# Should tires really be inflated to Car Manufacturer Specs?



## Sal29 (Jul 27, 2014)

GM recommends 30 psi all around for my 2004 Chevy Impala 3.4. 3389 lbs dry curb weight. 225/60/R16 tires. 
30 PSI seems crazy low especially for the front 2 tires to me.
I was running about 36 psi front and 32 psi rear and I just did a tire rotation.
I noticed that all 4 tires have much more tread left in the center than the edges. I increased the psi to 40 front 36 rear hoping for more even tire wear and most longevity possible.


----------



## rtaatl (Jul 3, 2014)

The recommendation on a Chrysler 300 is 32psi. I run them from 36-38psi. It gives a smoother ride, especially with the 20 inch OEM rims. In the winter that 30 will be down to 25-26 at startup...definitely seems low to me.


----------



## Frontier Guy (Dec 27, 2015)

Talk to a reputable tire store, they will give you a better idea what is needed. My wife's Buick recommends 34 psi on lo profile 18's, I run them at 36 to 38 psi for better ride, less rolling resistance.


----------



## Stygge (Jan 9, 2016)

How about 100 psi?


----------



## Another Uber Driver (May 27, 2015)

Stygge said:


> How about 100 psi?


If you like blowouts, collisions, flipping your car or paying for tyres, knock yourself out. You just stay in Minnesota and I will stay here. When I come to visit my sister and brother-in-law, I will take a taxi or rent a bicycle. The bicycle paths up there are excellent.

Brother-in-law will be here this weekend as the Twins are playing the Nationals in an exhibition game; the old Senators versus the current Nationals who were the Expos.


----------



## Stygge (Jan 9, 2016)

Another Uber Driver said:


> If you like blowouts, collisions, flipping your car or paying for tyres, knock yourself out. You just stay in Minnesota and I will stay here. When I come to visit my sister and brother-in-law, I will take a taxi or rent a bicycle. The bicycle paths up there are excellent.
> 
> Brother-in-law will be here this weekend as the Twins are playing the Nationals in an exhibition game; the old Senators versus the current Nationals who were the Expos.


Well, after concluding that the automotive engineers are absolutely clueless on tire inflation after years in college, sophisticated computerized calculations, and thousands of hours of field tests I just want to know the optimal tire pressure from the incredibly smart people on this board.  I bet they haven't even tried 100 psi.

I would recommend you take a taxi when you come here. It is not uncommon with 130 psi tire pressure on the bicycle paths.

Disclosure: As a former race driver I have just a tiny little experience of tire inflation.


----------



## Another Uber Driver (May 27, 2015)

Stygge said:


> Disclosure: As a former race driver I have just a tiny little experience of tire inflation.


Perhaps the tyres for the track will stand up to one-hundred-thirty PSI. I doubt that even a passenger car Michelin will stand up to that kind of pressure. I wold expect that it would blow long before that.


----------



## Stygge (Jan 9, 2016)

Another Uber Driver said:


> Perhaps the tyres for the track will stand up to one-hundred-thirty PSI. I doubt that even a passenger car Michelin will stand up to that kind of pressure. I wold expect that it would blow long before that.


I have no idea. They probably explode less at higher pressure but at 100 psi they would never warm up and would give traction like steel on concrete. I would say do what the engineer tells you unless there is a tangible problem.


----------



## RightTurnClyde (Dec 9, 2015)

Whether racing or driving uber it's all about maintaining the best contact patch with the road. I've found the recommended psi from the manufacturer is where you want to be for the best general balance of performance vs. wear. I wouldn't throw anything above 40psi in any road tire, especially a cold tire. I run 36psi personally but that was determined through trial and error.


----------



## Sal29 (Jul 27, 2014)

It's not the automotive engineers that are clueless, it's the car manufacturers that are clueless/ care more about profits than safety. The Ford recommended underinflation tire pressure of the Firestone tires on Ford Explorers was a perfect example. Many lives would have been saved if consumers inflated those Firestone tires on Ford Explorers 5 or 8 psi higher than Ford recommended.


