# Save Money!!! Why not detail your own Car?



## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Alright, Folks. Here we go again. I decided to do my own Detail on my SUV, because the Truth is, here in SoCal you will pay a good $300-$400 on a good solid Detail.
That includes wash, Clay, paint cleaner, swirl remover and wax after. YMMV.
And, to be honest, I haven't really been happy about any of these places who do a cheap quick Wax Job.

We recently had the Fires in Anaheim Hills, and they put a lot of Ashes and stuff on my Car, so I decided to detail my Car myself. How hard can it be?

You need to decide if you need just a quick Wash and wax or some more serious cleaning, including Clay.
I use a Ziplock Bag, put it over my Hand, and slightly feel the paint.
It tells you all the little nicks you have in your paint.









Ok, lets start this project:

Give it a good Wash:










I use the "two Bucket solution"










One Bucket contains the Water with Soap, the other clear Water only.
You wash, move the Mitts over the Car, rinse in the clear Bucket, then dip it into the Soap, repeat.

Notice the little Grill inside the Bucket? That will keep the dirt on the Bottom, so you won't get it back on the Car.
More Info, just Google "two Bucket Car wash".

I use a Blade and the Absorber to dry it off:










Goes very fast. Will not scratch the Paint.









Moving on.


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## Irishjohn831 (Aug 11, 2017)

Billy Mays, you’ve come back to us !!


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

A good Detail will have to be done in the Shade. Several Reasons: You will get "Swirly marks" in the Sun. Spots from Hard Water. Polish components dry too fast, etc.
And here in SoCal, it is hot. I had to get my Canopy out:










Ok, Car dry, and in the Shade.
Ready for Clay.

Got my little Table with Tools and stuff set up:









Why Clay?
Well, the Car is usually being bombarded by all kinds of Stuff on the Road.
Dirt, Grime, rocks, crap all over the place, the Freeways pollute the Car in a bad way.
Microscopic little dents and bumps are in the paint, and they need to be sanded down.
That's what the Clay does. It makes the paint smooth like a Baby's butt.









I'm using the Clay from Mothers, and started to use the Detailing solvent that came with it, but like the "No Rinse" Solution much better.
It keeps the Surface wet, and the Polymer based Solution will remove any little peck of dirt from the Car.









Keep moving the Clay in one Direction only, and keep the Surface wet. You will "feel" resistance from the paint being polished.
Things will get smooth quickly.

Just look at the stuff I got off my "clean" Car:


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

It took me a good Hour to complete the Clay Job on my SUV.
I could do a small Honda in probably half the Time.
Next, I chose to apply Meguiar's Mirror Glase Swirl Remover. Just because I have a Pearl black Car.
You may be able to skip this Step, and apply the final Wax.
But I wanted it cleaner, getting rid of all those Swirl Marks.









I am using the Black & Decker WP900 6-Inch Random Orbit Waxer/Polisher.
That thing is amazing, only cost me $30.00
The blue Pad is the application pad, which you use to apply polish/Wax to the Paint.










Then, you use the polishing/buffing pad to shine things up.

A Trick is to use a Microfiber Towel between the Buffer and paint.










Takes a bit getting used to, but you will be able to keep the Towel in place.

A good Idea is to tape up the Areas you don't want to polish, such as Moldings, Headlights, Emblems, etc.
Just tape them up:










or:










You get the Idea.

A small Brush works well on Decals, or small cracks between stuff:










At this time, I have done:
Washed the Car.
Clayed the Car.
Polished the Paint.

Now it is time to apply the Final Coat.
I Choose Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax.


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

When applying the final Coat, or any Coat, I usually start with the Roof.
Get that one out of the Way first. I had to use a Step ladder. YMMV.
Then, do the Hood and both front Fenders. Apply the Wax using the application pad on the Buffer.
Then, using the polishing Pad and/or a Microfiber towel to buff it out.










Repeat on Passenger Doors, then Drivers Doors, finally the Rear, you get the Idea.
Small Portions only. Work your way up.
Take a Break. Have a Beer?

Ok, the Result:










Not too shabby for a 6 year old Car?










Pic of the Hood, and yes, it is black:










Thanks for reading, Comments are, as always Welcome.

Oh, Btw.
I used a total of 25 (!) Microfiber Towels.
They are all in the Washer now to be used again.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

You really need to get yourself a real DA polisher if you're going to do your own paint correcting. That little black and decker is a piece of junk and you really can't get the results out of it that something like this will give you.

https://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-7424xp.html

Get some quality pads (lake country are my favorite). Your favorite compounds and polishes and you'll get the best results. Seriously, throw that black and decker in the trash where it belongs.

