# Oil change



## Tibet (Oct 9, 2016)

Which oil .normal or synthetic


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## Uberboyz (Apr 6, 2016)

Corn. Smells good


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## Lenny_yellow_cab (Dec 12, 2014)

Tibet said:


> Which oil .normal or synthetic


Always synthetic.

Actually i just got my oil change today.

I use Mobile 1 synthetic.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

What does your owner's manual say?


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## uberxnyc1 (Feb 27, 2015)

You won't save any money for using regular oil, in fact when your engine starts giving problems, it will take back whatever you saved on regular oil + much more.

Go with synthetic.



EcoboostMKS said:


> What does your owner's manual say?


Owner manuals give recommendation based on normal conditions, they don't expect that their cars will be driven around 10-12 hours with stop/go traffic.

Hyundai manual says 7500 for oil change, i never skip 3500.


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## Hairytee (Jan 10, 2017)

Always go full synthetic. Cost more but much better for the engine. Some things you just don't cut corners.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

uberxnyc1 said:


> You won't save any money for using regular oil, in fact when your engine starts giving problems, it will take back whatever you saved on regular oil + much more.
> 
> Go with synthetic.
> 
> ...


Most owner's manual will give taxi/livery recommendations. I know ford/lincoln does. Lexus does too.

3500 is overkill for a quality oil especially if you're running synthetic. Get a used oil analysis done for $30 if you're genuinely curious how long your oil will last based on driving conditions. They run about $30.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php

And just an FYI to anyone interested. Mobil 1 is not a true synthetic. It's a class 3 oil. Only class 4 and 5 are true synthetics. It's kind of just a marketing gimmick from mobil and a lot of the oil companies.

The mobil 1 annual protection is a true synthetic. I believe that's their only real full synthetic formula. Same goes for Amsoil, red line, and royal purple - those are actual full synthetics, but cost a lot more than mobil1/valvoline/castrol/etc. Most marketed as full synthetics are only synthetic blends. Good oils, but not full synthetic.


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## YouBeer (May 10, 2017)

Tibet said:


> Which oil .normal or synthetic


Just keep driving.
Replace with new car when the old one stops working.


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## Punisher187 (Mar 28, 2017)

AutoZone has good deals from time to time. 1 gallon of Mobil 1 full synthetic with filter for $30-35. Some shops may charge anywhere from $15-20 just to replace it for you.


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## Undermensch (Oct 21, 2015)

Tibet said:


> Which oil .normal or synthetic


This. Only this (or other brands that offer a similar product):

https://mobiloil.com/en/article/why.../mobil-1-annual-protection-oil-tested-results

It lasts 20,000 miles (yes, they sell a 20,000 mile filter too). It costs only about $50 for most cars for the oil and filter at Wal-Mart.

Yes, it works for 20,000 miles. Yes, it protects your engine for 20,000 miles. No, you don't need to follow the guideline in your manual (unless your an oil change apologist then by all means do whatever makes you feel special).

$50 for 20,000 miles is going to be a substantial savings for most drivers and a huge time saver as we can put 5,000 miles on in a couple of weeks.


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## aluber1968 (Aug 7, 2016)

Just buy the synthetic oil and filter at Walmart and pay a shop $20 to replace it.
This way you know what you are getting. 
I used to replace it at a quick lub place, but never knew what I was getting poured into the engine. When it is bulk oil, you can just hope that they are not pouring regular oil.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

Undermensch said:


> This. Only this (or other brands that offer a similar product):
> 
> https://mobiloil.com/en/article/why.../mobil-1-annual-protection-oil-tested-results
> 
> ...


