# 188k 08 Nissan Altima (Engine Bay Picture)



## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

Getting some ideas in what else to do at 188k 08 Nissan Altima - If nothing else I have learned quite a bit about cars (when I really didn't have a clue) driving for U/L so there is that lol

Thanks!

Has new struts
New Engine coils
New Oil gasket (which was causing oil to enter coil number 1
New One (of three) mount replaced for engine, top left (called dog bone lol)
New wheel bearings
New door actuator
New door handle
New tires
New enough air filters - cabin and engine
New breaks and new rotors
Battery 6 months old

What is getting replaced this week
NEW positive connector to battery due to corrosion
New Power Steering pressure switch (causing leak)

--

Status
Sepitine belt is a few years old
Timing belt (if it has one) has NEVER been changed
I learned that flushing fluids in a vehicle this old is damaging...but curious anyones imput on fluids
Transmission works great or that is starts and drives with zero issues

One good thing about driving cars this old is I am getting parts at like 20% original cost, just because I believe they want to clear their stock of old crap...just guessing but it sure helps.


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## losiglow (Dec 4, 2018)

Wow. That's excellent for a Nissan. They're not like they used to be since Renault purchased them...

Are you asking if you should sell/upgrade? From a financial perspective, especially if doing U/L, I'd just keep on trucking with what you have. 

As far as fluids, doing a drain and refill of the transmission fluid may be a good idea. However, if you've had the car for a really long time and have never done it, then leave it alone. Damage is already done and changing it will just remove the friction material floating around in the transmission which will likely cause slipping. If you've never changed the ATF, shame on you.


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

losiglow said:


> Wow. That's excellent for a Nissan. They're not like they used to be since Renault purchased them...
> 
> Are you asking if you should sell/upgrade? From a financial perspective, especially if doing U/L, I'd just keep on trucking with what you have.
> 
> As far as fluids, doing a drain and refill of the transmission fluid may be a good idea. However, if you've had the car for a really long time and have never done it, then leave it alone. Damage is already done and changing it will just remove the friction material floating around in the transmission which will likely cause slipping. If you've never changed the ATF, shame on you.


Thanks for reply! Yes I have heard Nissan went downhill after some change, so that's what it was Renault...interesting.

I am looking to see what else I may need to do to try one last push with this thing during the busy fall times where there is actually a chance to make some profit..even at these rates due to the insane amount of tourism, trying to get this old bird in the best shape possible if I decide to drive during the tourist season come September - October Thanks!

That and just generally like ideas what to do or not for my next car which will NOT be used for rideshare lol and also perhaps other drivers can learn a few things about their own engine by replies and seeing this thread and possibly know what to expect to happen over time.


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## losiglow (Dec 4, 2018)

I'd probably just continue to do general maintenance like oil changes. If you're planning on getting rid of it in the next year, I wouldn't sink much money into it. Especially if it seems to be running fine. 

As far as what to do with your next car - I'd keep up on the transmission fluid changes. A drain/refill is usually pretty easy and cheap if you're interested in learning how to do it. YouTube is your friend there. If you're not interested in DIY, mechanics usually charge about double what an oil change would cost. I do mine about every 15K miles but every 30K miles is fine. People neglect their transmission but statistically, more transmissions fail than engines in modern cars - and they're just as expensive to replace. Yet people don't pay attention to them until it's too late. Like engine oil, keeping the transmission fluid clean is the best thing you can do for it. For engine oil, I'd use synthetic. Even the cheapo Walmart brand synthetic (Supertech) oil is fine. Use a good filter like WIX or Mobil1. Stay away from FRAM and STP.

I'm a gearhead so I do all sorts of extra crap that I probably wouldn't recommend unless you're mechanically inclined. The old saying "if it ain't broken, don't fix it" applies here. However, changing spark plugs, cleaning sensors and other electronic contacts, cleaning battery terminals, replacing old suspension parts and doing an occasional carbon cleaning of the valves and pistons can go a long way in keeping the car feeling new. But again, unless you're somewhat mechanically inclined and want to learn that stuff, I'd probably leave it alone unless you actually experience a problem. There's a big difference between doing work to keep the car feeling new and just fixing things when something goes wrong.


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## charmer37 (Nov 18, 2016)

I just do deliveries but I have a 2006 Infiniti G35X, Good car with AWD and reliable. The only work I had to do was front end, Replace the radiator , Tires, Brakes, Replace a cam sensor and fluid changes. I do drain and fills for the transmission and I have 221,000 miles, Nissan/Infiniti made a strong 3.5 engine for this model....Keep up the maintenance as she will keep going?


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## Diamondraider (Mar 13, 2017)

losiglow said:


> I'd probably just continue to do general maintenance like oil changes. If you're planning on getting rid of it in the next year, I wouldn't sink much money into it. Especially if it seems to be running fine.
> 
> As far as what to do with your next car - I'd keep up on the transmission fluid changes. A drain/refill is usually pretty easy and cheap if you're interested in learning how to do it. YouTube is your friend there. If you're not interested in DIY, mechanics usually charge about double what an oil change would cost. I do mine about every 15K miles but every 30K miles is fine. People neglect their transmission but statistically, more transmissions fail than engines in modern cars - and they're just as expensive to replace. Yet people don't pay attention to them until it's too late. Like engine oil, keeping the transmission fluid clean is the best thing you can do for it. For engine oil, I'd use synthetic. Even the cheapo Walmart brand synthetic (Supertech) oil is fine. Use a good filter like WIX or Mobil1. Stay away from FRAM and STP.
> 
> I'm a gearhead so I do all sorts of extra crap that I probably wouldn't recommend unless you're mechanically inclined. The old saying "if it ain't broken, don't fix it" applies here. However, changing spark plugs, cleaning sensors and other electronic contacts, cleaning battery terminals, replacing old suspension parts and doing an occasional carbon cleaning of the valves and pistons can go a long way in keeping the car feeling new. But again, unless you're somewhat mechanically inclined and want to learn that stuff, I'd probably leave it alone unless you actually experience a problem. There's a big difference between doing work to keep the car feeling new and just fixing things when something goes wrong.