Ultimate wax is a good product, but you really need to check out ceramic coating if you want next level protection. The stuff blows ultimate wax (which isn't actually even a wax, it's a sealant) out of the water. Lasts much longer and protects much better. Not cheap though.

This is the coating i use. Once you use a ceramic coating, you'll never go back to waxes and sealants.

https://www.autogeek.net/cquartz-kit.html


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

EcoboostMKS , as I appreciate your Comments, I have worked with all kinds of those DA Polishers in the past.
But please do read up on the Reviews of that little B&D, you'd be surprised how well it works.
I am totally happy with it, and it doesn't burn lines like some of those DA Polishers do.
I did use Ceramic Coating back in the 90's and just wasn't too impressed by it.
Cheers, and keep the good Conversations going. Remember, I am not a professional, I fix Computers for a living.


Edit:
After looking at those new Ceramic coatings, I may give it a try.
On my 2008 ML.
Thanks, EcoboostMKS .

And yes, to be honest, it did take me some 6 (!) Hours to do.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

DA's don't burn the paint like the old style orbital buffers did. Technology is far more advanced. They move in figure 8's as they polish and it's literally impossible to screw up. You couldn't try to burn that paint even if you wanted to anymore. That's why they call them dual action... they're constantly moving in different directions. They're dummy proof now.

I've seen the reviews on those black and deckers. I'm sure they're fine for what they are, but once you use a real polisher like the one i posted, you'll never go back. It's basically like comparing an old toyota camry to a ferrari in terms of performance and results. 

I'm not a professional either. I drive for a living, but i like having cool stuff and doing the best i can with what i've got. 

Oh and the car looks good. Claying is a step of detailing that a lot don't know about, but makes a huge difference. Your car probably feels like a sheet of glass now. Nice job.


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Thanks for the Comment, EcoboostMKS . And the Compliment.
Yeah, we like cool Stuff, that's why I have two of those Cars, LOL!

And I see those Cars as an Investment, they are making me Money, so why not take good care of them?
I'm sure you seen my "Oil-change" Thread. It is what it is.
You can save a little, do a better Job than the Shops do, and proudly ride your Ride.
Because the way it looks and rides, it is all because of your Effort.
And Pax always appreciate a clean Ride.
Soon I'll do a little Paint Chip repair tutorial, what do you think?


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## Recoup (Jan 30, 2017)

Nice job, Snowblind ! Nothing like a mirror finish on a black car.

I have only one question--you have a big bottle of Optimum No-Rinse (ONR) right there, so why the heck are you using bubbly foamy "car wash soap"?

Use that ONR for your two-bucket wash step--you'll only need one bucket!

I have a love/hate relationship with claying. God, I do love starting out with paint that feels like sandpaper and ending up with paint that feels smooth as glass. LOVE IT. But snickafrassarassa if I can hold onto that damn clay (and once you drop it on the ground, you have to toss it). My fingers get so clumsy when I'm claying, don't know why. But I digress. Claying your car is totally worth it, especially if you're going to be waxing it next.

Pro tip for claying: Use cellophane from a pack of cigs, instead of the ziplock, to evaluate your paint. The thinner the cello, the better. You can really feel the grit embedded in your paint with cello over your fingers.

I use Klasse cleaner wax myself... however, I completely ditto EcoboostMKS 's recommendation of Lake Country pads. And the dual action polisher too.

Nice to see a couple of fellow car-care DIYer! (Your headlights look like new too--what do you use on them?)


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## Irishjohn831 (Aug 11, 2017)

Thanks for the illustration, I live in a co op and we do not have hose access.


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## Recoup (Jan 30, 2017)

Irishjohn831 said:


> Thanks for the illustration, I live in a co op and we do not have hose access.


Hey, Irishjohn831 , if you don't have hose access you should definitely check out ONR. Amazon carries it, and don't let the price scare you off. You use one CAPFUL per two gallons of water, and it really is No Rinse. You slosh it on with the softest sponge you can find, you dry it off with a good microfiber towel, that's it. It's some kind of magic polymer that traps dirt the way Febreze traps odors. Your sponge will get filthy but your towels will be practically pristine.

This stuff is the detailer's secret weapon.