Or you can buy this for $28. Yes, 5,000 less miles, but about half the price of annual protection.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-...Full-Synthetic-5W-20-Motor-Oil-5-qts/20971334


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## Undermensch (Oct 21, 2015)

EcoboostMKS said:


> Or you can buy this for $28. Yes, 5,000 less miles, but about half the price of annual protection.
> 
> https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-...Full-Synthetic-5W-20-Motor-Oil-5-qts/20971334


Yeah it's not a bad option. But if you're paying $9 for a filter getting the extra 5k miles of life out of it makes this close to a wash. I prefer to get the extra miles without having to jack the car up again. If you pay someone to change it the extra 33% life will definitely be cheaper since it decreases the number of times you need to pay for the change.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

Undermensch said:


> Yeah it's not a bad option. But if you're paying $9 for a filter getting the extra 5k miles of life out of it makes this close to a wash. I prefer to get the extra miles without having to jack the car up again. If you pay someone to change it the extra 33% life will definitely be cheaper since it decreases the number of times you need to pay for the change.


Yeah, that's true. I just do that stuff myself, so i don't even consider that expense. Good point though.


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## Undermensch (Oct 21, 2015)

EcoboostMKS said:


> Yeah, that's true. I just do that stuff myself, so i don't even consider that expense. Good point though.


I'm a mechanical person... but I never changed my own oil until I started driving Uber... I'm surprised at how easy it is and how the oil change shops were using complete garbage filters, reusing crush washers, and making me wonder if they were even putting Synthetic in at all when they charge an extra $50 for it. I'm not sure I'll ever use a change place again unless I physically can't change the oil myself.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

Undermensch said:


> I'm a mechanical person... but I never changed my own oil until I started driving Uber... I'm surprised at how easy it is and how the oil change shops were using complete garbage filters, reusing crush washers, and making me wonder if they were even putting Synthetic in at all when they charge an extra $50 for it. I'm not sure I'll ever use a change place again unless I physically can't change the oil myself.


I do pretty much everything on my cars. There's really nothing to doing an oil change. Takes about 20 minutes from start to end. It's probably the easiest thing you can do with a car. Definitely helps having a garage helps if you have one.

You don't have to pay anyone, you know exactly what's going in and on the car, and you know it's being done right.


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## aluber1968 (Aug 7, 2016)

EcoboostMKS said:


> I do pretty much everything on my cars. There's really nothing to doing an oil change. Takes about 20 minutes from start to end. It's probably the easiest thing you can do with a car. Definitely helps having a garage helps if you have one.
> 
> You don't have to pay anyone, you know exactly what's going in and on the car, and you know it's being done right.


I agree with you about it being simple. The problem with most of us is the lack of a garage. I prefer to buy my own oil and filter.


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## Spectreman (Jun 11, 2016)

Do it yourself and brind the used oil to AutoZone or Advance Auto for recycling.


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## PMartino (Mar 18, 2016)

Punisher187 said:


> AutoZone has good deals from time to time. 1 gallon of Mobil 1 full synthetic with filter for $30-35. Some shops may charge anywhere from $15-20 just to replace it for you.


O'Reilly does this too. It seems to alternate every month; this month it may be Castrol and a WIX filter, next month may be Pennzoil and Bosch. Always using the 5-quart bottle. I have a collection of unneeded oil filters that are from times when I already had one but you need to get it to save the $12 or so by buying the package deal.


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

DIY:

https://uberpeople.net/threads/save-money-why-not-do-your-own-oil-change.200966/


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## mikes424 (May 22, 2016)

Undermensch said:


> This. Only this (or other brands that offer a similar product):
> 
> https://mobiloil.com/en/article/why.../mobil-1-annual-protection-oil-tested-results
> 
> ...


One caveat. 
If your vehicle is under warranty and you have an oil related engine failure and the owner's manual says to change every 6000 miles or whatever, the manufacturer may decline to pay for the repair.


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## wk1102 (Dec 25, 2015)

Uberboyz said:


> Corn. Smells good


Baby oil good for solo sessions or with a partner.


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## Undermensch (Oct 21, 2015)

mikes424 said:


> One caveat.
> If your vehicle is under warranty and you have an oil related engine failure and the owner's manual says to change every 6000 miles or whatever, the manufacturer may decline to pay for the repair.


Sure. Could happen. Maybe.

Aliens might invade before then. I'm not sure which is more likely.

I don't know anyone who has even had an engine failure in the first 60k or even 100k miles of a car which exhausts pretty much all warranties. Furthermore, if for some strange reason it did happen: the dealer wants to do the repair, they don't pay for it he manufacturer does and they pay the dealer to do it... why would the dealer want to stop themselves from making money? If they did ask for receipts "I don't keep them" is the only answer you need to give.

