# My check engine light



## jade8 (May 4, 2016)

just came on. Can I still drive for Uber or Lyft? Please help


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## Stygge (Jan 9, 2016)

Maybe you can but you shouldn't drive for any other reason than to go to the car part store and check the fault codes. Once you have the code you can determine if you have to fix something or just reset the code.


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## jade8 (May 4, 2016)

Stygge said:


> Maybe you can but you shouldn't drive for any other reason than to go to the car part store and check the fault codes. Once you have the code you can determine if you have to fix something or just reset the code.


Thanks! Do you know if there is a place that will read the code for free? Last time I went to a car shop the guy did read it for free and said it was my transmission!  Have had the car for 10 years but only 50,000 miles on it. Do you think I should just get a new car? I have a toyota corolla but it's been pretty reliable.


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## Stygge (Jan 9, 2016)

jade8 said:


> Thanks! Do you know if there is a place that will read the code for free? Last time I went to a car shop the guy did read it for free and said it was my transmission!  Have had the car for 10 years but only 50,000 miles on it. Do you think I should just get a new car?


Any car part store should be able to do it for you. Autozone and all the others. It could be anything really. A very common fault that illuminates the MIL light is an improperly closed gas cap. For many of the faults you can just turn the light off but living in California you may have to do it just before every inspection. Ha ha.


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## Stygge (Jan 9, 2016)

jade8 said:


> Have had the car for 10 years but only 50,000 miles on it. Do you think I should just get a new car?


In 50,000 miles you wouldn't expect anything major if it's a quality car.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

Is the code blinking or solid? If it's blinking, turn the car off and get it towed. Do not drive it.

Go to any car parts store - autozone, advanced auto, napa, etc - and tell them you have a check engine light on. Write down the specific codes and report back.


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## jade8 (May 4, 2016)

Stygge said:


> Any car part store should be able to do it for you. Autozone and all the others. It could be anything really. A very common fault that illuminates the MIL light is an improperly closed gas cap. For many of the faults you can just turn the light off but living in California you may have to do it just before every inspection. Ha ha.


Yes I hope it's the gas cap or something like that. But if it's the transmission the auto shop guy from before said it will cost several thousand dollars.


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## jade8 (May 4, 2016)

EcoboostMKS said:


> Is the code blinking or solid? If it's blinking, turn the car off and get it towed. Do not drive it.
> 
> Go to any car parts store - autozone, advanced auto, napa, etc - and tell them you have a check engine light on. Write down the specific codes and report back.


Thanks! No it's not blinking. Okay will do!


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## RockinEZ (Apr 29, 2015)

Jade8 get it read and you will know what the fault code is. 
Don't be afraid to know what is wrong. It will still be a problem, ignored or not. 

Knowing is better than running blind.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

jade8 said:


> Yes I hope it's the gas cap or something like that. But if it's the transmission the auto shop guy from before said it will cost several thousand dollars.


I highly doubt it's your transmission. If it were your transmission, you'd most likely know it by the way the car drove. A CEL code could be anything - that's why you need the specific code.


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## Fauxknight (Aug 12, 2014)

The only ****** that should go out at that mileage is a Nissan CVT. If that's not what you have it's likely something else.

It's likely the gas cap or a sensor or something similar and insignificant. Even if it is something more major you've had the car 10 years, you should have paid it off years ago and be expecting extra issues at this point. If you have no car payments try to save $100-$200 a month for breakages or for your next car.


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## UberMeansSuper (Aug 3, 2015)

With all the advances in technology, why can't the damn car just tell you, "Hey, man. _____ is wrong with me. Could you check that out?"

Or at least change the name of the light. "Check engine. But... it might not actually be the engine. In fact, odds are it's not the engine at all. It could be the fuel cap. It could be the oxygen sensors. It could just be I want you to take me to AutoZone so that guy who makes more than you reading engine-light codes than you do driving me around for pennies on the dollar can admire me and belittle you for running my engine (which is totally fine, by the way) into the ground for some rich asshat in San Francisco who's found a way to make money off you and me without lifting a finger."