Maybe you can help with an Altima question (2016)

When I start the vehicle cold, I get a whiny sound that increases with rpm's

Jiffy lube told me all fluids look good, but I just found out JL can't even check my CVT transmission fluid.

Thoughts?


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## losiglow (Dec 4, 2018)

The 3.5L was a good engine. He has the 2.5L 4-cylinder based on the photo of the engine bay. I'm surprised he got 188K out of that engine. It was kind of a piece of crap. It was notorious for oil consumption and catalytic converter issues.

I'd check the Nissan forums for mechanical questions. But as a start, does the sound increase only when the car is moving or does it do it even when stopped or in park? If it does it when stopped, it could be the serpentine belt. If it's when it's moving, it could be quite a few things. I'd first check the belt by adding a few drops of water on the belt while the engine is running. Then rev it up a bit. If the sound goes away, it's the belt. It will come right back of course, since the water only acts as a very short term lubricant. You can attempt to use some belt conditioner or replace it with a Goodyear Gatorback belt which is designed to eliminate belt noise.


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

losiglow said:


> The 3.5L was a good engine. He has the 2.5L 4-cylinder based on the photo of the engine bay. I'm surprised he got 188K out of that engine. It was kind of a piece of crap. It was notorious for oil consumption and catalytic converter issues.
> 
> I'd check the Nissan forums for mechanical questions. But as a start, does the sound increase only when the car is moving or does it do it even when stopped or in park? If it does it when stopped, it could be the serpentine belt. If it's when it's moving, it could be quite a few things. I'd first check the belt by adding a few drops of water on the belt while the engine is running. Then rev it up a bit. If the sound goes away, it's the belt. It will come right back of course, since the water only acts as a very short term lubricant. You can attempt to use some belt conditioner or replace it with a Goodyear Gatorback belt which is designed to eliminate belt noise.


Not to alter the subject on Altima but I owned a Toyota 4-runner and the thing was absolutely amazing, basically bulletproof..would you say Toyota still holds true to that quality standard? If not Toyota what's another brand that is "Solid" in your opinion, not to take up too much of your time but since your offering advice! I'll def ask!:smiles:

Thanks and editing title of thread to Engine bay pic by your reply!


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## amazinghl (Oct 31, 2018)

The 2.5L uses timing chain, not belt. Keep you the oil lever and you should be fine, until it makes noises then get it checked out ASAP.
Change the transmission fluid. 
Change the coolant.
Change the oil.
Change the air filter.
Change the cabin filter.
Clean your corroded battery terminal or change it.


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

amazinghl said:


> The 2.5L uses timing chain, not belt. Keep you the oil lever and you should be fine, until it makes noises then get it checked out ASAP.
> Change the transmission fluid.
> Change the coolant.
> Change the oil.
> ...


Yes changing the positive terminal this week! Awesome reply about timing chain..thanks man, some reason I overheard in past I don't have a timing belt so that makes sense! I keep hearing that changing transmission fluid this late in the game does more hard than good so I'm leaving it be until it's ready for junkyard lol. Not sure about coolant? I think that sounds like a great idea...filters changed..not sure if I should change breake fluid or not or leave be...thanks!


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## amazinghl (Oct 31, 2018)

Jay Dean said:


> I keep hearing that changing transmission fluid this late in the game does more hard than good so I'm leaving it be until it's ready for junkyard lol.


Well, if the transmission is on its last leg, it'll die regardless what fluid is in it. If the transmission is healthy, changing the fluid can only extend its life. Never flush, just drain and fill.


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

amazinghl said:


> Well, if the transmission is on its last leg, it'll die regardless what fluid is in it. If the transmission is healthy, changing the fluid can only extend its life. Never flush, just drain and fill.


Awesome I never knew, I suppose I thought a flush was doing that...a flush moves fluids around within the transmission and a drain and fill replaces? I know sounds like a stupid question but I really do not know. I have my master mechanic friend but he is too busy and I don't have all these questions ready to go, this thread is perfect to understanding without rushing for advice, thank you


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## amazinghl (Oct 31, 2018)

Brake fluid is cheap, if you know how to bleed, change it.


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

amazinghl said:


> Brake fluid is cheap, if you know how to bleed, change it.


I can change my breaks (finally learned on own) don't know how to bleed them, I can pay my mechanic friend to do it, just need to know if it is needed...or should fluid be changed etc at 188k I know I never changed the fluid myself or ever paid anyone to do it, ever lol


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## Amsoil Uber Connect (Jan 14, 2015)

How about if just Clean the engine bay.

Spray a little chain lube on the Batt terminals prevents oxidation.

Find a Consumer Reports Used car buying guide. Very telling. 

Thanks about Renault buying Nissan. 

Plus 1 on, Wix X/P filters. Amsoil's alternative


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## amazinghl (Oct 31, 2018)

Jay Dean said:


> I can change my breaks (finally learned on own) don't know how to bleed them, I can pay my mechanic friend to do it, just need to know if it is needed...or should fluid be changed etc at 188k I know I never changed the fluid myself or ever paid anyone to do it, ever lol


https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+bleed+brakes


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

Amsoil Uber Connect said:


> How about if just Clean the engine bay.


I used to use simple green and clean my engine which works great until I tried it on this chicks car I was dating and had to let it dry for 14 HOURS in the 90s...so not going threre again, ever LOL


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## Toocutetofail (Sep 14, 2018)

2006 honda civic... :cryin:

transmission
catalytic converter
alternator
cv joint
struts, shocks
water pump
timing chain kit
ac compressor
replaced rear bench seat after someone had diahria
ball joints

and brakes pads, rotors, fluids
lots of used tires @ $20 installed

best thing about this car, I can park it anywhere. With my new 2019 Hybrid Toyota Camry I won't even let my dirty, filthy, smelly kids, husband in the car from the park. lol.


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## Amsoil Uber Connect (Jan 14, 2015)

amazinghl said:


> Well, if the transmission is on its last leg, it'll die regardless what fluid is in it. If the transmission is healthy, changing the fluid can only extend its life. Never flush, just drain and fill.


Drain and fill is just the half of it. You leave the other half of it in the converter.