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Thanks for the Comments and Tricks, Recoup .
The Optimum No-Rinse is (thinned) used with the Clay...works perfect.
You are absolutely right, when you drop that Clay Bar, it is over.
That's why I buy Clay Bars in pairs, and sometimes, cut them in half. Lol!

You got the Headlights correct, they are new.
See I got extended Warranty on the Car (100000 miles) and I kept complaining to the Dealer that the Headlights turned "yellow".
It took a couple of Visits to the Dealer with other problems (Oil leak at the Turbo, small rattle in the Tailgate, etc.)
Finally, they folded and installed these new Headlights.

What do I use on yellow Headlights? On my 2008 ML I used this Kit here:










It works extremely well on Sun-bleached yellowed Headlights.
One Day I did like4 Cars in my Driveway, lol.
All of my Friends Cars.
I also use some very fine Sandpaper (3000-5000 grid) to perfect the Job.
My Car will not need that treatment for some years to come.
I did listen to EcoboostMKS and ordered some of those Lake County pads for my Buffer.
The cellophane method sounds interesting, I'll try that on my other ML.
Thanks again for the Comments!


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## Recoup (Jan 30, 2017)

I like the 3M headlight kit too. I'm afraid my (no clutch) drill is difficult to run at the consistently low RPMs required for a really good job, though... My 2006 (non-rideshare) vehicle's headlights are now a lot clearer than they used to be, but you can definitely see some swirl. Operator Error...


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Recoup I did the Headlights on my 2003 ML years ago, still on my Site:

http://www.frankschoelzel.com/Headlight.htm

Check it out. I used the 3M Kit.


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## backcountryrez (Aug 24, 2017)

Snowblind said:


> Recoup I did the Headlights on my 2003 ML years ago, still on my Site:
> 
> http://www.frankschoelzel.com/Headlight.htm
> 
> Check it out. I used the 3M Kit.


Thanks for the tips! I found that I used to use a day to detail my cars (and the GF's)...it was therapeutic and I didn't have to hear from her for a day...which, when you live together at the time, is a luxury greatly appreciated.


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Thanks, backcountryrez .
Much appreciated!


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Selfish Bump!


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## Autofahrer (Oct 25, 2017)

I clean my 2014 Ford Escape routinely, at least one a week with* Mother's Instant Detailer* and microfiber cloth. ( Rinse out every few days)
Keeps car clean looking and use on windshield and glass keeps the rain beading off in rain. Also clean inside windows weekly, keeps windows clear.
Vacuum every so often. Hard part for me is keeping wheels clean looking after driving a week. RAIN today in Maryland....



Snowblind said:


> Alright, Folks. Here we go again. I decided to do my own Detail on my SUV, because the Truth is, here in SoCal you will pay a good $300-$400 on a good solid Detail.
> That includes wash, Clay, paint cleaner, swirl remover and wax after. YMMV.
> And, to be honest, I haven't really been happy about any of these places who do a cheap quick Wax Job.
> 
> ...


:thumbsup Very Nice looking Ride...Uber On!


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

Thanks, Autofahrer ( are you from Germany?).
Anyways, there are ways to keep the Wheels clean: use Ceramic Brake pads.
To protect them from Salt, Dirt, debris you can coat them over the Winter months.

In Germany, for example it is the Law that you drive Winter Tires from November through March,
so your "Nice Wheels" stay warm and dry in the Garage, lol!
Also, not only for you Guys back east, clay your Windshield as you do your paint. Makes a big difference.


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## Chris1973 (Oct 9, 2017)

Is the OP on meth? Where do you get the energy


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

> Is the OP on meth?


Lol Chris1973 , absolutely not. My Car is my investment, and I'd like to keep it looking and running great as long as I can.


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## Autofahrer (Oct 25, 2017)

Snowblind said:


> Thanks, Autofahrer ( are you from Germany?).
> Anyways, there are ways to keep the Wheels clean: use Ceramic Brake pads.
> To protect them from Salt, Dirt, debris you can coat them over the Winter months.
> 
> ...


I lived in Germany twice for 3 years, in Karlsruhe and Bamberg. was in the Army back
then. I'll try the clay on the paint and windshield, that I have not done.


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## Snowblind (Apr 14, 2017)

> I lived in Germany twice for 3 years


I see, good for you. I guess you had some good Times in these very nice Areas.
(I lived in Northern Germany for 27 Years)
And it also explains Autofahrer !


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## Adieu (Feb 21, 2016)

INTERIOR detailing is more relevant in this line of work


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