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## Stygge (Jan 9, 2016)

UberMeansSuper said:


> With all the advances in technology, why can't the damn car just tell you, "Hey, man. _____ is wrong with me. Could you check that out?"
> 
> Or at least change the name of the light. "Check engine. But... it might not actually be the engine. In fact, odds are it's not the engine at all. It could be the fuel cap. It could be the oxygen sensors. It could just be I want you to take me to AutoZone so that guy who makes more than you reading engine-light codes than you do driving me around for pennies on the dollar can admire me and belittle you for running my engine (which is totally fine, by the way) into the ground for some rich asshat in San Francisco who's found a way to make money off you and me without lifting a finger."


Its already done. The fault codes give an indication of what may be wrong but anything as complex as a car needs some troubleshooting as you can get the same symptoms from several different fault. And what you call check engine light is actually called Malfunction Indicator Light or MIL. The equipment we have at my day job have about 3,000 different fault codes.


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## secretadmirer (Jul 19, 2015)

As long as you don't have Sheldon Cooper as a pax, you might be ok.


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## A Morgan (Apr 4, 2016)

I was told by Autozone that in CA it is illegal for Autozone to check the fault code. I recall an add by AAMCO Transmissions that they will check it for free but I don't know if there are any strings attached. When my needs maintenance light comes on (needs an oil change light); I just put some black electrical tape over it to block the light from customers until I can get the oil changed. With a check engine light you need to get it checked or you risk causing additional damage.


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## Stygge (Jan 9, 2016)

A Morgan said:


> I was told by Autozone that in CA it is illegal for Autozone to check the fault code. I recall an add by AAMCO Transmissions that they will check it for free but I don't know if there are any strings attached. When my needs maintenance light comes on (needs an oil change light); I just put some black electrical tape over it to block the light from customers until I can get the oil changed. With a check engine light you need to get it checked or you risk causing additional damage.


 Really? I will pack my code reader and take a California vacation!


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

A Morgan said:


> I was told by Autozone that in CA it is illegal for Autozone to check the fault code. I recall an add by AAMCO Transmissions that they will check it for free but I don't know if there are any strings attached. When my needs maintenance light comes on (needs an oil change light); I just put some black electrical tape over it to block the light from customers until I can get the oil changed. With a check engine light you need to get it checked or you risk causing additional damage.


Just buy your own code reader. You can get one for as cheap as $10 or $20. I keep one in all of my cars. You never know when you're going to need it.


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## RightTurnClyde (Dec 9, 2015)

A Morgan said:


> I was told by Autozone that in CA it is illegal for Autozone to check the fault code. I recall an add by AAMCO Transmissions that they will check it for free but I don't know if there are any strings attached. When my needs maintenance light comes on (needs an oil change light); I just put some black electrical tape over it to block the light from customers until I can get the oil changed. With a check engine light you need to get it checked or you risk causing additional damage.


I would suspect if anything, that it's illegal in CA. to "reset" the MIL light not merely check it. Even so, once you have your DTC code just unhook the battery for 30 min and your codes will be reset anyways (will come back though if fault is detected again).

Edit: after asking someone close who has worked at autozone for many years, it's autozones corporate policy to offer to check codes but not to clear them under any circumstances; except only in CA where they have stopped even checking altogether. Interesting...


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## UberMeansSuper (Aug 3, 2015)

Stygge said:


> Its already done. The fault codes give an indication of what may be wrong but anything as complex as a car needs some troubleshooting as you can get the same symptoms from several different fault. And what you call check engine light is actually called Malfunction Indicator Light or MIL. The equipment we have at my day job have about 3,000 different fault codes.


I was just trying to be funny.


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## sean911sc (Mar 29, 2016)

For some the CEL isn't an issue. Go purchase an ODB II scanner. If your mechanically inclined and your car is too new you might be able to address the issue yourself. If not the scanner will at least give info to compare/share with your independent auto specialist.


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

jade8 said:


> just came on. Can I still drive for Uber or Lyft? Please help


Uber : " we'll leave a light on for you ".


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

jade8 said:


> Thanks! Do you know if there is a place that will read the code for free? Last time I went to a car shop the guy did read it for free and said it was my transmission!  Have had the car for 10 years but only 50,000 miles on it. Do you think I should just get a new car? I have a toyota corolla but it's been pretty reliable.