----------



## Older Chauffeur (Oct 16, 2014)

I too run my tires at a few psi higher than the car sticker calls for, but suggest resetting the tire pressure monitoring system while you're at it. And watch out when you have the car in for service, as some dealer service employees will lower the pressure to meet factory specs.
I've run 50 psi in sedan tires on the track, for better handling when doing high speed evasive/escape and accident avoidance training. The cars seemed easier to control in 180 degree turns, etc. 
edit: I forgot to add that in normal use, those few psi give me maximum tread life, eliminating the uneven wear patterns the OP described.


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Sal29 said:


> GM recommends 30 psi all around for my 2004 Chevy Impala 3.4. 3389 lbs dry curb weight. 225/60/R16 tires.
> 30 PSI seems crazy low especially for the front 2 tires to me.
> I was running about 36 psi front and 32 psi rear and I just did a tire rotation.
> I noticed that all 4 tires have much more tread left in the center than the edges. I increased the psi to 40 front 36 rear hoping for more even tire wear and most longevity possible.


Your tire wear pattern indicates under inflation.center wear indicates over inflation.
The minimum to maximum tire inflation will be printed onto the tire.
Small print near the rim.
Load rating,speed rating, and tire ply numbers all affect inflation capability.


----------



## itsablackmarket (May 12, 2015)

The manufacturer recommendation is great and all, but it's just a general reference. You can deviate a few PSI up or down. Usually up to protect the side walls from bubbling over horrible roads, and also protect your wheels from being bent especially low profiles. Every tire model is different and the manufacturer cannot possibly advise you a perfect PSI for every one of them. In my case though, they recommend 35 PSI all around, and that is what I run them at. A car I had years ago gave a very horrible recommendation, every owner of the car ignored it. It was a VW though.


----------



## Adieu (Feb 21, 2016)

Sal29 said:


> GM recommends 30 psi all around for my 2004 Chevy Impala 3.4. 3389 lbs dry curb weight. 225/60/R16 tires.
> 30 PSI seems crazy low especially for the front 2 tires to me.
> I was running about 36 psi front and 32 psi rear and I just did a tire rotation.
> I noticed that all 4 tires have much more tread left in the center than the edges. I increased the psi to 40 front 36 rear hoping for more even tire wear and most longevity possible.


Center unworn edges worn = OVERinflated

Follow directions dude.

Although if given two options - BMW for example has one for general usage, and one for "speeds >100 mph", run closer to the hispeed one if you do fulltime or overtime hardcore rideshare

Also be aware that the B traction / C temperature rated "fuel economy" tires often found on econoboxes hybrids rentals ex-fleet vehicles and the like DO NOT always reliably hold upto many hours of nonstop driving or long highway runs each day, and WILL overheat themsrlves and become dangerously slippery if run too long without a chance to cool down... not a treadwear issue but an inability to hold up to allday+ use without degrading rubber issue

Stick to A/A or better yet AA/A rated tires if you run a fairly heavy car with fairly strong engine in heavy duty taxi mode


----------



## Adieu (Feb 21, 2016)

rtaatl said:


> The recommendation on a Chrysler 300 is 32psi. I run them from 36-38psi. It gives a smoother ride, especially with the 20 inch OEM rims. In the winter that 30 will be down to 25-26 at startup...definitely seems low to me.


Chrysler recommnds 32 psi COLD = "at startup"

30 psi cold ~= 34 psi during operation

Pressures also fluctuate themselves based on:
Temperature: +1 psi / 10 degrees 
Altitude: +several psi at serious altitudes

Example: tires inflated to 32 cold in moderate SoCal weather (and possibly indoors) hit 42 hot in the hot mountainous region just before the Nevada/Idaho border


----------



## Adieu (Feb 21, 2016)

Another Uber Driver said:


> Perhaps the tyres for the track will stand up to one-hundred-thirty PSI. I doubt that even a passenger car Michelin will stand up to that kind of pressure. I wold expect that it would blow long before that.


