# Oil change, Noob Question...



## Dan The Lyft Man (Dec 25, 2015)

Hey Guys,

Well I am going to start doing my own oil changes and just had a question. What would you get to lift the car up? I just need to lift the car to remove the oil pan bolt, the oil filter is on the top of the engine.

I was first planning to get Rhino ramps with car jack stands as a safety back up. Or should I just buy a hydro jack to lift the car up and just use the jack stands?

Any thoughts....

Thanks


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

This thread is a couple days old, but if you come back to check it and you haven't done anything yet, get the rhino ramps for oil changes. Definitely the best option - you just drive up on them and your car is lifted. I use mine all the time.

Get the jack stands for other work when removing tires is required like brakes, tire rotations, etc. If you have the room for it at your house, get a jack from harbor freight when it's on sale (they're on sale every couple weeks). It's much better than those cheap bottle jacks. I have this one and use it frequently.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...zIjoiNzcuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk
IjoiNzc4OCJ9


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## Dan The Lyft Man (Dec 25, 2015)

EcoboostMKS said:


> It's much better than those cheap bottle jacks. I have this one and use it frequently.


Thanks for the info... I bought the ramps and jack stands also a pair of wheel chocks since my garage has a decline in it. I am all about safety  Thanks again for the help  I will get the hydro jack when I am due for a tire rotation.


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## JoeD16 (Jul 21, 2016)

Ramps! Not sure if your running synthetic oil or not but it's a good idea to do so as you will most likely be racking up some miles in a short period of time.


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## RDUber (Oct 3, 2016)

RedLine oil is my favorite, my Toyota and Lexus love it.


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## dirtylee (Sep 2, 2015)

Mobil 1 extended performance & filters. Worth every penny.


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## Another Uber Driver (May 27, 2015)

Do not crawl under a car that is on a hydraulic jack. I have seen more than one of those fail. The jackstands or Rhino Ramps are fine. Simply make sure that they are on solid footing. If you use the jack stands, in addition to the solid footing, make sure that the pin is in securely. Be sure of the jackstands' rating, as well. Three tons is more than sufficient for most cars. My DeSoto does not weigh even that much. That bottle jack with the jackstands might be allright, but I can not state that I ever have used one that was a combination jack/stands.

The way that they build cars these days and the way in which they shoehorn everything under the hood, it is a wonder that anyone can find the oil pan, the drain plug or the filter. The DeSoto has a canister that you take off and change the element. I can change the oil on that thing, no problem. For years, the speed shops have sold an adapter so that you can use I-forget-which-Chrysler-spin-on-oil-filter, but I never did buy one.

I use any decent brand of synthetic oil. Mobil1 is fine, Red Line has a pretty good reputation, as well, but I never have used it. I like Pennzoil, but I always have, even back before synthetic became popular. Some people rag on Quaker State. They like to call it "re-constituted dinosaur sludge", but never have I had any problem with it. In addition, I will use Wolf's Head synthetic or a synthetic with the brand name of any major oil company.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

Another Uber Driver said:


> The way that they build cars these days and the way in which they shoehorn everything under the hood, it is a wonder that anyone can find the oil pan, the drain plug or the filter. The DeSoto has a canister that you take off and change the element. I can change the oil on that thing, no problem. For years, the speed shops have sold an adapter so that you can use I-forget-which-Chrysler-spin-on-oil-filter, but I never did buy one.


Ever change the oil on a newer mercedes? It's ridiculous. You have to remove panels just to get to the pan under the car. And you need a special mercedes tool just to remove oil filter housing. And then when you remove the housing and filter, you need to change like 3 or 4 o-rings every time you change the filter. And their little 3.5 liter engines take almost 9 qt's of oil. My v8 town cars with 5.4 liter engines only took 6. This is all for one oil change. There's nothing more annoying than working on a mercedes.


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## Heisenburger (Sep 19, 2016)

Dan The Lyft Man said:


> Well I am going to start doing my own oil changes and just had a question.


Welcome to the world of pretty decent cost savings! I was where you are about 6 years ago, got me a basic set of lift stuff, and never looked back.



EcoboostMKS said:


> ...get the rhino ramps for oil changes. Definitely the best option - you just drive up on them and your car is lifted. I use mine all the time.
> 
> Get the jack stands for other work when removing tires is required like brakes, tire rotations, etc. If you have the room for it at your house, get a jack from harbor freight when it's on sale (they're on sale every couple weeks). It's much better than those cheap bottle jacks. I have this one and use it frequently.


I fully agree with all of these suggestions! It's essentially exactly what I've been happily using for several years, minus the floor jack (but I occasionally borrow one from my FIL for certain jobs like tire rotations).



dirtylee said:


> Mobil 1 extended performance & filters. Worth every penny.