Isn't 10 years old TOO old for UBER/LYFT ?


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## sean911sc (Mar 29, 2016)

All cars are different. First step with any CEL or other system warning indicator is to determine what mechanical or electrical system(s) are at fault. Only then can you determine the degree the vehicle can safely be driven.

Have you noticed any odd or out of the ordinary smells/sounds/vibration/leaks etc from the engine or car in general in the past 30-days? It's one thing to drive a car it's another to be in _tune _with it. Sometimes there are warning signs before a part(s) and then there aren't.


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## A Morgan (Apr 4, 2016)

tohunt4me said:


> Isn't 10 years old TOO old for UBER/LYFT ?


Los Angeles CA uber x is 2001 or newer (15 years).


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## RockinEZ (Apr 29, 2015)

I have a Tire Pressure Monitor like most other newer cars.
After you rotate the tires (or do anything to the tires) you have to reset the TPM.
After you reset the TPM the light stays on for several miles while the system resets.

I had one pax go ape shit on me because a light was illuminated on my dash.
I explained that I had just had the car serviced, and the tires checked and rotated.

I asked him how long his TPM took to reset......

I don't drive was the answer. The pax had never had a driver license or a car.
I bit my tongue instead of telling him to focus on things he understood...

Poor little rich kid probably gave me a 3*.


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## RockinEZ (Apr 29, 2015)

tohunt4me said:


> Isn't 10 years old TOO old for UBER/LYFT ?


Ten years is the limit. 
Eleven years is too old.


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## RightTurnClyde (Dec 9, 2015)

RockinEZ said:


> I have a Tire Pressure Monitor like most other newer cars.
> After you rotate the tires (or do anything to the tires) you have to reset the TPM.
> After you reset the TMP the light stays on for several miles while the system resets.
> 
> ...


I had that bright orange TPMS light on my dash for 2-months without anyone saying a word about it. Always figured at least someone would mention it, but alas no one did.

My TMPS light was on b/c the sensor was acting up, and not a low pressure condition btw. If any of you have problems with the TMPS system (and own a Nissan), I can refer to a slick workaround that'll reset the system without needing a dealer or wheel shop $$$ to use their special tool.


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## RockinEZ (Apr 29, 2015)

RightTurnClyde said:


> I had that bright orange TPMS light on my dash for 2-months without anyone saying a word about it. Always figured at least someone would mention it, but alas no one did.
> 
> My TMPS light was on b/c the sensor was acting up, and not a low pressure condition btw. If any of you have problems with the TMPS system (and own a Nissan), I can refer to a slick workaround that'll reset the system without needing a dealer or wheel shop $$$ to use their tool.


On a VW Jetta the reset button is inside the glove compartment. 
Check your manual, it may be easy for your car.

On some GM cars you have to go through a convoluted procedure including farting and tap dancing in the rear view camera.

GM sucks when it comes to their feature set. They want you to have to go to the dealer to reset the TPM.

VW lets the customer do it. Much better.


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## KGB7 (Apr 23, 2015)

RockinEZ said:


> On a VW Jetta the reset button is inside the glove compartment.
> Check your manual, it may be easy for your car.
> 
> On some GM cars you have to go through a convoluted procedure including farting and tap dancing in the rear view camera.
> ...


Yup, my VW has that button.


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## RightTurnClyde (Dec 9, 2015)

RockinEZ said:


> On a VW Jetta the reset button is inside the glove compartment.
> Check your manual, it may be easy for your car.
> 
> On some GM cars you have to go through a convoluted procedure including farting and tap dancing in the rear view camera.
> ...


Respects to V-dub nation and their engineers. Nissan has no reset button or procedure short of a TPMS scan tool. Some absolute genius on the Nissan forums I belong to figured out a workaround for this (Nissans only) that involves tricking the system into relearn mode by playing under the dash. If I only had a button like you...


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## Chicago88 (Feb 7, 2016)

jade8 said:


> just came on. Can I still drive for Uber or Lyft? Please help


YES! You can drive drunk, high, recently released from prison (even if you escaped).... Uber wants drivers! It sounds like I'm being sarcastic, sadly I am not. The answer to your question is - yes, you can drive... And no, Uber doesn't care. But, you should get it checked out to prevent sudden break down or larger unknown expenses.