"Extreme" inflations for track might be something like

55/40 FWD (drifty rice racer cars)
45/50 RWD

Some racers will also pretty much ignore the cold settings and control for target hot tire pressures at pit stops

Note that most consumer tires print a warning to NEVER exceed 51 cold

Also note that TRUCK tires (tractor trailer 18 wheelers not pickups) are often run 100-120 psi cold, but they're quite different from your chevys and chryslers


----------



## Adieu (Feb 21, 2016)

Stygge said:


> I have no idea. They probably explode less at higher pressure but at 100 psi they would never warm up and would give traction like steel on concrete. I would say do what the engineer tells you unless there is a tangible problem.


Uhm NO the more traction, the more they'll warm up. Its friction dude.

Also too much traction is NOT always desirable... some turns are safer taken a bit sideways lol


----------



## Adieu (Feb 21, 2016)

RightTurnClyde said:


> Whether racing or driving uber it's all about maintaining the best contact patch with the road. I've found the recommended psi from the manufacturer is where you want to be for the best general balance of performance vs. wear. I wouldn't throw anything above 40psi in any road tire, especially a cold tire. I run 36psi personally but that was determined through trial and error.


Its relative

36-hot-all-around might get you killed in a modern bimmer cruising in the carpool lane... cause it wants something like 38/46 cold ~= 42/50 hot for extended hispeedruns

It REALLY does depend on the car.

PS for noobs: #value/#value means "front/rear" NOT a range of values.


----------



## rtaatl (Jul 3, 2014)

Adieu said:


> Chrysler recommnds 32 psi COLD = "at startup"
> 
> 30 psi cold ~= 34 psi during operation
> 
> ...


This Georgia heat has them hitting 38 from 32...I like just a few extra psi since it seems to make for a smoother ride.


----------



## Adieu (Feb 21, 2016)

rtaatl said:


> This Georgia heat has them hitting 38 from 32...I like just a few extra psi since it seems to make for a smoother ride.


And there is the reason why some brands refuse to install TPMS that shows live numbers

When they ask for 32 on the door, they mean 32 cold ~= 36 hot

For georgia heat, if doing your tires at night in morning or indoors, go -2 on the recommendations. Or just redo em after stopping for a meal during the usual time/temperature you drive in

Because air temps alone will fluctuate your tire pressureslike crazy. Going from an air conditioned garage in SoCal to a desert in Nevada bumps tire pressures good 5 psi, for example. Add altitude and you might get em to go dangerously high dyring the day

Conversely, inflating tires on a mountain in blistering heat, and taking them down into the valley into a cold night = recipe for side impact crash on a turn


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Sal29 said:


> GM recommends 30 psi all around for my 2004 Chevy Impala 3.4. 3389 lbs dry curb weight. 225/60/R16 tires.
> 30 PSI seems crazy low especially for the front 2 tires to me.
> I was running about 36 psi front and 32 psi rear and I just did a tire rotation.
> I noticed that all 4 tires have much more tread left in the center than the edges. I increased the psi to 40 front 36 rear hoping for more even tire wear and most longevity possible.


Edge wear IS a sign of UNDERINFLATION.
Center wear is a sign of over inflation.
Wear on one edge is sign of misalignment.either too much caster or camber.spotty wear is a balance problem,or sign of brake troubles,or of suspension troubles ( shocks& strutts)

In winter ,inflate to maximum specs.
Full inflation can save you up to 10% fuel economy.the ride may be rougher.

In high heat ,and high speed use,inflate 4 pounds below max.specs
To allow heat expansion of air and prevent blow outs.


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Sal29 said:


> GM recommends 30 psi all around for my 2004 Chevy Impala 3.4. 3389 lbs dry curb weight. 225/60/R16 tires.
> 30 PSI seems crazy low especially for the front 2 tires to me.
> I was running about 36 psi front and 32 psi rear and I just did a tire rotation.
> I noticed that all 4 tires have much more tread left in the center than the edges. I increased the psi to 40 front 36 rear hoping for more even tire wear and most longevity possible.


Car dealers will always let air out to make the ride seem smoother.


----------



## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

Here's a simple answer. Don't think too much about it and listen to whatever the people that designed your car recommends. If they recommend 30 psi cold... have it at 30 psi cold.


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Stygge said:


> How about 100 psi?


Would be like riding on tires filled with cement.
Very rough.


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

The military and industry have been researching airless designs.