A complete change is undoing the line to the Radiator. I'm not going into the whole procedure here.

Simple Green is not good. As it's Caustic. 1. able to burn or corrode organic tissue by chemical action.


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

Toocutetofail said:


> 2006 honda civic... :cryin:
> 
> transmission
> catalytic converter
> ...


Hey, you learned about all this through your 06 Honda Civic? Sounds like you run a tight ship with that Toyota now LOL...I miss my Toyota 4-Runner


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## Amsoil Uber Connect (Jan 14, 2015)

Here is a trick you can do with the front brake pads if your really on the cheap.

Say you get 60k on them before metal to metal. The piston side of the caliper always wares out sooner. So at 30k pull them out and switch sides. You'll get another 10-20k out of them. And bend the metal tabs further back too. But not to far.

If they squeak, Camfer the leading edge of the pad at 45 degrees. I learned this back in the mid 70's, now a days, ( it only took them 40 years to come up with this ) most come with camfers make into them. But there a lot bigger than what they need to be.


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## Jerseyguy72 (Aug 15, 2016)

Wow, I can't believe it has that many miles and is still going! I just got rid of a Nissan, it was the first and last Nissan I'll ever own. The thing was nothing but a money pit. 
Keep it going as long as you can. 
Good luck with it!


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

Jerseyguy72 said:


> Wow, I can't believe it has that many miles and is still going! I just got rid of a Nissan, it was the first and last Nissan I'll ever own. The thing was nothing but a money pit.
> Keep it going as long as you can.
> Good luck with it!


What was year and make/model? Thanks for reply...I ran into this video about nissans, and ffs


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## Iann (Oct 17, 2017)

Diamondraider said:


> Maybe you can help with an Altima question (2016)
> 
> When I start the vehicle cold, I get a whiny sound that increases with rpm's
> 
> ...


Belt tensioner will make that noise. 
So will a failing water pump pulley. Since it's a Nissan in guessing the water pump pulley bearings are shot.


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## TomTheAnt (Jan 1, 2019)

Jay Dean said:


> Getting some ideas in what else to do at 188k 08 Nissan Altima


:whistling:


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## 1974toyota (Jan 5, 2018)

Jay Dean said:


> View attachment 334460
> 
> 
> Getting some ideas in what else to do at 188k 08 Nissan Altima - If nothing else I have learned quite a bit about cars (when I really didn't have a clue) driving for U/L so there is that lol
> ...


good report,good info, and just remember Uber loves you,jmo



TomTheAnt said:


> :whistling:


ROFLMAO


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

1974toyota said:


> good report,good info, and just remember Uber loves you,jmo
> 
> 
> ROFLMAO


Looking for one last tourist wave to make bucks lol but even with this pos it sounds silly, thank god I'm not stupid enough to use a full size truck LOL


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## 1974toyota (Jan 5, 2018)

Amsoil Uber Connect said:


> Here is a trick you can do with the front brake pads if your really on the cheap.
> 
> Say you get 60k on them before metal to metal. The piston side of the caliper always wares out sooner. So at 30k pull them out and switch sides. You'll get another 10-20k out of them. And bend the metal tabs further back too. But not to far.
> 
> If they squeak, Camfer the leading edge of the pad at 45 degrees. I learned this back in the mid 70's, now a days, ( it only took them 40 years to come up with this ) most come with camfers make into them. But there a lot bigger than what they need to be.


ROFLMAO, if ya gonna go to all that trouble just replace the pads,seriously, replace the pads,jmo


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

1974toyota said:


> ROFLMAO, if ya gonna go to all that trouble just replace the pads,seriously, replace the pads,jmo


This isn't 2014 rates lol, sometimes you gotta deal with the rate cuts lol


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## 1974toyota (Jan 5, 2018)

Jay Dean said:


> Looking for one last tourist wave to make bucks lol but even with this pos it sounds silly, thank god I'm not stupid enough to use a full size truck LOL


my brothers 2007 nissan altima ****** went at 55K was under warranty, other than that, no major issues,jmo


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

1974toyota said:


> my brothers 2007 nissan altima @@@@@@ went at 55K was under warranty, other than that, no major issues,jmo


What word did you use lol


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## 1974toyota (Jan 5, 2018)

Jay Dean said:


> What word did you use lol


unreal, used [email protected], instead of transmission,wow


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## nosurgenodrive (May 13, 2019)

Jay Dean said:


> View attachment 334460
> 
> 
> Getting some ideas in what else to do at 188k 08 Nissan Altima - If nothing else I have learned quite a bit about cars (when I really didn't have a clue) driving for U/L so there is that lol
> ...


A clean engine bay is a happy engine bay. Just my two cents.


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

nosurgenodrive said:


> A clean engine bay is a happy engine bay. Just my two cents.


Yeah I gave up cleaning engines years ago (see previous post) and sure can't afford paying someone being an Uber driver lol Sometimes looking good doesn't make a flip of difference (especially under hood), and being a min wage at best Uber driver is proof of that lol


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## losiglow (Dec 4, 2018)

Engine bay cleanliness is overrated, though I'm a bit picky and still keep mine pretty clean.

Either way, keep your AC compressor and condenser clean. The condenser is in front of the radiator. If the compressor gets caked in grease and dirt it can overheat. And a dirty condenser will result in insufficient cooling of the refrigerant which can result in a less-cold AC and excess strain on the compressor.


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## Fozzie (Aug 11, 2018)

Damnit! You guys have me all paranoid now about my 2016 Altima. I still have 8 more payments til payoff, then I guess it'll be time to flip it for something newer... In the year and a half I've owned it, I've had zero mechanical problems, but do you guys think I should throw some money at it for transmission flush?


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## lyft_rat (Jul 1, 2019)

Why not drive it until repairs start to be an appreciable fraction of depreciation? Unless you want newer for some other reason. Depreciation can really cut into rideshare profit.


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## Amos69 (May 17, 2019)

Diamondraider said:


> Maybe you can help with an Altima question (2016)
> 
> When I start the vehicle cold, I get a whiny sound that increases with rpm's
> 
> ...


