# Pro Tip: no torque wrench on drain plug



## MadTownUberD (Mar 11, 2017)

The photo is self explanatory. I was only using a torque wrench because the other wrenches I have didn't have the right size square drive for my 17mm socket. Replacement plug uses a smaller socket so can use a regular socket wrench.

Thank goodness my oil didn't dump out all over the place, and that the plug is a softer metal than the drain pan threads.


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## bsliv (Mar 1, 2016)

It would be a good time to upgrade to a Fumoto valve. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003T7XUE4/?tag=ubne0c-20


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## observer (Dec 11, 2014)

MadTownUberD said:


> The photo is self explanatory. I was only using a torque wrench because the other wrenches I have didn't have the right size square drive for my 17mm socket. Replacement plug uses a smaller socket so can use a regular socket wrench.
> 
> Thank goodness my oil didn't dump out all over the place, and that the plug is a softer metal than the drain pan threads.
> 
> View attachment 241050


When I worked at an auto parts warehouse we carried replacement drain plugs. I didn't realize stripping them was a thing.

I seem to remember Dodge vehicles were especially susceptible.


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## LAuberX (Jun 3, 2014)

MadTownUberD said:


> The photo is self explanatory. I was only using a torque wrench because the other wrenches I have didn't have the right size square drive for my 17mm socket. Replacement plug uses a smaller socket so can use a regular socket wrench.
> 
> Thank goodness my oil didn't dump out all over the place, and that the plug is a softer metal than the drain pan threads.
> 
> View attachment 241050


the real problem here is the "crush" washer was not replaced at each oil change. It only "crushes" once, usually at about 29 foot pounds of torque.

Just use a new crush washer every time, you can feel it "crush" and apply the seal needed with out over torquing the drain plug.


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## MadTownUberD (Mar 11, 2017)

Too late. The drain pan threads appear to be stripped as well. . I'll probably have to get a new drain pan.


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## LAuberX (Jun 3, 2014)

this takes a 14mm drain plug opening to 15mm:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEFKNX4/?tag=ubne0c-20


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## MadTownUberD (Mar 11, 2017)

LAuberX said:


> this takes a 14mm drain plug opening to 15mm:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEFKNX4/?tag=ubne0c-20


Awesome!!! You rock. Thanks!!!


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## wk1102 (Dec 25, 2015)

MadTownUberD said:


> Too late. The drain pan threads appear to be stripped as well. . I'll probably have to get a new drain pan.


You have options... tap it out... a heli-coil ..

I stripped out the drain plug threads on my out-drive on my boat. Heli-coil fixed it and is been good for 9 years now.



MadTownUberD said:


> Awesome!!! You rock. Thanks!!!


Make sure you run a quart of cheap oil through after to was out any metal shavings....

It's really a pretty easy fix. Get the kit, watch a video or two. You can do it.


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## Uber's Guber (Oct 22, 2017)

Add a Fram Sure Drain oil plug. Convenient oil changes and no more plug stripping.


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Sorry about your mishap.
I usually use a Impact Gun, which will hammer the Bolt loose without any damage being done.
Yes, and I use a new Washer on every Oil change, I got me a few spare drain plugs as well.
The Tread on the Pan has got to be toast.
I was a Welder back in the 90's and repaired many of these stripped Oil pans, no need to get a new one.
Just have a new Tread plug welded in, plug in the new Plug, and test it with Gasoline.
Yes, Gasoline will leak when water or Oil won't.
Best of Luck.


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## SurginGeneral (Aug 9, 2017)

bsliv said:


> It would be a good time to upgrade to a Fumoto valve. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003T7XUE4/?tag=ubne0c-20


My father got me one of these. They're on the whole family's fleet now 

Fantastic little piece of engineering


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## atg410 (Mar 30, 2018)

Damn, that drain plug doesn’t look good. Tightening the plug with torque wrench would not cause that amount of damage to the plug. Did you have it set to 100 ft/lbs or something?! Jesus. Something so simple now requires the replacement of the entire oil pan. On some cars, you gotta drop the subframe to do this. It can get pretty labor-intensive.

This probably won’t work judging by how mangled your drain plug is but you might get lucky and be able to use a slightly longer drain plug (same thread size of course) and be able to rethread the threads inside your oil pan. As others have mentioned, the Helicoil threaded insert kit is a cheap and easy fix as well. I used this on someone I know’s ‘97 Accord with the original oil pan and 265k on the factory motor and it held up great.