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)




----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Adieu said:


> Its relative
> 
> 36-hot-all-around might get you killed in a modern bimmer cruising in the carpool lane... cause it wants something like 38/46 cold ~= 42/50 hot for extended hispeedruns
> 
> It REALLY does depend on the car.


Depends on the car,conditions,service,road structure,and use.

Since you are carrying passengers,luggage and weight,a few extra pounds are required.

Sidewall height must be maintained.

Weight of passengers compresses sidewalls extra air expands sidewall range.

YOU MUST DRIVE TAKING INTO CONSIDERATION CHANGES YOU HAVE MADE.

OVER INFLATED TIRES REQUIRE DIFFERENT BRAKING DURING WET CONDITIONS.

KNOW YOUR MACHINE.

Doesn't matter how much passengers "like" you if you can not use your machine.


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Bottom line ,NEVER skimp on Brakes and tires.you have a 3,000-4,000 pound vehicle moving at high speeds with less than 4 Square feet of contact with the road.

Your life depends on the tire footprint.








If you're driving on ice and snow,let air out accordingly.


----------



## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

tohunt4me said:


> Bottom line ,NEVER skimp on Brakes and tires.you have a 3,000-4,000 pound vehicle moving at high speeds with less than 4 Square feet of contact with the road.
> 
> Your life depends on the tire footprint.
> View attachment 44083
> ...


Agreed. Two things to never skimp on - brakes/rotors and tires. They can be the difference between life and death.


----------



## Fireguy50 (Nov 23, 2015)

Also read the tire sidewall.
It lists the operating pressure range and weight load.

Start with the vehicle manufacturers recommendation, and consider a slightly higher pressure if the tire manufacturer recommends it for your vehicles weight.


----------



## Fireguy50 (Nov 23, 2015)

tohunt4me said:


> Your life depends on the tire footprint.
> View attachment 44083
> 
> If you're driving on ice and snow,let air out accordingly.


Lower pressures can't handle higher speeds! It overheats the tire are it will fail from the inside out. If you reduce pressure for extreme ice, reduce speeds.


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

If you have ever had to swerve quickly to avoid a pedestrian,animal,or cell phone driver at high speeds,and had to fight your vehicle for more than 2 seconds to keep control,you will always value peak tires,brakes ,and suspension.


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Fireguy50 said:


> Lower pressures can't handle higher speeds! It overheats the tire are it will fail from the inside out. If you reduce pressure for extreme ice, reduce speeds.


If you driving fast on ice,you are asking for it.


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

On a curve at high speed,you will first encounter " body roll" the car body leans with the curve to the suspension limits,then you encounter tire sidewall roll,next step is rear end breaking loose,or skid.

If you are not INFLATED per load,you may skip skid and go to FLIP.

Of course I always watch interior cabin G- force with passengers.
If they aren't pinned against the door,many appreciate Swift delivery to departing flights.

Your tracking into the curve at highways speeds can greatly reduce G force.


----------



## Adieu (Feb 21, 2016)

Misleading mistranslation common on german cars.

The HIGHER pressures are for HIGHER speeds, as the little"over 100 mph" says... not for below 100 mph, as the warning text seems to suggest









See?









tohunt4me said:


> Edge wear IS a sign of UNDERINFLATION.
> Center wear is a sign of over inflation.
> Wear on one edge is sign of misalignment.either too much caster or camber.spotty wear is a balance problem,or sign of brake troubles,or of suspension troubles ( shocks& strutts)
> 
> ...


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Adieu said:


> Misleading mistranslation common on german cars.
> 
> The HIGHER pressures are for HIGHER speeds, as the little"over 100 mph" says... not for below 100 mph, as the warning text seems to suggest
> 
> ...


No Autobahn here


----------



## Adieu (Feb 21, 2016)

tohunt4me said:


> If you have ever had to swerve quickly to avoid a pedestrian,animal,or cell phone driver at high speeds,and had to fight your vehicle for more than 2 seconds to keep control,you will always value peak tires,brakes ,and suspension.


Or you might just chuck off that FWD Nissan w/ Hankooks and buy a RWD German w/ Pirellis next time

Helps.A LOT.

Make it a diesel and it'll even spare you any agony at the pump.