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## wk1102 (Dec 25, 2015)

RightTurnClyde said:


> I had that bright orange TPMS light on my dash for 2-months without anyone saying a word about it. Always figured at least someone would mention it, but alas no one did.
> 
> My TMPS light was on b/c the sensor was acting up, and not a low pressure condition btw. If any of you have problems with the TMPS system (and own a Nissan), I can refer to a slick workaround that'll reset the system without needing a dealer or wheel shop $$$ to use their special tool.


Nissan here with faulty tmps how do I reset it?


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## RightTurnClyde (Dec 9, 2015)

wk1102 said:


> Nissan here with faulty tmps how do I reset it?


Follow these directions to a T (link below) for procedure. All nissans with TPMS use the same system that I'm currently aware of.

You'll need
*a short piece of metal (paper clip) or a wire.
* tire pressure gauge
* tire pump (at gas station or even home bike pump

I can almost guarentee that while performing this you'll think to yourself that it won't work, but I promise if done correctly it will (through multiple experiences doing it). If you have any further questions feel free ask me...

http://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...-reset-tpms-warning-by-yourself-for-free.html


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## KGB7 (Apr 23, 2015)

Smart car also has a button.


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## RockinEZ (Apr 29, 2015)

KGB7 said:


> Smart car also has a button.


I like driving Smart cars, but I feel safer on my scooter.


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## Tatertots (May 14, 2016)

Transmissions have their own light on the dash apart from the CEL. They rarely have anything to do with each other unless it's a serious electrical or computer problem which would be RARE on a newer car with only 50k miles


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## jade8 (May 4, 2016)

EcoboostMKS said:


> Just buy your own code reader. You can get one for as cheap as $10 or $20. I keep one in all of my cars. You never know when you're going to need it.


Thanks! Where can I get one for that cheap do you know?


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## jade8 (May 4, 2016)

sean911sc said:


> All cars are different. First step with any CEL or other system warning indicator is to determine what mechanical or electrical system(s) are at fault. Only then can you determine the degree the vehicle can safely be driven.
> 
> Have you noticed any odd or out of the ordinary smells/sounds/vibration/leaks etc from the engine or car in general in the past 30-days? It's one thing to drive a car it's another to be in _tune _with it. Sometimes there are warning signs before a part(s) and then there aren't.


I have noticed a slight gas smell when I would turn on the car but not so much lately.


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## jade8 (May 4, 2016)

Thanks everyone! You have been so much more helpful than I anticipated!  I called Autozone and they said they do not read codes. I live in CA so I guess they don't here. I did call an Aamco and they said they will read it no charge so I should be going tomorrow or the next day. I don't know why the last guy told me it was the transmission. I really hope it's just a small problem.


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## LAuberX (Jun 3, 2014)

Post the code here with your make/model/year after you get it. No reason to buy anything at Aamco just because they "pulled" the code.

I have had great success using the internet and/or specific car make forums to properly diagnose and repair every problem that has come up.. many here have also.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

jade8 said:


> Thanks! Where can I get one for that cheap do you know?


If you want one that works with your phone. You'll need an app for this one, but it does a lot more than just read codes. You can do all types of diagnostics with this and it's what I use.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/?tag=ubne0c-20

If you want something basic that will just read codes.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-LCD-Veh...:g:h-cAAOxymmJTjsLv&item=381084420634&vxp=mtr

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LHVOVK/?tag=ubne0c-20


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## RightTurnClyde (Dec 9, 2015)

EcoboostMKS said:


> If you want one that works with your phone. You'll need an app for this one, but it does a lot more than just read codes. You can do all types of diagnostics with this and it's what I use.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/?tag=ubne0c-20
> 
> ...


To add to this;

For iPhones: purchase a code reader that communicates to your phone through WIFI not Bluetooth. BT versions won't work as iOS is locked from certain types of use. For android you CAN use the Bluetooth versions.

I've used the ELM 327 for years, just to show you how cheap these are I pulled this from eBay today.