Belt slippage sounds like your culprit.



lyft_rat said:


> Why not drive it until repairs start to be an appreciable fraction of depreciation? Unless you want newer for some other reason. Depreciation can really cut into rideshare profit.


I go the other route. I sell before depreciation hits critical mass. No repairs not under warrantee and still appreciable value left for resale.


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

losiglow said:


> Wow. That's excellent for a Nissan. They're not like they used to be since Renault purchased them...
> 
> Are you asking if you should sell/upgrade? From a financial perspective, especially if doing U/L, I'd just keep on trucking with what you have.
> 
> As far as fluids, doing a drain and refill of the transmission fluid may be a good idea. However, if you've had the car for a really long time and have never done it, then leave it alone. Damage is already done and changing it will just remove the friction material floating around in the transmission which will likely cause slipping. If you've never changed the ATF, shame on you.


Hey there I have heard for years to stay away from Penzoil...something like it's recycled oil or some bs, and to only use Castrol or Havoline...what's your take on that?

And that if you ever go synthetic you STAY with synthetic for the remainder of oil changes in future. I can google more about this but curious on your take on oil in general. Thanks!


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## nosurgenodrive (May 13, 2019)

Amsoil Uber Connect said:


> Here is a trick you can do with the front brake pads if your really on the cheap.
> 
> Say you get 60k on them before metal to metal. The piston side of the caliper always wares out sooner. So at 30k pull them out and switch sides. You'll get another 10-20k out of them. And bend the metal tabs further back too. But not to far.
> 
> If they squeak, Camfer the leading edge of the pad at 45 degrees. I learned this back in the mid 70's, now a days, ( it only took them 40 years to come up with this ) most come with camfers make into them. But there a lot bigger than what they need to be.


Don't ever do this. Just spend the money for brake pads, especially with unsuspecting pax in your car.



Jay Dean said:


> Yeah I gave up cleaning engines years ago (see previous post) and sure can't afford paying someone being an Uber driver lol Sometimes looking good doesn't make a flip of difference (especially under hood), and being a min wage at best Uber driver is proof of that lol


Just get a rag and wipe it down. My car wash provides free rags. Engine bay gets a wipe down twice a month.


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## goneubering (Aug 17, 2017)

Jay Dean said:


> Not to alter the subject on Altima but I owned a Toyota 4-runner and the thing was absolutely amazing, basically bulletproof..would you say Toyota still holds true to that quality standard? If not Toyota what's another brand that is "Solid" in your opinion, not to take up too much of your time but since your offering advice! I'll def ask!:smiles:
> 
> Thanks and editing title of thread to Engine bay pic by your reply!


My neighbor was a mechanic. He drove a Toyota pickup. He said the two most reliable cars are Toyotas and Hondas. I've never owned a Toyota but I've had good results with Hondas.


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## amazinghl (Oct 31, 2018)

Fozzie said:


> Damnit! You guys have me all paranoid now about my 2016 Altima. I still have 8 more payments til payoff, then I guess it'll be time to flip it for something newer... In the year and a half I've owned it, I've had zero mechanical problems, but do you guys think I should throw some money at it for transmission flush?
> 
> View attachment 334591


Do what the Nissan recommends and replace that CVT fluid every 60k. Use Nissan CVT fluid only.

http://www.nissantechnicianinfo.mobi/htmlversions/2015_CVT_Special/Service_Tips.html


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## 1974toyota (Jan 5, 2018)

Jay Dean said:


> Hey there I have heard for years to stay away from Penzoil...something like it's recycled oil or some bs, and to only use Castrol or Havoline...what's your take on that?
> 
> And that if you ever go synthetic you STAY with synthetic for the remainder of oil changes in future. I can google more about this but curious on your take on oil in general. Thanks!


i use valvoline oil changes, no problems,so far,jmo


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## OldBay (Apr 1, 2019)

Jay Dean said:


> View attachment 334460
> 
> 
> Getting some ideas in what else to do at 188k 08 Nissan Altima - If nothing else I have learned quite a bit about cars (when I really didn't have a clue) driving for U/L so there is that lol
> ...


Timing belt and water pump should be high priority.



losiglow said:


> The 3.5L was a good engine. He has the 2.5L 4-cylinder based on the photo of the engine bay. I'm surprised he got 188K out of that engine. It was kind of a piece of crap. It was notorious for oil consumption and catalytic converter issues.
> 
> I'd check the Nissan forums for mechanical questions. But as a start, does the sound increase only when the car is moving or does it do it even when stopped or in park? If it does it when stopped, it could be the serpentine belt. If it's when it's moving, it could be quite a few things. I'd first check the belt by adding a few drops of water on the belt while the engine is running. Then rev it up a bit. If the sound goes away, it's the belt. It will come right back of course, since the water only acts as a very short term lubricant. You can attempt to use some belt conditioner or replace it with a Goodyear Gatorback belt which is designed to eliminate belt noise.


This is true, to an extent. On my car I was getting belt whine, but it was because the water pump bearings were failing and the belt alignment was off because of that. Spraying the belt made it go away, but replacing the water pump was the fix.

Visual inspection of the belt will show if it needs to be replaced. The whine could be caused by failing bearings/pulleys of anything driven by the belt.



goneubering said:


> My neighbor was a mechanic. He drove a Toyota pickup. He said the two most reliable cars are Toyotas and Hondas. I've never owned a Toyota but I've had good results with Hondas.


In the 80s/90s asian cars were more reliable. American cars are right up there now. They all use parts sourced worldwide, its about engineering and manufacturing talent, and USA has those in spades.


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

OldBay said:


> I'm stealth.
> 
> 
> Only way to make more money is if there are less drivers.
> ...





OldBay said:


> Timing belt and water pump should be high priority.
> 
> 
> This is true, to an extent. On my car I was getting belt whine, but it was because the water pump bearings were failing and the belt alignment was off because of that. Spraying the belt made it go away, but replacing the water pump was the fix.
> ...


Hey, do you think I should change spark plugs as preventative maintenance or you think they will be all good until the car takes a dump with transmission/engine etc?
Definitely trying to avoid being stranded on the side of the road, like I did when one of my Engine Coils went out...nothing pisses me off more than being stranded on side of road waiting on a tow truck...

