybe a store near you does the same.


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## reg barclay (Nov 3, 2015)

Cableguynoe said:


> That's the traction control light.
> 
> Are you currently driving on icy roads?


No, haven't been on any icy roads today. On snow and ice it will illuminate but only while the car loses traction. Now it is on constantly with the check engine light flashing.


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## FXService (Oct 8, 2017)

Code reader first. Then Google error codes. It's got nothing to do with spark plugs. I'm guessing you are having a sensor malfunction. Has the traction control light gone off? If not it's probably going to be that. Traction control limits the amount of power delivered to each drive wheel to avoid oversteer, loss of grip on slippery surfaces, etc. If you don't have it engaged (some newer cars don't actually turn it off, just tone it down), then the full power goes to the drive wheels. If you live in area with ice, snow, or steady rain, this can be very dangerous. This would also explain your acceleration.

A sensor malfunction can cause other systems to fail because they believe a necessary component is missing for proper function. Get ready for some big labor though.


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## reg barclay (Nov 3, 2015)

FXService said:


> Code reader first. Then Google error codes. It's got nothing to do with spark plugs. I'm guessing you are having a sensor malfunction. Has the traction control light gone off? If not it's probably going to be that. Traction control limits the amount of power delivered to each drive wheel to avoid oversteer, loss of grip on slippery surfaces, etc. If you don't have it engaged (some newer cars don't actually turn it off, just tone it down), then the full power goes to the drive wheels. If you live in area with ice, snow, or steady rain, this can be very dangerous.


Thanks. The traction light has stayed on with the check engine light flashing.

I suppose I have two questions really:

1.) Should I wait for my cousin to come on Sunday with his code reader before going to a mechanic.

2.) If I do wait should I refrain from doing Uber for those few days until I get it fixed.


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## FXService (Oct 8, 2017)

reg barclay said:


> Thanks. The traction light has stayed on with the check engine light flashing.
> 
> I suppose I have two questions really:
> 
> ...


1.) Yes. In the meantime try and Google your year make model + symptoms. In doing so you should run across a forum board with mechanics, enthusiasts, etc for your make, maybe even model. A lot of those guys are gearheads like myself but will have more hands on experience with your type of car and problem.

2.) Yes. Not worth the risk considering you live in the NE.

Just to help brainstorm, I'm going to ask a few questions.

When depress the accelerator does the throttle response seem inconsistent? IE, you lightly press it and you get A LOT of power or you press it hard and get very little rev/power?

Is the transmission shifting smoothly or does it seem jumpy and erratic? You might not necessarily feel this if you have a newer car with a CVT transmission, but you would notice it in your engine RPMs.

Often times people associate these problems as normal for higher mileage cars.

Also most importantly what kind of car do you have?


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## hailboys (Jan 12, 2018)

You should take to a parts store that will let you scan it for free. You probaly have a bad wheel sensor.


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## FXService (Oct 8, 2017)

hailboys said:


> You should take to a parts store that will let you scan it for free. You probaly have a bad wheel sensor.


I forgot about those things too. I had a Volvo S60 2.5T that developed the same symptoms he has, plus the extra one I was asking about. Turned out to be a failing component of the throttle control.


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## reg barclay (Nov 3, 2015)

FXService said:


> Just to help brainstorm, I'm going to ask a few questions.
> 
> When depress the accelerator does the throttle response seem inconsistent? IE, you lightly press it and you get A LOT of power or you press it hard and get very little rev/power?
> 
> Is the transmission shifting smoothly or does it seem jumpy and erratic? You might not necessarily feel this if you have a newer car with a CVT transmission, but you would notice it in your engine RPMs.


I'd say that it feels like it's giving less power than usual. It is a stick shift, when it first started I noticed it felt like the car was 'struggling' a bit, kind of like if you shift into a higher gear at low speed.


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## FXService (Oct 8, 2017)

reg barclay said:


> I'd say that it feels like it's giving less power than usual. It is a stick shift, when it first started I noticed it felt like the car was 'struggling' a bit, kind of like if you shift into a higher gear at low speed.


Yeah that's sensor and ECU shenanigans. Get a diagnostic.


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## columbuscatlady (Jun 20, 2017)

Autozone and Advance Auto Parts will do Code Reader for free. 

I just had this problem. It was all 4 spark plugs. But before they changed them they did say it might be a sensor if you have problems like bad wheel bearing or tires. That might be why the traction light is coming on. A bad control arm or axle bushings could do it too.


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## upyouruber (Jul 24, 2017)

reg barclay said:


> I'd say that it feels like it's giving less power than usual. It is a stick shift, when it first started I noticed it felt like the car was 'struggling' a bit, kind of like if you shift into a higher gear at low speed.


Fuel pump giving out? Thats' what happened in my car when it felt sluggish.


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## FXService (Oct 8, 2017)

https://www.yourmechanic.com/questi...-and-they-brought-up-a-misfire-by-kimberley-c this should help.


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## reg barclay (Nov 3, 2015)

Thanks for all the replies. I only realized afterwards that the car is still under bumper to bumper factory warranty so I took it to the dealership and didn't have to pay anything. It turns out it was a misfire caused by shorting ignition coil which they replaced.


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