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## wk1102 (Dec 25, 2015)

jade8 said:


> Thanks everyone! You have been so much more helpful than I anticipated!  I called Autozone and they said they do not read codes. I live in CA so I guess they don't here. I did call an Aamco and they said they will read it no charge so I should be going tomorrow or the next day. I don't know why the last guy told me it was the transmission. I really hope it's just a small problem.


Because he was hoping you panic, leave tje car and say please fix it. Then he would have replace a 30 dollar O2 sensor, kept your car a week, called you and handed you a bill for $2,857.84.


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## A Morgan (Apr 4, 2016)

jade8 said:


> Thanks everyone! You have been so much more helpful than I anticipated!  I called Autozone and they said they do not read codes. I live in CA so I guess they don't here. I did call an Aamco and they said they will read it no charge so I should be going tomorrow or the next day. I don't know why the last guy told me it was the transmission. I really hope it's just a small problem.


Reading this post made my service engine soon light turn in one of my vehicles. Took it to Aamco and had them read the code. Looked on the computer and one of the things for that code is the gas cap. Went to pep boys; purchased a new gas cap $10 and a code reader $20. Read the code and got the same code as Aamco. Replaced the gas cap and used my new $20 code reader to turn the light off. Now I guess we wait and see if that fixed it or if the light comes back on .


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## jade8 (May 4, 2016)

A Morgan said:


> Reading this post made my service engine soon light turn in one of my vehicles. Took it to Aamco and had them read the code. Looked on the computer and one of the things for that code is the gas cap. Went to pep boys; purchased a new gas cap $10 and a code reader $20. Read the code and got the same code as Aamco. Replaced the gas cap and used my new $20 code reader to turn the light off. Now I guess we wait and see if that fixed it or if the light comes back on .


Hey you got the $20 code reader at Pep Boys? Which one?


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## jade8 (May 4, 2016)

LAuberX said:


> Post the code here with your make/model/year after you get it. No reason to buy anything at Aamco just because they "pulled" the code.
> 
> I have had great success using the internet and/or specific car make forums to properly diagnose and repair every problem that has come up.. many here have also.


Thanks! I went to Aamco and got the code. It's P0741. He wrote "Torque converter clutch circuit. Performance/stuck off". He said that in order to get a more detailed analysis he would charge $75 which would also go towards fixing the problem. He said it was something to do with the transmission. Could be an electrical problem or something bigger with the transmission. Said it would run a couple hundred if it was just an electrical problem, or up to two thousand if it was something bigger. What do you guys think?

I have a Toyota Corolla 2006 with a little over 50,000 miles on it.


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)




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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)




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## RightTurnClyde (Dec 9, 2015)

jade8 said:


> Thanks! I went to Aamco and got the code. It's P0741. He wrote "Torque converter clutch circuit. Performance/stuck off". He said that in order to get a more detailed analysis he would charge $75 which would also go towards fixing the problem. He said it was something to do with the transmission. Could be an electrical problem or something bigger with the transmission. Said it would run a couple hundred if it was just an electrical problem, or up to two thousand if it was something bigger. What do you guys think?
> 
> I have a Toyota Corolla 2006 with a little over 50,000 miles on it.


P0741 is a tough one for anyone on here to help you with as the cause can be a number of things.

If it was my car I'd start simple first or follow that your mechanic is checking these items.

1. Fluid: is the transmission fluid low? Is it really dirty? Both can pop a P0741, the low fluid level much more so. Easiest and cheapest. You can do yourself too, toyotas fluid level needs to be checked warm/hot so run it for 15 min. Make sure dipstick is showing correct level of transmission fluid. Look at the fluid on the dipstick, transmission fluid is bright red or pink. Any difference from this color indicates problems are afoot.

2. The TC clutch solenoid or valvebody: Probably the most likely issue. Guessing around $3-400 retail. They will check this with a scantool and voltmeter to ensure the solenoid is getting power/not shorted out and that the solenoid is sending/receiving the proper signal to the cars computer, and where the slip is orginating from. You might even get lucky and find that it's just a bad connector/harness instead of the solenoid itself.

3. Transaxle: this is the bad one, yes a whole new transmission (couple grand) due to an internal fault. The good thing is that this is very rarely the cause and at 50,000 miles even less likely so (unless you've run the car for a long time after damaging the transmission somehow). If it is, your clutch packs/springs are most likely causing the slip. Like I said not impossible, but highly unlikely.