Fuel cents per mile wise, my BMW 335d is mildly cheaper than a buddy's Nissan Altima 2,5... and my to-own car payments are ~$240/month cheaper than his lease payments, which basically covers the expensive oil and ridiculous tires.

I drove a brand new Altima thru 48 states. Zero tickets zero accidents, but did volunteer my way into a few ditches.on purpose. To avoid fighting the darn thing trying to skid offa cliff or into an 18 wheeler's path... no thx

Too darn scary.

I'm sticking to used bimmers and NEVER fighting a vehicle for any number of seconds again.


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Adieu said:


> Or you might just chuck off that FWD Nissan w/ Hankooks and buy a RWD German w/ Pirellis next time
> 
> Helps.A LOT.
> 
> ...


Pirelli is an Italian tire.
I find they dont wear well.


----------



## Adieu (Feb 21, 2016)

tohunt4me said:


> No Autobahn here


Well, no, certainly not in Louisiana...

Your state's famous disagreements with the feds over the drinking age means no federal highway maintenance ca$h.

I'm pretty sure your roads warrant a wholly separate approach to tire shopping and maintenance entirely

...probably one where most info isgleaned from jeep and pickup offroading forums,rather than generic advice about summer tires?


----------



## Adieu (Feb 21, 2016)

tohunt4me said:


> Pirelli is an Italian tire.
> I find they dont wear well.


German car. Italian tire.

NOT vice versa. Bimmer or Merc or Porsche on Pirellisis gonna be a pretty stable combo...A Fiat wearing Generals is NOT something I feel comfortable recommending


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Adieu said:


> Well, no, certainly not in Louisiana...
> 
> Your state's famous disagreements with the feds over the drinking age means no federal highway maintenance ca$h.
> 
> ...


" Federal Black mail"

State freedoms may exceed federal freedoms, but may not restrict them.

Feds have ways of making you do what they want.

Drinking age is 18 in Canada .
Large French population there also.

Considering 19% of the nation's import oil came through L.O.O.P. pipeline.Considering the large volume of offshore oil and gas provided the nation via the gulf of Mexico.
Considering the volume of refined petroleum products and plastics produced in Louisiana,the Federal Govt. Should be ASHAMED of coercive threats to withhold funds and Blackmail the state against its will .

We put a LOT of money and product in.

We do not get our share in return.

Federal Rape.
In excess of 25% of the nation's strategic energy supplies have come through Louisiana.
1/4 out of being 1/50 of the States.
MORE THAN OUR SHARE.

yet they treat us as stepchildren and Blackmail us in affording FREEDOMS to our citizens ?

They need to step off !


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Adieu said:


> German car. Italian tire.
> 
> NOT vice versa. Bimmer or Merc or Porsche on Pirellisis gonna be a pretty stable combo...A Fiat wearing Generals is NOT something I feel comfortable recommending


GM loves General and Uniroyal.


----------



## Sydney Uber (Apr 15, 2014)

You would think that 30 years of operating high mileage sedans/SUVs/people-movers would have me pretty convinced on what tyres at what PSI I should run. But the experimentation never seems to end. 

But here is my experience 

Manufacturers want a car to ride at its best - comfortably that suits that car's largest demographic owner group. I have 3 cars. My Holden (GM) Caprice 6 litre V8, it's driven full-time by my 73 year old senior driver. He rolls like the old Chauffeur he is. On the rare occasion I get to drive that car I find he has lowered the pressures between 10 and 15% to get that super soft ride. ( heaven help him if he ever needs to throw the car into an emergency avoidance manoeuvre. )

I hop in the car, pump the tires up to 20% over the recommended amount and have fun in a big V8 in a way they were designed to be driven!

I'm finding the Kumho brand to be a good compromise between cost and performance. I'd love to be able to afford running the top line Goodyears or Bridgestone tires but economics do not allow that. And yes I have been known to trial the cheap Chinese imports the results have been way too inconsistent for me to feel safe with them.


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Sydney Uber said:


> You would think that 30 years of operating high mileage sedans/SUVs/people-movers would have me pretty convinced on what tyres at what PSI I should run. But the experimentation never seems to end.
> 
> But here is my experience
> 
> ...