I fully agree, at least about the oil -- that's some good stuff and it's not just marketing fluff -- it's the real deal. I've not tried the filters though. In the past, I've used M1EP in two different engines for over 5 years and about 70k miles each. I typically did oil changes roughly annually on each vehicle, which amounted to somewhere between 11k miles and 16k miles. Well, one was sometimes more frequent because it got more regular daily use than the other. In fact, I distinctly recall accidentally-on-purpose pushing the interval out to about 19k miles once on the one that saw higher regular miles. I never had any oil-related engine problem on either vehicle. One got totaled out a couple years back and I still have the other one.



Another Uber Driver said:


> The jackstands or Rhino Ramps are fine...


Great safety reminders! I recommend folks follow them, too.


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## Heisenburger (Sep 19, 2016)

Another Uber Driver said:


> I use any decent brand of synthetic oil. Mobil1 is fine, Red Line has a pretty good reputation, as well, but I never have used it. I like Pennzoil, but I always have, even back before synthetic became popular. Some people rag on Quaker State. They like to call it "re-constituted dinosaur sludge", but never have I had any problem with it. In addition, I will use Wolf's Head synthetic or a synthetic with the brand name of any major oil company.


DTLM and AUD, if you haven't yet: Warning! Don't get on BITOG! Just trust me on that.


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## Amsoil Uber Connect (Jan 14, 2015)

My dealer keeps trying to get me to use Pennzoil. I looked at him square in the eye and said, "So your asking me to put a lesser quality oil in this car to get me to come back more often right? and with the engine repair you just bought me, ( new set of lifters and a Cam shaft ). Right buddy." As I patted him on the shoulder. 

I can't say anything more since I'm not a paid sponser. U will just have to goto the website and read for your self. Meep Meep...


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

Amsoil Uber Connect said:


> My dealer keeps trying to get me to use Pennzoil. I looked at him square in the eye and said, "So your asking me to put a lesser quality oil in this car to get me to come back more often right? and with the engine repair you just bought me, ( new set of lifters and a Cam shaft ). Right buddy." As I patted him on the shoulder.
> 
> I can't say anything more since I'm not a paid sponser. U will just have to goto the website and read for your self. Meep Meep...


Amsoil is top quality stuff. I wouldn't hesitate to use anything they sell with full confidence. Love their gear oils.


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## Jimmy Bernat (Apr 12, 2016)

If you go to a pep boys or autozone they'll sell a starter kit with a basic jack, jack stands and a creep (thing you lay on with wheels) for around $50
That's what I started with and it worked great I still have it 10 years plus. I went with a higher end jack and bought a couple more jack stands for when I need all four wheels off the ground I'll put Jack stands on all 4 corners of the car (tire rotations)

You can also get yourself a basic auto tool set for around $40 and get a filter strap. It will work on even the oil filter housings that say they require a special tool ( most of them)

For oil it depends on the car every car I own that's turbocharged I use Rotella t6 (using it in my 450hp bmw, 400hp sti, 300zx TT with great results)


If all you ever plan on doing is oil changes the ramps are food just make sure your car isn't too low for them. Even normal cars can struggle with some ramps 
Remember to rotate your tires every oil change most tire shops will do it for free in hopes to get your business later if not it's usually under $10


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## UberBastid (Oct 1, 2016)

A good friend of my family died under a car that slipped offa hydrolic jack. 
It was a closed coffin -- not a pretty sight I understand. 

~ UberBastid ~


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## Dan The Lyft Man (Dec 25, 2015)

UberBastid said:


> A good friend of my family died under a car that slipped offa hydrolic jack.
> It was a closed coffin -- not a pretty sight I understand.


I use the ramps and jacks as a back up in case the ramps fail.


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## Dan The Lyft Man (Dec 25, 2015)

Heisenburger said:


> Welcome to the world of pretty decent cost savings! I was where you are about 6 years ago, got me a basic set of lift stuff, and never looked back.


I really enjoyed doing it myself, I made a small mess, just a couple of drops of oil in my garage. and got both my hands covered in oil. (I was wearing gloves)  Other than that, only took me about an hour. Now that I know what I am doing should go quicker next time.


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## mikes424 (May 22, 2016)

Before you start, I suggest you do a cost analysis. Here in the Chicago area we can get an oil change with basic name brand mineral oil (non synthetic) for $20-25. Probably about the same in your area.

DIY. 4 qts x $4 = 16. You may need 5-6 qts, you didn't mention how many you need.
Oil filter about $5. So your cost is $21 minimum.
Take into account your time and inconvenience to dispose of the used oil.


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## UberBastid (Oct 1, 2016)

I went to my mechanics once ... he met me in the parking lot and we walked together to his office. On the way I noticed a two year old Toyota Pickup on the rack. It looked like they were pulling the ****** out. I was surprised that major work was being done on a newish Toyota, so I asked, "Whats up with that pickup?" 
Mechanic smiled and said, "Owner decided to change his own oil. Forgot to tighten the oil drain plug. Siezed up on the freeway. New engine." 
"Dayam" says I. "Well, at least he saved the $25 for the oil change."