If you want to play it safe and spend a ton of money for oil changes to prevent something that never happens, go for it.

Finally, in the realm of Ubering, we should be talking mostly about used cars to begin with. Only in limited cases can it work to buy new for Uber and even then buying used would be more profitable.


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## wk1102 (Dec 25, 2015)

mikes424 said:


> One caveat.
> If your vehicle is under warranty and you have an oil related engine failure and the owner's manual says to change every 6000 miles or whatever, the manufacturer may decline to pay for the repair.


It's would be almost impossible to prove. If the wrong type of oil was used or if there was no oil in the crankcase, tjat would could be an issue. As Larry David aka Undermensch pointed out, the dealers are independent of the manufacturer. They won't look too hard to disprove warrantee work, they make a shit ton of money in labor from the manufacturer.


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## mikes424 (May 22, 2016)

wk1102 said:


> It's would be almost impossible to prove. If the wrong type of oil was used or if there was no oil in the crankcase, tjat would could be an issue. As Larry David aka Undermensch pointed out, the dealers are independent of the manufacturer. They won't look too hard to disprove warrantee work, they make a shit ton of money in labor from the manufacturer.


I disagree. The mfr needs to approve rhe work. I had an incident many years ago. My oil changes were done at a gas station (tells you how long ago) not the dealership. Mfr initially declined to pay because dealer had no records of the changes. Once I produced the recepts, the work was approved.


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## Spork24 (Feb 5, 2018)

uberxnyc1 said:


> You won't save any money for using regular oil, in fact when your engine starts giving problems, it will take back whatever you saved on regular oil + much more.
> 
> Go with synthetic.
> 
> ...


synthetic at every 3500 miles... please people do not do this, why flush your money even if you're doing it yourself. there is no reason to do this. at least check the oil and see if it is burnt 1st.


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## Pizzadub (Dec 4, 2017)

I run 10,000 miles on non synthetic Wal Mart cheapest 10w 40 oil. Keep it on level during 10k which could be as much as 5 quarts. I gets dirty and burns. So many other things will fail besides causes of oil choice in non turbo motors. Keep it cheap and on level.


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## Adieu (Feb 21, 2016)

Pizzadub said:


> I run 10,000 miles on non synthetic Wal Mart cheapest 10w 40 oil. Keep it on level during 10k which could be as much as 5 quarts. I gets dirty and burns. So many other things will fail besides causes of oil choice in non turbo motors. Keep it cheap and on level.


Wrong approach

Which is probably why you're burning tons of oil already


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## Pizzadub (Dec 4, 2017)

It’s not wrong. Sold the car at 306k miles and it was still running. Lowest cost option is winning. It’s a work tool.


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## bsliv (Mar 1, 2016)

Synthetic is superior to dino juice.

Mazda and Honda recommend a 7500 mile interval between changes when driving under normal conditions. Severe condition have a 3500 mile interval recommendation. Severe conditions include: driving less than 5 miles per trip, in freezing temperatures, less than 10 miles, driving in hot weather (over 90°F), extensive idling or *long periods of stop and go driving*, driving with a roof top carrier, driving in mountains, or driving in *muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads*. The auto makers do not have an incentive to recommend a short interval other than to keep their equipment in top condition. I trust their recommendations.

One can have their oil analyzed for about $30. I looked at a report that had 12,000 miles on the oil. If I remember right, it had about 5 times more iron than recommended. Other compounds also exceeded the recommendations. The viscosity was about half as when new. Then there is the sludge and varnish left behind due to the detergent break down. That ticking sound is the lifters not being lubricated. The metal in the oil will scrape the cylinder walls and rings leading to less compression, not good.

Adding 5 qts between changes? lol. Probably no need to change the oil in that. Filter, yes. I have an old Blazer with 200,000 miles on it that I add about 1/2 qt between changes.


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## arielpraa (Jan 19, 2018)

Tibet said:


> Which oil .normal or synthetic


Check owners manual


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