Some entry-level techs at the big-name shops use two foot breaker bars to tighten drain plugs. Most are too lazy to replace crush washers. They also use sh*tty filters and oil to make the most profit. This is why I do ALL of my maintenance by myself. I change my own damn oil with Mobil 1 full synthetic 0 weight 20 ($22 for 5 quarts and an OEM filter for $6). The same oil change would cost you anywhere from 50 to 100 at a shop or stealership.

And come on guys, it’s 2018. Fumoto valves are notorious for leaks. Many people with these that developed an oil leak (even from the head, nowhere near the drain) have gotten warranty repairs refused simply because they switched to a Fumoto valve. Don’t be lazy. And an impact gun on a drain plug?! Wtf...


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## doyousensehumor (Apr 13, 2015)

Fumoto valve. I can do an oil change with my bare hands. Don't even need to jack up car.


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## bsliv (Mar 1, 2016)

atg410 said:


> Fumoto valves are notorious for leaks.


And its usually due to improper installation. The valves come with a fiber washer. It takes less torque to tighten. Too much torque and the fiber washer no longer performs and leaks. Fumoto supplies recommended torque specs on their website.


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## atg410 (Mar 30, 2018)

bsliv said:


> And its usually due to improper installation. The valves come with a fiber washer. It takes less torque to tighten. Too much torque and the fiber washer no longer performs and leaks. Fumoto supplies recommended torque specs on their website.


I disagree somewhat. Yes, of course a hurried valve install can be the most obvious cause of a oil pan leak but I know experienced mechanics and service managers of large dealerships who even suggest staying far away from these valves. Do some research outside of the internet as well; there are a myriad of bad reviews about the Fumoto valve! Many have had their valves open up due to rough roads or debris hitting the undercarriage. You run over some tire debris on the freeway doing 60+ and you're toast (many people don't check their oil level). It sounds odd but the valve can open up without driver awareness and has happened in many instances. There is nothing better and safer than the old-fashioned (and correct) method of using drain bolt and crush washer that sit flush + tightened up against your oil pan. IMO, if I had a Fumoto valve, I'd constantly be checking underneath the car for any leaks after every drive. Peace of mind is more important than simplifying something that's already simple.

I almost installed a Fumoto valve on my boosted Civic Si (R.I.P. Fanta) because I would frequently send in oil samples to Blackstone Labs for analysis. Having the ability to just take out a little bit of oil instead of wasting five quarts of 500 mile-old Amsoil would've saved me both money and time. That's probably one of the main reasons to have a Fumoto valve. It's also useful to have for those who accidentally add too much oil during a change. I'm not trying to argue or stir up a debate but I've seen a hell of a lot - I'm just trying to save someone from a huge PITA.

Oops, just realized this isn't the bobistheoilguy forum. LOL


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## Uber's Guber (Oct 22, 2017)

Installed these on several vehicles. Works great, never an issue.


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## Hagong (Jan 17, 2017)

The correct torque for tightening drain bolts is a 2-second grunt while turning the wrench


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## RideshareGentrification (Apr 10, 2018)

That thing looks like it's been installed wrong multiple times and cross threaded . A torque wrench should keep you from stripping it as you set it to the specified torque setting and wham you're done . I have a small socket I use to do my drain bolt and tighten to the point it's not easy and have never had a problem (well since my first problem lol) it's easy to strip oil pan drain plugs if you're not careful . Worst case scenario you can get a tap kit on amazon for like $10 that will come with 4 or 5 new large drain plugs each with a washer

You could also try an eco plug they work great


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## goneubering (Aug 17, 2017)

MadTownUberD said:


> The photo is self explanatory. I was only using a torque wrench because the other wrenches I have didn't have the right size square drive for my 17mm socket. Replacement plug uses a smaller socket so can use a regular socket wrench.
> 
> Thank goodness my oil didn't dump out all over the place, and that the plug is a softer metal than the drain pan threads.
> 
> View attachment 241050


That's the worst I've ever seen.


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## MadTownUberD (Mar 11, 2017)

Well well well, look what came in the mail today! Wish me luck brothers! Will do probably in about 3-4 weeks.


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## Seamus (Jun 21, 2018)

LAuberX said:


> the real problem here is the "crush" washer was not replaced at each oil change. It only "crushes" once, usually at about 29 foot pounds of torque.
> 
> Just use a new crush washer every time, you can feel it "crush" and apply the seal needed with out over torquing the drain plug.


Fully agree. Worked for General Motors for 12 years. Most people have no idea of this. Its a 99 cent (or cheaper) part that can save a lot of headaches. Don't even think about it, change every oil change.


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