If the oil change place had not tightened that plug - THEY'D be buying him a new engine. 

Sometimes its worth it to pay someone else to take the risk


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## Amsoil Uber Connect (Jan 14, 2015)

mikesmidget said:


> Before you start, I suggest you do a cost analysis. Here in the Chicago area we can get an oil change with basic name brand mineral oil (non synthetic) for $20-25. Probably about the same in your area.
> 
> DIY. 4 qts x $4 = 16. You may need 5-6 qts, you didn't mention how many you need.
> Oil filter about $5. So your cost is $21 minimum.
> Take into account your time and inconvenience to dispose of the used oil.


And that's the Beauti of the 25,000 oil change. 11 a qt, 16 the filter, 5-8 times less changes. Ok you can do the math.
We would all like to change it less, can't match the store bought in filtration performance and I am doing my part with less waste oil going back into the enviorment.


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## Dan The Lyft Man (Dec 25, 2015)

mikesmidget said:


> Before you start, I suggest you do a cost analysis





Amsoil Uber Connect said:


> Ok you can do the math.


When I go to Valvoline it cost $94 for my Subaru 2012 Impreza. It's because my car takes 0w-20. If I just add the cost of oil and filter cost come out to be $36-$40. Also my auto parts store takes back my old oil for free. So after my third oil change I will be back in the back after buying my supplies (ramps,stands, etc...)

The weekly add was for 5-quarts + 1 oil filter (*not the oil filter I wanted but ok*) for $31.99. But I will always buy this oil.


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Dan The Lyft Man said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> Well I am going to start doing my own oil changes and just had a question. What would you get to lift the car up? I just need to lift the car to remove the oil pan bolt, the oil filter is on the top of the engine.
> 
> ...


Buy the drive on ramps. Use secondary jacks,or even 2 cinder blocks for safety. Only use ramps or jacks on concrete. Ramps or jacks sinking into ground can kill you just as well as a car falling. I can usually reach under a car with a wrench without jacking it up for an oil change. I knew someone killed underneath their car. Coroner's report said asphyxia. Hard to inhale with 2,000 pounds on your chest.
Also ,catalytic convertors can cause your skin to turn to white ash on contact. It does not feel good. Takes months to heal.


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Dan The Lyft Man said:


> When I go to Valvoline it cost $94 for my Subaru 2012 Impreza. It's because my car takes 0w-20. If I just add the cost of oil and filter cost come out to be $36-$40. Also my auto parts store takes back my old oil for free. So after my third oil change I will be back in the back after buying my supplies (ramps,stands, etc...)
> 
> The weekly add was for 5-quarts + 1 oil filter (*not the oil filter I wanted but ok*) for $31.99. But I will always buy this oil.
> 
> View attachment 68834


5 qt. Jug Mobil synthetic. 0-20w is $25.00 at Wal Mart.


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

UberBastid said:


> A good friend of my family died under a car that slipped offa hydrolic jack.
> It was a closed coffin -- not a pretty sight I understand.
> 
> ~ UberBastid ~


I guess we all have that distant relative. Crushed by a car. Then the one set afire from filling hot lawnmower with gas 
. . .


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Amsoil Uber Connect said:


> My dealer keeps trying to get me to use Pennzoil. I looked at him square in the eye and said, "So your asking me to put a lesser quality oil in this car to get me to come back more often right? and with the engine repair you just bought me, ( new set of lifters and a Cam shaft ). Right buddy." As I patted him on the shoulder.
> 
> I can't say anything more since I'm not a paid sponser. U will just have to goto the website and read for your self. Meep Meep...


Quaker state bought penzoil over 16 years ago. Haven't used them since.
Neither have the special services mechanics at Halliburton where I used to work.


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## Fuzzyelvis (Dec 7, 2014)

mikesmidget said:


> Before you start, I suggest you do a cost analysis. Here in the Chicago area we can get an oil change with basic name brand mineral oil (non synthetic) for $20-25. Probably about the same in your area.
> 
> DIY. 4 qts x $4 = 16. You may need 5-6 qts, you didn't mention how many you need.
> Oil filter about $5. So your cost is $21 minimum.
> Take into account your time and inconvenience to dispose of the used oil.


My dealer (kia) sends me coupons for all the maintenance. The oil changes with the coupon are $25 or $29. Plus they check the brakes, fluids, battery, forget what else, fill up the window washer fluid, and wash the car. It's just not worth doing it myself.

Years ago I owned a 1969 Cadillac. I knew nothing about cars but I could do all the maintenance (tuneups, brakes) and many repairs (like replacing the water pump, alternator, master cylinder) by myself--well needed help to bleed the brakes. All you needed was a Chiltons for the most part.