Thanks!


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## TomTheAnt (Jan 1, 2019)

Jay Dean said:


> Hey, do you think I should change spark plugs as preventative maintenance or you think they will be all good until the car takes a dump with transmission/engine etc?


Four spark plugs are, what, 20 bucks? And takes maybe 20-30 minutes to do at a leisurely pace? If you have never changed them, and even if they were changed around 100K, it'd be stupid not to change them. You'll most likely save that 20 bucks in improved mpg before the ****** takes a dump.


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## Amsoil Uber Connect (Jan 14, 2015)

OldBay said:


> In the 80s/90s asian cars were more reliable. American cars are right up there now. They all use parts sourced worldwide, its about engineering and manufacturing talent, and USA has those in spades.


Lmao ! Tell that to the guys who own Dodge Chrysler Jeep. Who have Hemi motors that have lifter failures with less than 100k !. that take out the cam shaft too. It's a $5,000 fix at the dealer. And only to be put on hold because they can not keep enough lifters in stock, back order everywhere.

Not only that ! See the consumer reports used car car buying guide. On them. All on the do not buy list ! Not because of the lifter isuse.

Yes my 89 Accords 241,000 totaled then 508,000 and 380,000K


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

Thanks for all replies! So I am going to look into timing chain kit $87, Water pump $18, Spark plugs 70-90, bleed breaks and fluid Will find cost at auto zone, And I think that should keep this ol hooptie going to 200K+ in theory...if the ****** or the engine doesnt check out to the junkyard hotel lol. Pay my mechanic friend a fair price and should be good to go! Thanks y'all, been very helpful with this thread.


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## 1974toyota (Jan 5, 2018)

OldBay said:


> Timing belt and water pump should be high priority.
> 
> 
> This is true, to an extent. On my car I was getting belt whine, but it was because the water pump bearings were failing and the belt alignment was off because of that. Spraying the belt made it go away, but replacing the water pump was the fix.
> ...


american cars are up there????????????????????? ROFLMAO, you drank the cool aide,jmo


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

1974toyota said:


> american cars are up there????????????????????? ROFLMAO, you drank the cool aide,jmo


They are much better, but yeah I wouldn't ever think an American car could ever touch a Toyota's awesomeness...not to get political, but when Obama did the bailout for American cars, they did up their game quite a bit (after he basically said, heres money, make a better car), they did it because they had to after the bailouts.



TomTheAnt said:


> Four spark plugs are, what, 20 bucks? And takes maybe 20-30 minutes to do at a leisurely pace? If you have never changed them, and even if they were changed around 100K, it'd be stupid not to change them. You'll most likely save that 20 bucks in improved mpg before the @@@@@@ takes a dump.


Thanks, I never knew spark plugs helped with gas mileage, no sarcasm, thanks man ?


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## OldBay (Apr 1, 2019)

Jay Dean said:


> Hey, do you think I should change spark plugs as preventative maintenance or you think they will be all good until the car takes a dump with transmission/engine etc?
> Definitely trying to avoid being stranded on the side of the road, like I did when one of my Engine Coils went out...nothing pisses me off more than being stranded on side of road waiting on a tow truck...
> 
> Thanks!


The water pump is the bigger concern.

If you are on original water pump it will eventually leak and that could seize your engine.

There is no reason the car can't get 250K


1974toyota said:


> american cars are up there????????????????????? ROFLMAO, you drank the cool aide,jmo


You are living in the past.
American vs. Foreign.


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## BCS DRIVER (Oct 25, 2018)

Diamondraider said:


> Maybe you can help with an Altima question (2016)
> 
> When I start the vehicle cold, I get a whiny sound that increases with rpm's
> 
> ...





Iann said:


> Belt tensioner will make that noise.
> So will a failing water pump pulley. Since it's a Nissan in guessing the water pump pulley bearings are shot.


As Iann said and I'll add to, anything driven be the serpentine belt can be causing that whine. To isolate the culprit there's an old mechanics trick to do that. Invest in a really long screwdriver, 18" or 24". With the engine running and making the noise very carefully and staying away from the belt place the tip of the screwdriver on each part or the bracket for that part that's belt driven. Put your ear on the butt end of the screwdriver. Guarantee you the problem part will scream in your ear.


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## Amsoil Uber Connect (Jan 14, 2015)

Just spray some chain lube on it while its running, not much, and your Golden. :biggrin:


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## Diamondraider (Mar 13, 2017)

BCS DRIVER said:


> As Iann said and I'll add to, anything driven be the serpentine belt can be causing that whine. To isolate the culprit there's an old mechanics trick to do that. Invest in a really long screwdriver, 18" or 24". With the engine running and making the noise very carefully and staying away from the belt place the tip of the screwdriver on each part or the bracket for that part that's belt driven. Put your ear on the butt end of the screwdriver. Guarantee you the problem part will scream in your ear.


Dealer told me my Tran fluid is full and not degraded. 
Mechanic said the pump in the cvt is failing. $4k for a new cvt.

The timing of this is devastating


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## 1974toyota (Jan 5, 2018)

Diamondraider said:


> Dealer told me my Tran fluid is full and not degraded.
> Mechanic said the pump in the cvt is failing. $4k for a new cvt.
> 
> The timing of this is devastating


ouch$$


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

Diamondraider said:


> Dealer told me my Tran fluid is full and not degraded.
> Mechanic said the pump in the cvt is failing. $4k for a new cvt.
> 
> The timing of this is devastating


Is a CTV more or less costly than a Transmission and if you don't mind me asking, is it one part that does all...and what is failing on it. Thanks


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## losiglow (Dec 4, 2018)

Jay Dean said:


> Hey there I have heard for years to stay away from Penzoil...something like it's recycled oil or some bs, and to only use Castrol or Havoline...what's your take on that?
> 
> And that if you ever go synthetic you STAY with synthetic for the remainder of oil changes in future. I can google more about this but curious on your take on oil in general. Thanks!


I haven't heard that about Pennzoil. I use Pennzoil Ultra-Platinum and have had good results from it. Started using it at 106K. Now at 220K and I don't burn a drop of oil. Took the valve covers off to adjust the valves (Honda's have mechanical valves, not hydraulic like most cars) and the valve train was shiny clean.