The " ingredients" ( chemical makeup) of the Chinese tires varies from day to day.

No level formula.


----------



## Sydney Uber (Apr 15, 2014)

tohunt4me said:


> The " ingredients" ( chemical makeup) of the Chinese tires varies from day to day.
> 
> No level formula.


There's Science behind everything! That does explain a lot. Chinese tyres can be terrific then the next set you buy 12 months later are total crap.


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Sydney Uber said:


> There's Science behind everything! That does explain a lot. Chinese tyres can be terrific then the next set you buy 12 months later are total crap.


Buy in batch.test set,if numbers show shipped tires from same batch.

If test set wears well,save batch.

If not,resale at cost.


----------



## Sydney Uber (Apr 15, 2014)

tohunt4me said:


> Buy in batch.test set,if numbers show shipped tires from same batch.
> 
> If test set wears well,save batch.
> 
> If not,resale at cost.


 That's great advice, and if I had a large scale operation would be the way to do it. But now days I only have three cars and three very different types of tire requirement.


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

I've thought about importing Chinese motorcycles.

They make a big bore ww2 Harley replica,probably the same engine tooling and dyes from 1942 . . 

Minimum order 6 per small shipping container.( could easily place on small trailer behind pickup.)

Under $2,000 a piece.


----------



## Fireguy50 (Nov 23, 2015)

tohunt4me said:


> No Autobahn here


Speak for yourself, maintain speed of traffic is pretty fast in Detroit metro.
If you're poor little automobile speedo & limiter ends at 85, you're in trouble most day's. Keep right and prayers for ya


----------



## Fireguy50 (Nov 23, 2015)

tohunt4me said:


> " Federal Black mail"
> 
> Federal Rape.


At least they let us vote, right?


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Fireguy50 said:


> At least they let us vote, right?


Righttttttt . . .

" SUPER DELEGATES"
' YOUR VOTE DONT COUNT CAUSE THEY COUNT THE VOTE".


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

What do you think of an election decided by " SUPER DELEGATES" ?

WHO CAN CHANGE THEIR MIND,AT THE LAST MINUTE.

FAIR REPRESENTATION OF DEMOCRACY ?

ELECTORAL COLLEGE ?

VERY SHADY.


----------



## Fireguy50 (Nov 23, 2015)

tohunt4me said:


> If you driving fast on ice,you are asking for it.


If you're that concerned about ice/snow you should have 2 sets of tires. Especially driving northern states and putting on fleet vehicle mileage. Much Safer and longer wear from that philosophy.

Generic all season tires are terrible in northern climates. Wear them out trying to find traction in the winter, and not rotating them will scrub off the front tires in the summer.
Good snow tires break better and offer better control
However the softer compound ruins precision control in the summer and wears out FAST

Good rain channeling tires break better and offer better control in the summer.
I'd ever consider different tire aspect ratio and dedicated rims for the tires. You'll be able to corner better without scrubbing off the compound.
(I do 215/60R17in winter and 245/45R19in summer)


You can easily TRIPLE your mileage you get from tires by having dedicated sets.

As a certified Emergency Driving Instructor, *you can drive as fast as you want on ice*......
In a perfectly straight line!

It takes patience and time to safely build up that speed. But it's possible and snow/ice shouldn't cripple a vehicle if the driver is properly trained and experienced.

It's the curves, sudden speed changes, lane changes, bridges, stopping, turning, and every slight driver control input that you have to slow down for and prepare in advance.
So driving "fast" takes the right conditions and doesn't last long 

Never trust bridges, just coast, no breaks, accelerator pedals, nor lane changes!
Always prepare for exit ramps way before you get there. 
Always plan lane changesa to a moment when you're alone, no traffic close to you.
Always have a plan on where you can safely ditch the vehicle in case the vehicles infront of you pile up. Don't let yourself get boxed in with a large group of traffic.
Snow is generally soft and good at absorbing energy, don't be part of the metal pile up if you can avoid it.

That's a sampling of a training course...
Used to drive my wife from Miami nuts


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Fireguy50 said:


> If you're that concerned about ice/snow you should have 2 sets of tires. Especially driving northern states and putting on fleet vehicle mileage. Much Safer and longer wear from that philosophy.
> 
> Generic all season tires are terrible in northern climates. Wear them out trying to find traction in the winter, and not rotating them will scrub off the front tires in the summer.
> Good snow tires break better and offer better control
> ...