Nowadays it's much more difficult to get to anything, especially with front wheel drive in a small car (my Cadillac had a 500 from a 1970 in it--that's 8.2 liters for you young folk--but there was still tons of room to get to things). Also, everything is computerized. I wouldn't even consider trying to work on my car now. Plus my time is worth more than it was when I was making minimum wage.

I don't miss rebuilding carburetors though. I spent a day with the pieces all in order on my floor, hoping I'd get it back together ok. Lol.


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Fuzzyelvis said:


> My dealer (kia) sends me coupons for all the maintenance. The oil changes with the coupon are $25 or $29. Plus they check the brakes, fluids, battery, forget what else, fill up the window washer fluid, and wash the car. It's just not worth doing it myself.
> 
> Years ago I owned a 1969 Cadillac. I knew nothing about cars but I could do all the maintenance (tuneups, brakes) and many repairs (like replacing the water pump, alternator, master cylinder) by myself--well needed help to bleed the brakes. All you needed was a Chiltons for the most part.
> 
> ...


Use Gumout and you never have to replace clogged jets in a carburetor. Or fuel injectors.


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## Heisenburger (Sep 19, 2016)

UberBastid said:


> If the oil change place had not tightened that plug - THEY'D be buying him a new engine.


I've not heard of anyone having filed a claim for something like this. I can't foresee it being a trivial task to get a shop to both admit fault and actually cut a check for a few grand.


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## Heisenburger (Sep 19, 2016)

tohunt4me said:


> ...set afire from filling hot lawnmower with gas
> . . .


Wow! Interesting. I've safely done that at least 1000 times in my life. I didn't know that it was inherently risky.


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Heisenburger said:


> Wow! Interesting. I've safely done that at least 1000 times in my life. I didn't know that it was inherently risky.


My relative lived. After months in a burn unit. Severe burn patients used to get a choice. Get pumped up with morphine and die peacefully,or shoot for survival.
Daily debridement of dead tissues. Scraping off of burnt damaged skin.
For months and months and months.. . .
If they are burned young scar tissue must be cut every few years to allow growth . . . Equipment is designed safer nowadays.muffler guards,overflow channels for gas tanks that lead away from hot parts.
More stable formulation of gasoline,with set flashpoint parameters,rubber boots over spark plug contact,where an errant spark can not ignite standing gasoline,holes in mower deck to drain standing gasoline.


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## yojimboguy (Mar 2, 2016)

*What would you get to lift the car up?*

Me? A trained mechanic and an auto shop.


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## UberBastid (Oct 1, 2016)

Heisenburger said:


> I've not heard of anyone having filed a claim for something like this. I can't foresee it being a trivial task to get a shop to both admit fault and actually cut a check for a few grand.


File a "claim"? You don't file a claim ... you write them a certified letter with a copy of your oil change receipt, a copy of the receipt for a new engine with the notation on it that the cause of the engine seizing up was "failure to tighten the oil drain plug" and DEMAND a reimbursement. If they don't do it, or if they ignore ... file in small claims court.
You will win.

[QUOTE="Me? A trained mechanic and an auto shop.[/QUOTE]

Amen brother. There are some things that I hire a professional to do a professional job - and if they don't it is their responsibility. I am a real estate broker. If you buy a house without a licensee help, and don't find problems with the house (mold?) ... too bad. You just wasted $200,000. If you use me in the transaction, and I don't do inspections and discover it ... guess who has a claim against my E&O policy? I am a licensed professional - I am supposed to know better. A judge would hang me (and I might lose my license for incompetency, and I'd sure have problems getting insurance again) So, sure, save a couple thousand dollars ... most of the time you'll get away with it. Most of the time.

I don't mind rolling the dice, but when the win is small, and the potential loss is large ... it's not a smart bet. Just my own opinion. Form your own.


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## Om3ga7 (Oct 10, 2016)

dirtylee said:


> Mobil 1 extended performance & filters. Worth every penny.


Definitely MO1. It's really good synthetic oil. I also add Lucus stabilizer every-other oil change. I'm over 125k still running strong.


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## Zap (Oct 24, 2016)

Pennzoil Platinum (10 year/300,000 mile Limited Warranty) SAE 5W30 full synth. But I have it changed (and new filter) by Jiffy Lube every 7,000 miles, +/- 200 miles. I've read some people run up to 10,000 miles with this oil but Chicago streets are very unforgiving on a car. 15% Uber Fleet discount @ Jiffy & I pay with my Shell Fuel Rewards linked credit card which gets me a $.05/gal discount on my next fill up.

No desire or time for DIY oil changes here.