Pennzoil synthetics are derived from natural gas, not crude oil. And Pennzoil platinum / ultra platinum scores pretty high in the bearing wear and evaporation tests.

Any synthetic is fine for most mass-produced passenger vehicles though. Mobil 1 is pretty cheap at Walmart and is also good. Pennzoil UP is kind of overkill for most regular consumer vehicles but U/L tends to torture engines. All that stop and go for hours on end....



Fozzie said:


> Damnit! You guys have me all paranoid now about my 2016 Altima. I still have 8 more payments til payoff, then I guess it'll be time to flip it for something newer... In the year and a half I've owned it, I've had zero mechanical problems, but do you guys think I should throw some money at it for transmission flush?
> 
> View attachment 334591


I wouldn't be overly worried. It's not as if Nissan is complete trash or something. Many mechanics don't speak highly of them but they're actually a pretty good car for the money. They're one of those "no problem getting 100K+ miles out of one but don't expect an easy 200K+ miles without something major going wrong" cars. Although I bet you could go that long without any major repairs if you took good care of it. But yes, I'd consider a drain/refill of the ATF. I don't know much about Nissan maintenance but most vehicles don't do transmission fluid flushes anymore, unless it's done with specialized equipment from the dealer or mechanics that feed new fluid while the old is removed.


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## TomTheAnt (Jan 1, 2019)

For anything oil related, just go over to https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/. You'll get to read anything and everything about oil, and then some.


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## losiglow (Dec 4, 2018)

Yup. A whole forum dedicated to oil :biggrin: I find that kind of funny. A lot of information is still anecdotal but there's definitely some guys on there that know their stuff. I've taken some knowledge from there and it's worked out quite well for me.


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

TomTheAnt said:


> For anything oil related, just go over to https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/. You'll get to read anything and everything about oil, and then some.


Without googling and the short answer ...once you go synthetic you have to stay synthetic right?


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## TomTheAnt (Jan 1, 2019)

losiglow said:


> Yup. A whole forum dedicated to oil :biggrin: I find that kind of funny. A lot of information is still anecdotal but there's definitely some guys on there that know their stuff. I've taken some knowledge from there and it's worked out quite well for me.


Definitely take some of the "info" and "facts" with a grain of salt.


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## losiglow (Dec 4, 2018)

Jay Dean said:


> Without googling and the short answer ...once you go synthetic you have to stay synthetic right?


Common misconception. That may have been the case at one time but it no longer is. You can switch between the two, no problems. But synthetic is so much cheaper than it used to be that there's really no reason not to use it if you do it yourself. The kicker is when a shop like Jiffy Lube does it. They'll charge you $79 at least. But DIY, you can get a 1 gallon jug of Mobil 1 at Walmart for like, $21. A good Mobil 1 filter is $10. $31 for a great quality oil that's superior to conventional.

But even conventional oil is much better than it used to be. The important thing is to change it on time. Which oil you use is a secondary concern.


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

losiglow said:


> Common misconception. That may have been the case at one time but it no longer is. You can switch between the two, no problems. But synthetic is so much cheaper than it used to be that there's really no reason not to use it if you do it yourself. The kicker is when a shop like Jiffy Lube does it. They'll charge you $79 at least. But DIY, you can get a 1 gallon jug of Mobil 1 at Walmart for like, $21. A good Mobil 1 filter is $10. $31 for a great quality oil that's superior to conventional.
> 
> But even conventional oil is much better than it used to be. The important thing is to change it on time. Which oil you use is a secondary concern.


Great stuff


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## TomTheAnt (Jan 1, 2019)

losiglow said:


> But even conventional oil is much better than it used to be. The important thing is to change it on time. Which oil you use is a secondary concern.


Very well said. :thumbup:


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

losiglow said:


> Common misconception. That may have been the case at one time but it no longer is. You can switch between the two, no problems. But synthetic is so much cheaper than it used to be that there's really no reason not to use it if you do it yourself. The kicker is when a shop like Jiffy Lube does it. They'll charge you $79 at least. But DIY, you can get a 1 gallon jug of Mobil 1 at Walmart for like, $21. A good Mobil 1 filter is $10. $31 for a great quality oil that's superior to conventional.
> 
> But even conventional oil is much better than it used to be. The important thing is to change it on time. Which oil you use is a secondary concern.


I have been a stickler on oil changes, ALWAYS change oil, hell I drive to North Austin to budget lube just because those boys will do a GREAT job, and I tip them well for being badasses. Jiffy lube is the absolute worst. I could put a day old air filter in the car and they would say it needs to be changed RIGHT away lol


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## Amsoil Uber Connect (Jan 14, 2015)

The key thing is, as Amsoil says, " In mechanically Sound engines. "

Oil leaks, and valve seals included.

+1 vvv


losiglow said:


> Common misconception. That may have been the case at one time but it no longer is. You can switch between the two, no problems. But synthetic is so much cheaper than it used to be that there's really no reason not to use it if you do it yourself. The kicker is when a shop like Jiffy Lube does it. They'll charge you $79 at least. But DIY, you can get a 1 gallon jug of Mobil 1 at Walmart for like, $21. A good Mobil 1 filter is $10. $31 for a great quality oil that's superior to conventional.
> 
> But even conventional oil is much better than it used to be. The important thing is to change it on time. Which oil you use is a secondary concern.


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

Amsoil Uber Connect said:


> The key thing is, as Amsoil says, " In mechanically Sound engines. "
> 
> Oil leaks, and valve seals included.
> 
> +1 vvv


I like the vibe, but have no idea what you said, please explain!


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## Amsoil Uber Connect (Jan 14, 2015)

Hmm, well , say you took an engine out because you were thinking it needs to be rebuilt. There are several measurements to take / look at, to see if those measurements are still within manufacture specifications. If all the measurements are " within Specs." then you have a " Mechanically sound " motor. This also includes, leaking gaskets and valve seals. 

Generally speaking if the car is still passing a smog check it probably is fine. So don't go ahead and start taking apart your motor to find out. 