At the end of the day, the most important thing to do is not to drive the car at this point until further analysis or risk more damage as the P0741 is telling you that you have more than 90% transmission or converter slippage. Besides the "check engine light" you might have possibly noticed that at highway speeds a hesitation or slight lack of "go up and go", or loss of fuel economy due to this...


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)




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## A Morgan (Apr 4, 2016)

jade8 said:


> Hey you got the $20 code reader at Pep Boys? Which one?


PT Performance Tool W2977; CAN OBDII Scan Tool. I love it. Easy to use. Easy to understand instructions. Gave me the code for Evap. Checked internet, most likely gas cap for that code. Replaced the gas cap. Tool allowed me to clear the code (turn off the light). Allowed me to check to see if it all systems were ready for a smog check. I checked after I replaced the gas cap and turned off the light and it told me not ready. I drove for a trip (35 miles each way) and then checked the next morning; all systems ready .


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## A Morgan (Apr 4, 2016)

jade8 said:


> Thanks! I went to Aamco and got the code. It's P0741. He wrote "Torque converter clutch circuit. Performance/stuck off". He said that in order to get a more detailed analysis he would charge $75 which would also go towards fixing the problem. He said it was something to do with the transmission. Could be an electrical problem or something bigger with the transmission. Said it would run a couple hundred if it was just an electrical problem, or up to two thousand if it was something bigger. What do you guys think?
> 
> I have a Toyota Corolla 2006 with a little over 50,000 miles on it.


Please keep us posted. I have a 2007 Toyota corolla Matrix so I am very interested. On mine the trans pan has a drain plug so easy to change part of the fluid. 50000 miles is low but I believe the fluid should be drained and refilled at least every 30000 miles. If it has not been changed it is definitely black and overdue. I think your fluid is very dirty and your filter screen is clogged and that's what turned on the light. I would first drain the fluid, which if its like mine is 3 qts. Then remove the pan and screen. Taking off the screen will get more fluid out. Replace the screen, clean the pan and magnets. Replace the gasket. Bolt the pan on with the plug and refill with new fluid. I would by 5 or 6 qts. Be careful not to overfill. The new fluid goes in through the dip stick tube using a funnel. The ****** fluid dip stick will tell you the type of fluid to buy. There is a procedure for draining the cooler lines but I have not done it. There are videos on utube and it looks fairly easy. I think with only 50000 mile that you don't have a serious problem yet but you definitely need your fluid and filter screen changed before you cause serious damage. Again please keep us posted. Thanks.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

jade8 said:


> Thanks! I went to Aamco and got the code. It's P0741. He wrote "Torque converter clutch circuit. Performance/stuck off". He said that in order to get a more detailed analysis he would charge $75 which would also go towards fixing the problem. He said it was something to do with the transmission. Could be an electrical problem or something bigger with the transmission. Said it would run a couple hundred if it was just an electrical problem, or up to two thousand if it was something bigger. What do you guys think?
> 
> I have a Toyota Corolla 2006 with a little over 50,000 miles on it.


Yeah... that could possibly be a big one. Hopefully it's something electrical, but if your torque converter is shot, you'll absolutely need a transmission rebuild along with a new torque converter. If you don't want to go the rebuild route, you can always get a used transmission and have that put in as well. It should be hard finding one for your model car. Might be cheaper than the rebuild.

Do you notice the car vibrating on and off for a few seconds and then return to normal as the car is accelerating? This is called "shuddering" and it's a common torque converter symptom. This would especially be noticeable around 40-50 mph. Does the RPM gauge hold steady or does it kind of slightly bounce up and down as you're accelerating?

If I were you, I'd get it over to a reputable transmission shop (not aamco) for a diagnosis. This is not something anyone can do over the internet.


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## LAuberX (Jun 3, 2014)

jade8 said:


> Thanks! I went to Aamco and got the code. It's P0741. He wrote "Torque converter clutch circuit. Performance/stuck off". He said that in order to get a more detailed analysis he would charge $75 which would also go towards fixing the problem. He said it was something to do with the transmission. Could be an electrical problem or something bigger with the transmission. Said it would run a couple hundred if it was just an electrical problem, or up to two thousand if it was something bigger. What do you guys think?
> 
> I have a Toyota Corolla 2006 with a little over 50,000 miles on it.