1,200/wk avg miles
131k miles


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## PTB (Feb 3, 2015)

what did you use to tighten the oil pan bolt?
I was informed that my oil pan threads are stripped.
shop told me they use over-size bolt with self-tapping threads as a short term fix.
I asked if they can use a threaded insert instead, answer no.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

PTB said:


> what did you use to tighten the oil pan bolt?
> I was informed that my oil pan threads are stripped.
> shop told me they use over-size bolt with self-tapping threads as a short term fix.
> I asked if they can use a threaded insert instead, answer no.


Just buy a new bolt. They're like $2 and any parts store should have them. I always have a couple for all my cars just laying around just in case.

When you tighten the pan bolt, don't over torque it. It doesn't have to be extremely tight. Just tighten until it's snug.


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## LAuberX (Jun 3, 2014)

Heisenburger said:


> I've not heard of anyone having filed a claim for something like this. I can't foresee it being a trivial task to get a shop to both admit fault and actually cut a check for a few grand.


Years ago we had an oil change done on one of the messenger's cars, a Chevrolet Chevette! the next day the gal who drove it called the office saying the car made a bad noise and quit running. We drove over to rescue her and inspection showed it was out of oil, oil was everywhere under the hood because the oil filter had fallen off! so "pros" don't get it right all the time.

We took the shop to small claims court and won, for some reason we actually let them repair the engine as the shop was 100 yards from our business and all turned out well, the shops insurance covered the mistake....

I always change my own fluids, I KNOW the job was done right, nobody charged me for synthetic yet poured in dino oil... nobody over torqued anything..

I let Synthetic go the full 10,000 mile Toyota interval with no worries. Just take your time, use ramps.


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## UTX1 (Dec 7, 2015)

Heisenburger said:


> Wow! Interesting. I've safely done that at least 1000 times in my life. I didn't know that it was inherently risky.


Only a bit more risky with a lit cigarette dangling out of the side of the mouth..
This may be near the top of the list why folks catch fire gassing up the lawnmower.

Looking at one of my neighbors, I might also put on that list the heat from her thunderous thighs
rubbing together with every step could potentially give off enough heat to cause combustion.
That might not be a completely bad thing though.


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## PTB (Feb 3, 2015)

EcoboostMKS said:


> Just buy a new bolt. They're like $2 and any parts store should have them. I always have a couple for all my cars just laying around just in case.
> 
> When you tighten the pan bolt, don't over torque it. It doesn't have to be extremely tight. Just tighten until it's snug.


the threads on the oil pan are stripped, 
buy a new bolt?


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## UTX1 (Dec 7, 2015)

PTB said:


> the threads on the oil pan are stripped,
> buy a new bolt?


They sell an oversized oil drain plug for many models.
Sometimes it also requires a gasket about the size of a US nickel.


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## PTB (Feb 3, 2015)

UTX1 said:


> They sell an oversized oil drain plug for many models.
> Sometimes it also requires a gasket about the size of a US nickel.


this is short term fix
shop already installed oversize bolt, but said it would only last a couple oil changes at most


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## Older Chauffeur (Oct 16, 2014)

Amsoil Uber Connect said:


> My dealer keeps trying to get me to use Pennzoil. I looked at him square in the eye and said, "So your asking me to put a lesser quality oil in this car to get me to come back more often right? and with the engine repair you just bought me, ( new set of lifters and a Cam shaft ). Right buddy." As I patted him on the shoulder.
> 
> I can't say anything more since I'm not a paid sponser. U will just have to goto the website and read for your self. Meep Meep...


So I have to ask- why did you need the new lifters and camshaft?


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## LAuberX (Jun 3, 2014)

PTB said:


> the threads on the oil pan are stripped,
> buy a new bolt?


It depends how careful the mechanics are in the future... The oversize bolt has cut new threads that may well last many oil changes if nobody over torques the bolt. The original should NEVER have stripped in the first place, the mechanics are goobers!!.... and why I change my own oil.

The problem is one day you may go in for an oil change and the mechanic strips the new bolt. Now you can't drive it home, you must get a new pan there and then.

I would get a new pan installed when the next oil change is due. That way you can plan for it making sure the shop has the correct parts on hand before leaving the car. Most likely it will take most of the day... this way you can get a few quotes and know how much it will be, not a surprise.


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## PTB (Feb 3, 2015)

LAuberX said:


> It depends how careful the mechanics are in the future... The oversize bolt has cut new threads that may well last many oil changes if nobody over torques the bolt. The original should NEVER have stripped in the first place, the mechanics are goobers!!.... and why I change my own oil.
> 
> The problem is one day you may go in for an oil change and the mechanic strips the new bolt. Now you can't drive it home, you must get a new pan there and then.
> 
> I would get a new pan installed when the next oil change is due. That way you can plan for it making sure the shop has the correct parts on hand before leaving the car. Most likely it will take most of the day... this way you can get a few quotes and know how much it will be, not a surprise.


new oil pan is way too expensive a solution

how about this?