All excellent and proven tactics.


----------



## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Being EMS,you didn't have the choice to stay home.


----------



## Fireguy50 (Nov 23, 2015)

tohunt4me said:


> What do you think of an election decided by " SUPER DELEGATES" ?
> 
> WHO CAN CHANGE THEIR MIND,AT THE LAST MINUTE.
> 
> ...


I don't really want to talk politics, but this circus is what we get when voter turnout for primaries is about 6% of the whole population. So we deserve what we get.
Representative Government only works if everyone understands that...
*Voting = Representation*


----------



## Adieu (Feb 21, 2016)

Diving in a ditch to avoid getting splattered by a suddenly oncoming Wide Load whose warner guy got lost somewhere... also a pretty decent bet even without snow

Clean your raidator and brakes after, though


Fireguy50 said:


> If you're that concerned about ice/snow you should have 2 sets of tires. Especially driving northern states and putting on fleet vehicle mileage. Much Safer and longer wear from that philosophy.
> 
> Generic all season tires are terrible in northern climates. Wear them out trying to find traction in the winter, and not rotating them will scrub off the front tires in the summer.
> Good snow tires break better and offer better control
> ...


----------



## Fireguy50 (Nov 23, 2015)

Adieu said:


> Diving in a ditch to avoid getting splattered by a suddenly oncoming Wide Load whose warner guy got lost somewhere... also a pretty decent bet even without snow
> 
> Clean your raidator and brakes after, though


Eh, I can't personally endorse that without a good amount of snow, seen too many roll overs and people ejected from vehicles. But if that's your best escape path, you have to choose. But sometimes you have no choice


----------



## Adieu (Feb 21, 2016)

Fireguy50 said:


> Eh, I can't personally endorse that without a good amount of snow, seen too many roll overs and people ejected from vehicles. But if that's your best escape path, you have to choose. But sometimes you have no choice


 I never said HEAD FIRST lol

Treat ditches and dividers and stuff like runaway rollerbladers treat lawns : a somewhat beter chance of a somewhat softer stop


----------



## Fauxknight (Aug 12, 2014)

I prefer to run a little over spec during the summer and close to spec for winter. Over spec rides rougher, but handles better on dry pavement and gets better mpg. For winter I'm not willing to risk it, one bad winter day can accumulate as many accidents as the entire summer driving season.



tohunt4me said:


> Car dealers will always let air out to make the ride seem smoother.


They did that on my truck. Oddly enough it was at factory spec when I test drove it. A couple days later when I picked it up they had dropped it a bit, temp was pretty much the same, nothing outside of a deliberate act could have changed it by more than 5psi.

They probably didn't know I was a tire pressure junky on my Prius and assumed I wouldn't notice. The best part is Onstar even sent me an email warning that they were out of spec.


----------



## Fauxknight (Aug 12, 2014)

Fireguy50 said:


> But sometimes you have no choice


Most of those drivers had already made their choice, to not drive at acceptable speeds for the road conditions. Notice the truck late in the video who had no trouble stopping, sadly the good drivers there were in the minority.


----------



## Fireguy50 (Nov 23, 2015)

Fauxknight said:


> Most of those drivers had already made their choice, to not drive at acceptable speeds for the road conditions. Notice the truck late in the video who had no trouble stopping, sadly the good drivers there were in the minority.


Yeah, people get a false sense of security in groups. Which is the opposite reaction in those weather conditions.
Only time I feel safer in a group of cars is light fog and deer hunting season.

Light fog you should get a sense the roadway is clear by seeing taillights in the distance, but don't clump together!
Continuous traffic generally keeps deer away from the roadway due to constant noise. If you're alone at night, the woodland creatures will get closer to the road.


----------



## D.J. (Apr 15, 2015)

I have run my tires at the max of 44 psi for years, on my 2005 Prius, my 2014 Prius and now my 2016 Subaru CrossTrek Hybrid. Max gas mileage, regal rotations, zero issues with tire wear.


----------