It looks like a trip to the dealer is in order... this thread on a corolla forum describes it and has a link to the Toyota service bulletin (attached here also):

http://www.corolland.com/forums/index.php?/topic/25080-error-code-p0741-help/

where exactly do you live?


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

A Morgan said:


> PT Performance Tool W2977; CAN OBDII Scan Tool. I love it. Easy to use. Easy to understand instructions. Gave me the code for Evap. Checked internet, most likely gas cap for that code. Replaced the gas cap. Tool allowed me to clear the code (turn off the light). Allowed me to check to see if it all systems were ready for a smog check. I checked after I replaced the gas cap and turned off the light and it told me not ready. I drove for a trip (35 miles each way) and then checked the next morning; all systems ready .


Evap codes aren't hard to diagnose if the gas cap doesn't help. You just hook a smoke machine up to the fuel lines and you'll see the smoke escape where there's a leak. Any mechanic should have one. Takes about 15 minutes to find the leak. Not that big of a deal and you'll never notice any symptoms with the car other than a possible slight fuel smell.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

LAuberX said:


> It looks like a trip to the dealer is in order... this thread on a corolla forum describes it and has a link to the Toyota service bulletin (attached here also):
> 
> http://www.corolland.com/forums/index.php?/topic/25080-error-code-p0741-help/
> 
> where exactly do you live?


Good find with the TSB, but that's only for 2004's and 2005's. OP has a 2006.

Going to the dealer isn't the worst idea though. Let them diagnose. If it's anything too crazy to fix, just pick the car up and bring it somewhere else.


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## LAuberX (Jun 3, 2014)

EcoboostMKS said:


> Good find with the TSB, but that's only for 2004's and 2005's. OP has a 2006.
> 
> Going to the dealer isn't the worst idea though. Let them diagnose. If it's anything too crazy to fix, just pick the car up and bring it somewhere else.


good catch... it has the cutoff vin number to verify. same code, usually same diagnostic procedure since it's the same make/model tho.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

LAuberX said:


> good catch... it has the cutoff vin number to verify. same code, usually same diagnostic procedure since it's the same make/model tho.


That TSB calls for almost 14 hours of work. I don't even want to know what the dealer would charge for that plus the parts. Looks like the whole transmission has to be taken apart.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

I'm actually dealing with the same issue for my car, so i know this problem very well. My torque converter is shot - been driving around with a bad one for about a month now. Having it replaced and the transmission rebuilt tomorrow. I had estimates for anywhere from $1800 to $4000 for the rebuild, but this is a different car. Mine is a lincoln mks. 

My car actually never even threw any codes. The symptoms were there and they were obvious though.


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## LAuberX (Jun 3, 2014)

It could be just a speed sensor (wrong number of teeth), that is only .5 labor hours.... plus diagnosis time.. 

My Camry had a torque converter shudder issue (no codes) the fix was a new torque converter, re-programming the ecu and adding magnets to the trans pan to catch any stray metal bits... but that was all covered by warranty as it was only two years old at the time.


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## EcoboostMKS (Nov 6, 2015)

LAuberX said:


> It could be just a speed sensor (wrong number of teeth), that is only .5 labor hours.... plus diagnosis time..
> 
> My Camry had a torque converter shudder issue (no codes) the fix was a new torque converter, re-programming the ecu and adding magnets to the trans pan to catch any stray metal bits... but that was all covered by warranty as it was only two years old at the time.


They didn't rebuild? Typically when a torque converter fails, it contaminates the whole transmissions with little metal shavings. If contaminated enough, the new torque converter or other parts in the tranmission will eventually just fail again. You can just do a torque converter, but it's risky. The much safer bet is with a full rebuild. Make sure the whole thing is nice and clean with the new parts, so you're not dealing with this same problem again in a year.


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## UberEricLong (Oct 28, 2015)

Change the trans fluid and filter.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...-transmission-fluid-strainer-replacement.html


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## rtaatl (Jul 3, 2014)

EcoboostMKS said:


> Good find with the TSB, but that's only for 2004's and 2005's. OP has a 2006.
> 
> Going to the dealer isn't the worst idea though. Let them diagnose. If it's anything too crazy to fix, just pick the car up and bring it somewhere else.