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## LAuberX (Jun 3, 2014)

This is another solution if you know the exact size of the oversize threads that are now in your drain pan. 
With one of these installed nobody ever removes the plug again, they just flip the valve and the oil drains out, the threads in the drain pan must be good enough to tighten this device on, then the device stays on forever:

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/standard-fumoto-engine-oil-drain-valves


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## LAuberX (Jun 3, 2014)

PTB said:


> new oil pan is way too expensive a solution
> 
> how about this?


NO. a threaded insert is never the correct way to repair a drain plug.


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## UTX1 (Dec 7, 2015)

PTB said:


> this is short term fix
> shop already installed oversize bolt, but said it would only last a couple oil changes at most





PTB said:


> new oil pan is way too expensive a solution


How much is the oil pan for your make/model ?

For me, going the dealership route would be like over $100, maybe $150 for others.
A trip to the wrecking yard and some permatex would run about $40....plus time.
Then somebody has to do a little work....anybody wanna crawl under the car ?

That's just for the oil pan and wouldn't include any costs of labor....I live dangerously.
A mechanic might quote like $300 or so for turn-key job, but if you can do the work,
it would be a lot cheaper, plus it takes the mystery out of "what's going on down there".
(...how many times i've heard that one...)


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## PTB (Feb 3, 2015)

UTX1 said:


> How much is the oil pan for your make/model ?
> 
> For me, going the dealership route would be like over $100, maybe $150 for others
> but trip to the wrecking yard and some permatex would run about $40....plus time.
> Then somebody has to do a little work....anybody wanna crawl under the car ?


$22.99 for gasket set
$504 for labor
$529.99
OS30837R OIL PAN GASKET SET
REMOVE & REPLACE OIL PAN GASKET


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## UTX1 (Dec 7, 2015)

PTB said:


> $22.99 for gasket set
> $504 for labor
> $529.99
> OS30837R OIL PAN GASKET SET
> REMOVE & REPLACE OIL PAN GASKET


Holy shit ! That's too much, even in California !
Okay I give up...sell the car !


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## PTB (Feb 3, 2015)

UTX1 said:


> Holy shit ! That's too much, even in California !
> Okay I give up...sell the car !


they have this listed as a RECOMMENDATION
notice it is GASKET set,


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## Fuzzyelvis (Dec 7, 2014)

tohunt4me said:


> Use Gumout and you never have to replace clogged jets in a carburetor. Or fuel injectors.


Gumout was doing nothing at that point. I think when I rebuilt the carburetor my mpg went from 8 to almost 10...this was in the late 80s, early 90s. So the car was about 20 years old. Bucket of rust but would take off like a bat out of hell. And I do miss the smooth ride. Wasn't fun parallel parking it though.


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## UTX1 (Dec 7, 2015)

PTB said:


> they have this listed as a RECOMMENDATION
> notice it is GASKET set,


Yea, wait a second...that's just a gasket. What about the oil pan ?
Must be included in the other $504 ? Maybe ? Who knows ?

It is kinda weird. Change the oil pan and _perhaps_ change the gasket ?
Time to shop around.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

PTB said:


> the threads on the oil pan are stripped,
> buy a new bolt?


My mistake. I was thinking you meant the the bolt was stripped.

Oil pans are aluminium and easy to re-thread. Just buy a kit and rethread it. It was stripped because someone is over torquing the plug. Just rethread it and be careful not to over torque it again. Once you rethread it once, that's it. If you strip it again, you'll need to replace the pan.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

PTB said:


> $22.99 for gasket set
> $504 for labor
> $529.99
> OS30837R OIL PAN GASKET SET
> REMOVE & REPLACE OIL PAN GASKET


$504 for labor for an oil pan?? Do they need to drop the exhaust to get to it? Even then, that's nuts. What type of car do you have?


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## PTB (Feb 3, 2015)

2008 Honda Civic Hybrid


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

PTB said:


> 2008 Honda Civic Hybrid


which engine? 1.3, 1.8, or 2.0?


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## PTB (Feb 3, 2015)

EcoboostMKS said:


> which engine? 1.3, 1.8, or 2.0?


 1.3


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## PTB (Feb 3, 2015)

looks like alot of labor here


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

PTB said:


> 1.3


That's annoying. The 1.8 liter aftermarket pans are like $70. I'm not finding anything aftermarket for the 1.3 hybrid. Weird looking gasket too. Might have to go oem or possibly find a used one on ebay if it comes to it.


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## PTB (Feb 3, 2015)

LAuberX said:


> This is another solution if you know the exact size of the oversize threads that are now in your drain pan.
> With one of these installed nobody ever removes the plug again, they just flip the valve and the oil drains out, the threads in the drain pan must be good enough to tighten this device on, then the device stays on forever:
> 
> https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/standard-fumoto-engine-oil-drain-valves


typed in 2008 Honda Civic and below comments in RED popped up.