Blue/gray smoke out the tail pipe is a clue, Valve seals ? . Doing a Compression check is another and simple to do. Generally 160-180 psi + or - 20 psi between cylinders.

I see on Bob's site there is a section on By-Pass oil filters. Amsoil is the only one I know of. They filter down to .0005 an inch. The average human hair is .003 to give one an idea just how much finer a By-Pass filter will filter.

I finally found a place to install one on my car. I make the analogy that if one has a By-pass filter installed on there car you will literally ware out the rest of the car / truck before the motor. Altough you will have to change the valve cover gaskets and oil pan gasket somewhere around 200,000 miles. Sorry admins. I hope I'm not over stepping here.


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## 1974toyota (Jan 5, 2018)

Jay Dean said:


> Is a CTV more or less costly than a Transmission and if you don't mind me asking, is it one part that does all...and what is failing on it. Thanks


"why most CVT transmission cars are terrible?" scotty kilmer, google it?


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

1974toyota said:


> "why most CVT transmission cars are terrible?" scotty kilmer, google it?


Ok I am learning lol Jebus, this is all new to me


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## 1974toyota (Jan 5, 2018)

Jay Dean said:


> I like the vibe, but have no idea what you said, please explain!:smiles:


"Should you buy a CVT transmission car(how it works) scotty kilmer google it



Jay Dean said:


> Ok I am learning lol Jebus, this is all new to me :smiles:


no problem, have to learn some time,GL


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

1974toyota said:


> "Should you buy a CVT transmission car(how it works) scotty kilmer google it
> 
> 
> no problem, have to learn some time,GL


Trying to lol


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## losiglow (Dec 4, 2018)

CVT vs. conventional transmissions is a wide topic but suffice it to day, there are dependable CVT's out there - you just have to do a bit of homework on which vehicles are built with reliable ones. It seems there are a larger share of vehicles with CVT's that have problems than conventional automatics. 

As far as efficiency goes, CVT's are said to be quite good. But a lot of folks don't like how they function. They tend to stick within a narrower RPM band rather than the traditional revving from low to high RPM's prior to shifting, like a conventional automatic or manual transmission. I personally don't mind them but I don't think a CVT vehicle would be my first choice either.


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## B - uberlyftdriver (Jun 6, 2017)

Diamondraider said:


> Dealer told me my Tran fluid is full and not degraded.
> Mechanic said the pump in the cvt is failing. $4k for a new cvt.
> 
> The timing of this is devastating


dealers are full of Sh*t

the trans fluid can be changed and will more than likely fix the problem.
drain by dropping the belly pan 
new gasket

refill through transmission dipstick the same amount that came out

i have done this on audis, nissans and toyotas with "transmission problems" or noises


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## SFOspeedracer (Jun 25, 2019)

B - uberlyftdriver said:


> dealers are full of Sh*t
> 
> the trans fluid can be changed and will more than likely fix the problem.
> drain by dropping the belly pan
> ...


They are full of shit, 85% of the time if the fluid hasn't blackened and gritty-ed out it will be the best thing you can do

No trans dipsticks anymore on most cars for that reason



Jay Dean said:


> Great stuff


Very good info on here. Exactly what he said, you can also throw out the old "change every 3000 rule". Conventional even has improved the intervals


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## The Gift of Fish (Mar 17, 2017)

Jay Dean said:


> Has new struts
> New Engine coils
> New Oil gasket (which was causing oil to enter coil number 1
> New One (of three) mount replaced for engine, top left (called dog bone lol)
> ...


That's quite some list! Next time avoid crappy Nissault and buy Toyota. Between 222,000 miles when purchased and 329,000 miles now, apart from the usual consumables of oil and filters and tyres, the list of repairs and parts my Camry has required is:

New brake disks and pads.

.


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## Blatherskite (Nov 30, 2016)

I hope that when I'm a nonagenarian with 4 stage C, nobody decides to pull heroics on me with a heart transplant or something. Poor defenseless little cars.


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## UberLaLa (Sep 6, 2015)

At least once a year, head to quarter car wash, leave engine running with hood open and blast off the engine compartment. Keeps it looking half way presentable and helps prolong hose life. Not to mention mechanics appreciate a clean space to work on.


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## Trebor (Apr 22, 2015)

Diamondraider said:


> Maybe you can help with an Altima question (2016)
> 
> When I start the vehicle cold, I get a whiny sound that increases with rpm's
> 
> ...


It could be your alternator starting to go bad. Get a mechanics stephoscope. $3.79 or something from harbor freight


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

Trebor said:


> It could be your alternator starting to go bad. Get a mechanics stephoscope. $3.79 or something from harbor freight


Holy crap that is a thing!? Lol that's awesome and seriously $3.79, what a world!


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## Syn (Jun 30, 2017)

Jay Dean said:


> Not to alter the subject on Altima but I owned a Toyota 4-runner and the thing was absolutely amazing, basically bulletproof..would you say Toyota still holds true to that quality standard? If not Toyota what's another brand that is "Solid" in your opinion, not to take up too much of your time but since your offering advice! I'll def ask!:smiles:


My 2015 Toyota Yaris is at 130,000 miles now.
- Synthetic oil changes every 5,000 miles.
- Transmission oil change at 90,000 miles.
- New brake pads at 120,000 miles.

That's it. It was my first Toyota after 7 Fords. I'm not going back to Fords, that's for sure.

Yep, Toyota is still the king of reliability.


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## Trebor (Apr 22, 2015)

Jay Dean said:


> Holy crap that is a thing!? Lol that's awesome and seriously $3.79, what a world!


Yup and I say alternator because I thought it was my belt (and it could be your belt) squeaking but it progressively got worse over time, even after I replaced it. I got the mechanics stethoscope and bam. Not a question it was coming from the alternator. I actually started to think it was my compressor because it started squeaking especially bad when it came on but turns out, it was just putting more of a load on the alternator. That little $3 thing saved me a potential breakdown OTR.

You can DIY one out of a milk carton and screwdriver (youtube) but the actual stethoscope seemed to work better for me.


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## losiglow (Dec 4, 2018)

Nissault :roflmao:

Would that be phonetically pronounced "Niece-oh"?