That's exactly how you do it...let the dealer give a detailed diagnosis, then take it to a 3rd party technician that's much cheaper to fix.


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## jade8 (May 4, 2016)

rtaatl said:


> That's exactly how you do it...let the dealer give a detailed diagnosis, then take it to a 3rd party technician that's much cheaper to fix.


Thanks so much! The dealership said they would charge $120 for a diagnosis, which would go towards fixing the problem which I kind of think is a rip off. Aamco said they would only charge $75. So you still think I should go to the dealership?

I also do think I have to change the fluid. Would it cost a lot for someone else to do it? I'm not good with cars


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## LAuberX (Jun 3, 2014)

EcoboostMKS said:


> They didn't rebuild? Typically when a torque converter fails, it contaminates the whole transmissions with little metal shavings. If contaminated enough, the new torque converter or other parts in the tranmission will eventually just fail again. You can just do a torque converter, but it's risky. The much safer bet is with a full rebuild. Make sure the whole thing is nice and clean with the new parts, so you're not dealing with this same problem again in a year.


no "rebuild" or in Toyota's case, no exchange transmission. They did extend the warranty on the trans to 150,000 miles because of this issue.

A torque converter "shudder" is the lock up clutch engaging/disengaging, more like brake dust than metal shavings in my experience... It can clog passages/valves or even the trans cooler if it is of the "internal" fin variety... the trans already had a few magnets that were clean... the t.s.b. just adds some more.


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## LAuberX (Jun 3, 2014)

jade8 said:


> Thanks so much! The dealership said they would charge $120 for a diagnosis, which would go towards fixing the problem which I kind of think is a rip off. Aamco said they would only charge $75. So you still think I should go to the dealership?
> 
> I also do think I have to change the fluid. Would it cost a lot for someone else to do it? I'm not good with cars


In my experience Aamco has zero value. It is a franchise business that is sales based... and they pay a percentage to the home office.
Toyota Dealers may cost more, but they have the tools and information to actually fix the car right. If the computer needs to be re-programmed, the Dealer can do it... Aamco? doubtful. At the end of the day I would bet Toyota will cost less and actually find the problem faster.


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## A Morgan (Apr 4, 2016)

jade8 said:


> Thanks so much! The dealership said they would charge $120 for a diagnosis, which would go towards fixing the problem which I kind of think is a rip off. Aamco said they would only charge $75. So you still think I should go to the dealership?
> 
> I also do think I have to change the fluid. Would it cost a lot for someone else to do it? I'm not good with cars


Tell Aamco that you looked on the internet and that dirty trans fluid is a common cause for tripping that code. Ask them if the $75 covers a transmission fluid change with a new filter screen. Also ask if that is all the fluid including the cooler lines and torque converter or just what's in the pan because you would like to change as much as possible since it is so dirty. If so that's a good deal. The trans fluid alone is about $18 a gallon and I think the filter and gasket is about $15. Thinking it through I suspect they will charge you $50 for parts and $75 for the labor so my estimate is $125. Let me know how close I am. Thanks. Edit: Ask the dealer the same questions as my estimate seems close to their price. I also agree with LAuberX in that of the two choices, I would select the Toyota dealer.


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## rtaatl (Jul 3, 2014)

jade8 said:


> Thanks so much! The dealership said they would charge $120 for a diagnosis, which would go towards fixing the problem which I kind of think is a rip off. Aamco said they would only charge $75. So you still think I should go to the dealership?
> 
> I also do think I have to change the fluid. Would it cost a lot for someone else to do it? I'm not good with cars


It's not really a rip off when you think about it since you'll get the $120 credit towards parts and labor. They're doing this for the very reason we said about people going to dealers for diagnosis, then going somewhere else for repairs. Weigh your options out. Sometimes these dealers come down in price if they know you have options.


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## A Morgan (Apr 4, 2016)

jade8 said:


> just came on. Can I still drive for Uber or Lyft? Please help


Hey jade8, what's up? What ever happened with your transmission? Hopefully fixed with a new screen and new fluid.


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