Your oil pan may have a recessed oil drain port and need an adapter ADL-106 to install the valve except for F106SX. F106SX can be installed without the adapter. However, if F106SX can only be pointed down close to the ground, use ADP-106SX to adjust the valve orientation.


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## PTB (Feb 3, 2015)

looks like original Oil Drain Plug is M14-1.50 thread

so maybe 16mm part from fumoto would do the trick.

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/f108s-fumoto-valve-with-short-nipple-for-16mm-15-drain-plug.html


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

PTB said:


> looks like original Oil Drain Plug is M14-1.50 thread
> 
> so maybe 16mm part from fumoto would do the trick.
> 
> https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/f108s-fumoto-valve-with-short-nipple-for-16mm-15-drain-plug.html


Buy a kit specifically for rethreading oil pans. They're aluminum and easy to do. This way you won't have to guess.

If you're not comfortable doing it, pay a mechanic to do it. It's really not a big deal.

If you can rethread a stripped spark plug well without replacing the whole block, you can definitely do an oil pan.


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## Amsoil Uber Connect (Jan 14, 2015)

Older Chauffeur said:


> So I have to ask- why did you need the new lifters and camshaft?


Because the car was from a rental company that I didn't know about at time of purchase with nearly 48K on it. (I have a standing rule, never buy a used anything from a rental agency). Most likely, if ever, never changed the oil in the first place. The trans oil was the worst I've ever seen. So that was the first thing I did to it. Just like my truck.

ps the oil was perfectly clean like it was just changed, before I signed the papers.


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

LAuberX said:


> It depends how careful the mechanics are in the future... The oversize bolt has cut new threads that may well last many oil changes if nobody over torques the bolt. The original should NEVER have stripped in the first place, the mechanics are goobers!!.... and why I change my own oil.
> 
> The problem is one day you may go in for an oil change and the mechanic strips the new bolt. Now you can't drive it home, you must get a new pan there and then.
> 
> I would get a new pan installed when the next oil change is due. That way you can plan for it making sure the shop has the correct parts on hand before leaving the car. Most likely it will take most of the day... this way you can get a few quotes and know how much it will be, not a surprise.


You can retap the thread,even drill and go up to the next largest size standard or metric. You can do this until you run out of the thickened metal area around the thread. The rest of the pan is too thin to cut enough thread to hold a bolt.
If you are really cheap,you can remove pan,wash away all flamable oils,and weld a thread let to the pan.
Also tapping pan may leave metal shavings in pan.would require flushing with cheap,or used oil before running engine.
You can also install a drain valve that allows you to turn valve and drain oil with no wrench.( if you take pan off,and have no access to welding,you can take short pipe nipple or all thread nipple same size as hole.put flat nut on each side of pan,large flat washers with rubber underneath to seal against pan.it will pressure seal)
Push comes to shove,hammer a wooden plug in.drill it out in 10,000 miles and hammer a new plug in.
I've seen wood plugs hammered into a steel hull to keep ships from sinking. It will work.
If you do pull pan off ,and don't like the gasket price,buy gasket material and make your own. Cork is cheapest but I would prefer something tougher. If pan has a lip pointing up you can place face down on gasket material and tap an outline impression into gasket material,or trace with pen.trim inside edge of gasket with razor knife.( next week I'll tell you how to make 2nd stage inlet gaskets for a 3 stage natural gas compressor for pipelines)


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

EcoboostMKS said:


> Buy a kit specifically for rethreading oil pans. They're aluminum and easy to do. This way you won't have to guess.
> 
> If you're not comfortable doing it, pay a mechanic to do it. It's really not a big deal.
> 
> If you can rethread a stripped spark plug well without replacing the whole block, you can definitely do an oil pan.


You can rethread a stripped plug,or hammer in an insert. Aluminum heads in chevys get hairline cracks that cause plug lock or stripping.
I've got a 95 s-10 I had to do it twice on. Spark plug had to be drilled out once. A lot cheaper than buying a head.vaccum what you can off the piston top through plug hole before cranking. Rest will blow out exhaust valve.( shade tree machinist)


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Fuzzyelvis said:


> Gumout was doing nothing at that point. I think when I rebuilt the carburetor my mpg went from 8 to almost 10...this was in the late 80s, early 90s. So the car was about 20 years old. Bucket of rust but would take off like a bat out of hell. And I do miss the smooth ride. Wasn't fun parallel parking it though.


What kind of engine was it ?
I've seen 327 with cam,with 8 pack,2-4 bbl get 8 mpg in a 72 vette. Thing would throw fire out of straight headers,was like riding a dragon.


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## LAuberX (Jun 3, 2014)

PTB said:


> looks like original Oil Drain Plug is M14-1.50 thread
> 
> so maybe 16mm part from fumoto would do the trick.
> 
> https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/f108s-fumoto-valve-with-short-nipple-for-16mm-15-drain-plug.html


The plug that is in there now needs to come out and have the thread diameter and pitch measured to get the correct drain valve. Who knows what drain plug is in there or what size it is now.