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

Update on my hooptie for those that have free time to read.

Talked to my mechanic friend today that was doing some work, and first thing I asked was does it really matter if an engine is dirty or not and he said no, but he kept saying while working, you can get a pressure washer and clean here, and get a pressure washer and clean here and can use a rag here and it wont hurt nothing in these spots lol so...I think I may have gone a tad overboard by NOT cleaning lol..I still will never use simple green..just water. So Ok, and BTW I am a very clean person! Just didn't clean the engine because of my prior mishap back in the day..anyways moving forward lol.

Going to get timing chain and water pump changed at same time but waiting until October due to outside heat (my call not his, I cant ask anyone to work through this heat that long) cause its a 5-7 hour job..he basically said if we just change the water pump..the timing chain is right there so silly not to do both at once. October I will address both.

He just looked at me when I said I never changed the spark plugs at all before 188k miles. LOL


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## Amsoil Uber Connect (Jan 14, 2015)

25K regular plugs. 100k for the Platinums. 

Keep the pressure washer away from the distributor cap and the exhaust when the exhaust is hot. They have been known to crack hitting it with to much water.


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## Fozzie (Aug 11, 2018)

Jay Dean said:


> Getting some ideas in what else to do at 188k 08 Nissan Altima - If nothing else I have learned quite a bit about cars (when I really didn't have a clue) driving for U/L so there is that lol
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> ...


That's a lot of work to keep up an aging car. That's why I flip mine every 2-3 years, before they hit 100k and the repairs start to add up.


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## Amsoil Uber Connect (Jan 14, 2015)

Well if you like endless car payments. Your Banker loves you.


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## Fozzie (Aug 11, 2018)

Amsoil Uber Connect said:


> Well if you like endless car payments. Your Banker loves you.


Nonsense. I bought a 2016 Altima for $11k. Next year I'll trade it in with ~90k miles for approx $7k (KBB trade in value) and buy something in to $10-11k range. I'm now financing $3-4k on a newer vehicle, lowering my costs and avoiding major repair expenses.

You're paying one way or another. Personally, I'd prefer to trade for something newer and lower my payments. 
(This is for a 100% work vehicle, not my personal vehicle, so my expenses are deductible)


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

For my particular situation having a master mechanic friend that can work on my car and getting the parts for as cheap as I seem to be able to do, I am just going to see how far it goes. I wouldn’t say it’s fun working on it, but it sure is a learning experience. I am not certain what my next vehicle will be or if I won’t even own one all together so also giving me some time to explore options.?

My buddy had a funny quote in that “You will always have a car payment, one way or another” and for me seems to be true as once paid off the repair bills are just another continued car payment.


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## Amsoil Uber Connect (Jan 14, 2015)

Not if you buy a Honda or a Toyota.


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## Fozzie (Aug 11, 2018)

Amsoil Uber Connect said:


> Not if you buy a Honda or a Toyota.


Not if you buy a Honda or a Toyota and don't mind driving old, high mileage, beat to hell cars.


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## njn (Jan 23, 2016)

That engine bay needs a clean so you can see what you are dealing with.


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## Juggalo9er (Dec 7, 2017)

Jay Dean said:


> View attachment 334460
> 
> 
> Getting some ideas in what else to do at 188k 08 Nissan Altima - If nothing else I have learned quite a bit about cars (when I really didn't have a clue) driving for U/L so there is that lol
> ...


Engine degreaser... Probably look like new after.... Nice job btw


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## Uberdise (Mar 10, 2019)

I'm not a car expert by any means but felt the need to chime in from working on cars for the past 10 or so years, as well as staying up to date on automotive news and tech.

1. The whole "don't change your transmission fluid" is a myth. Always follow the maintenance schedule. 
It is perpetuated by people changing transmission fluid in an already failing transmission, and can't figure out why it doesn't drive any better.

2. I've noticed the quality of GM, Ford and Dodge/Chrysler/Ram has diminished since the 2009 auto bail out. I can say this from riding in, test driving, and renting a lot of them.

3. I've noticed a slight decrease in quality with Toyota. I think they are starting to coast a bit on brand reputation to bolster sales. 
I test drove a 2018 Corolla and the air vents were super flimsy. I know that is a rather small detail, but they should not be made out of the same thickness of a plastic milk jug and bend a lot when adjusting them. 
They also (for whatever messed up reason) put the cruise control on a stalk, vs on the steering wheel.

4. If your going to be idling longer than 10 seconds, shut off your engine. 10 seconds is roughly the "break even" point between the gas needed to keep it running and the gas needed to start it back up. This is why some newer cars do it for you automatically at red lights.

5. There is no need to "warm up" a modern car (mid 90s on up) in the winter. Doing so wastes a ton of gas. Just keep it in town for the 1st 10 minutes or so. 

BTW..is that 188k miles on your '08 Altima original on the CVT?


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

Now that’s summer is coming to a close I am debating doing airport runs (only) until this car takes a dump..part of me feels bad that it might crap out at any second and a pax or four might miss their flight, but that’s what the rates warrant in 2019...trying to think if it is worth it, or just drive it to job and back and extend the cars longevity of what’s left lol...brief overview of my dilemma...


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## O-Side Uber (Jul 26, 2017)

Uberdise said:


> I'm not a car expert by any means but felt the need to chime in from working on cars for the past 10 or so years, as well as staying up to date on automotive news and tech.
> 
> 1. The whole "don't change your transmission fluid" is a myth. Always follow the maintenance schedule.
> It is perpetuated by people changing transmission fluid in an already failing transmission, and can't figure out why it doesn't drive any better.
> ...


I shouldn't idle for more than 10 seconds? Wouldn't that wear out the starter and use more gas just to start?


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## Jay Dean (Apr 3, 2015)

Uberdise said:


> I'm not a car expert by any means but felt the need to chime in from working on cars for the past 10 or so years, as well as staying up to date on automotive news and tech.
> 
> 1. The whole "don't change your transmission fluid" is a myth. Always follow the maintenance schedule.
> It is perpetuated by people changing transmission fluid in an already failing transmission, and can't figure out why it doesn't drive any better.
> ...


Same original CVT now at 189,350 lol


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