The notes are asking if the plug faces straight down, so the valve may protrude or hit a speed bump... or if the plug is on the side so the valve will be in a safe location once installed...


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

EcoboostMKS said:


> Ever change the oil on a newer mercedes? It's ridiculous. You have to remove panels just to get to the pan under the car. And you need a special mercedes tool just to remove oil filter housing. And then when you remove the housing and filter, you need to change like 3 or 4 o-rings every time you change the filter. And their little 3.5 liter engines take almost 9 qt's of oil. My v8 town cars with 5.4 liter engines only took 6. This is all for one oil change. There's nothing more annoying than working on a mercedes.


Use a strap wrench. [email protected] harbor freight. Autozone has boxes of 100's of o rings for $18.00 ( nitrile is chemical resistant). Also,never buy $70.00 belts for riding lawn mower,go to autozone measure it and get $7.00 belt that matches.
The parts are only " special" if they make you believe they are.


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## Rat (Mar 6, 2016)

Dan The Lyft Man said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> Well I am going to start doing my own oil changes and just had a question. What would you get to lift the car up? I just need to lift the car to remove the oil pan bolt, the oil filter is on the top of the engine.
> 
> ...


I just lift the car with one hand and remove the plug with the other


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## Rat (Mar 6, 2016)

Do not use concrete blocks to raise your car. They can collapse without warning. My cousin was injured badly doing this and was trapped under the car for hours. He was nearly killed


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## Sueron (Sep 16, 2016)

Another Uber Driver said:


> I use any decent brand of synthetic oil. Mobil1 is fine, Red Line has a pretty good reputation, as well, but I never have used it. I like Pennzoil, but I always have, even back before synthetic became popular. Some people rag on Quaker State. They like to call it "re-constituted dinosaur sludge", but never have I had any problem with it. In addition, I will use Wolf's Head synthetic or a synthetic with the brand name of any major oil company.


Quaker State years ago was the worse oil that you could put into a car. Working on autos for 55 years (way too many overhauls to mention), when you had to get into the engine, there was so much sludge around the head bolts, at times you couldn't even see them. In the past years they have changed the process, and may be fine now, but from my past experience I stay away from Quaker State oil. I feel, why use it when there are some good oils out there. Synthetic being one of them.


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Sueron said:


> Quaker State years ago was the worse oil that you could put into a car. Working on autos for 55 years (way too many overhauls to mention), when you had to get into the engine, there was so much sludge around the head bolts, at times you couldn't even see them. In the past years they have changed the process, and may be fine now, but from my past experience I stay away from Quaker State oil. I feel, why use it when there are some good oils out there. Synthetic being one of them.


Too much parafin.


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## Amsoil Uber Connect (Jan 14, 2015)

Oils have come a long way since the 70's and 80's. However the filters are over looked.

Feel good about getting a deal on the filter ?, yet not knowing it's Micron rating. Much less what a micron translates into a thousands of an inch and at what point do they need to be to fit between the bearing clearances.

Then there is the battle between oil flow vs filtration. And a balance must be achieved.

You see oil in of itself never wares out. It just gets dirty, filled with contaminants from combustion and diluted with fuel.
Hence the additive package gets depleted.

Now I have been told the heavy equipment operators of, caterpillars and such, the oil never gets changed. As a sample is taken and sent to a lab for analysis after so many hours of operation. Several things are measured and in the end when the additive package has been depleted, then it's changed. The benefit of this is that an engine failure can be detected before that failure actually occurs.

I could tell you that I went 75,000 miles on a complete change by installing a 1 micron filter in addition to the oem one on the car and sending samples to the lab. Changing the 1 micron fliter every 25k and the oem one at 50k, then adding a qt to top it off. But then,...


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## TBone (Jan 19, 2015)

Amsoil Uber Connect said:


> And that's the Beauti of the 25,000 oil change. 11 a qt, 16 the filter, 5-8 times less changes. Ok you can do the math.
> We would all like to change it less, can't match the store bought in filtration performance and I am doing my part with less waste oil going back into the enviorment.


25k oil change my ass. Maybe on some cars like a cheap focus but the oil will be way too dirty for a performance car, especially one with a direct injected engine.


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## PTB (Feb 3, 2015)

LAuberX said:


> The plug that is in there now needs to come out and have the thread diameter and pitch measured to get the correct drain valve. Who knows what drain plug is in there or what size it is now.
> 
> The notes are asking if the plug faces straight down, so the valve may protrude or hit a speed bump... or if the plug is on the side so the valve will be in a safe location once installed...


just got vehicle back from the DEALER
INSERT installed $142.61 parts and labor (14mm washer & bolt)
I ordered fumoto F106S and the ALD-106 adapter just in case I need it.


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