# Do you guys do the manufacturer's scheduled maintenances?



## imsam (Apr 10, 2017)

Do you follow them all or do them as you feel the need?

Scheduled maintenances such as:

Brake Fluid Service at XX
Replace coolant at XX
Inspect X and Y at XX
etc


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## njn (Jan 23, 2016)

no


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## losiglow (Dec 4, 2018)

I rarely follow the scheduled maintenance. I usually do it when I feel it needs it, based on performance and observation. Often that's before the recommendation. Brake fluid for example - I do when I replace pads or rotors.


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## kingcorey321 (May 20, 2018)

retired mechanic here.
there is zero need to replace your brake fluid unless you have a sports car that has dot 4
for cooling your an uber lyft driver for get about it . your coolant will easily last 5 to 7 years 300 thousand miles or more
no need to change power steering fluids if you have it most cars are electric .
transmission fluids most cars today are no longer suggest to be changed .
reason for not changing the transmission fluid is . the fluid never goes bad yes its that good. it gets dirty normal wear and tear . again pointless in changing dirty fluid . reason is the fluid is still good . the dirt in the fluid is actualy wear and tear from the transmission .
basically changing the fluid or not the transmission will last the same amount of time . this fluid cost a lot some cars 30 bucks a quart your car takes 12 to 16 . pointless . change your oil as the owners manual says . full syntho is required all newer cars. it should be changed every 5000 to 10000 miles normal conventional oil will damage your engine even if its changed at 3000 miles i am not getting technical here always follow your owners manual on proper fluids.


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## imsam (Apr 10, 2017)

kingcorey321 said:


> retired mechanic here.
> there is zero need to replace your brake fluid unless you have a sports car that has dot 4
> for cooling your an uber lyft driver for get about it . your coolant will easily last 5 to 7 years 300 thousand miles or more
> no need to change power steering fluids if you have it most cars are electric .
> ...


You made it sound so cheap to own a car.

Last time I went to my dealership, they wanted me to spend $1800 USD to change brake pads and rotors.

I went in to have them a look why my car was making squeeky noises when braking. Apparently it was 40% ish left on each pad.

My car was 26k miles at the time.


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## ObsidianSedan (Jul 13, 2019)

I follow the manufacturer recommended maintenance schedule and I take it to a dealer where I've independently confirmed that they upload all their service records to CARFAX. I can log into myCARFAX and see my maintenance history.


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## Kodyhead (May 26, 2015)

Who is maintenance?


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## losiglow (Dec 4, 2018)

kingcorey321 said:


> transmission fluids most cars today are no longer suggest to be changed .
> reason for not changing the transmission fluid is . the fluid never goes bad yes its that good. it gets dirty normal wear and tear . again pointless in changing dirty fluid . reason is the fluid is still good . the dirt in the fluid is actualy wear and tear from the transmission .
> basically changing the fluid or not the transmission will last the same amount of time . this fluid cost a lot some cars 30 bucks a quart your car takes 12 to 16 . pointless .


I respect mechanics opinions. They know better than us DIYers. But I've got to disagree on transmission fluids. I believe that lifetime fluid is ridiculous. From a chemistry standpoint, transmission fluid isn't much more than thinner oil with different additives. Oil molecules break down over time due to heat and shearing as well as the additives.

Different cars require different fluids but for run of the mill Honda and Acura traditional auto's, The standard Honda DW-1 is relatively cheap. I get a 12 qt. case from our local Honda dealer for $72. Most of the time it runs $10 a qt but that's still not too bad. And Valvoline Maxlife is a perfectly decent alternative that runs a whopping $18 for a 1 gallon jug. As you know, traditional auto's with a torque converter usually only drain about 1/3rd of the fluid. In my case, that's just shy of 4qts. I change it with every other oil change - so about once every 15K miles or so. As you probably also know, Honda/Acura doesn't have the best rap when it comes to transmissions. At least not for the reputation for reliability that's expected.

I've got 210K miles on my TL and plan on keeping it until the wheels fall off. The transmission runs as smooth as the day I bought it at 58K. I'll continue to fork out the $18 every 15K miles.

Also, should mention, on the Honda and Acura forums, 4/5 times someone has a transmission problem such as hard shifting, tach hunting or hesitation, a simple drain and refill solves their problem. In some cases, a 3 x 3 drain is necessarily but ends up solving problems at least 80% of the time. Considering a transmission replacement is as much as an engine replacement, I don't understand why people don't take better care of them.


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## welikecamping (Nov 27, 2018)

Yes, my car is still under warranty and I want it to have _some_ resale value when I'm done with it.


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## TomTheAnt (Jan 1, 2019)

No, I do my own stuff in my own schedule. I note all repairs and services in the manual and save receipts in a folder which I hand over to the buyer when I sell them.

Also, I do not buy new vehicles, so the whole dealer maintenance need is out the window, anyway. Not that you'd have to do it even if you bought a new vehicle. Most of the recommended schedules are just fluff, anyway, to get people bring their vehicles in so they could find something else to charge them for. 



losiglow said:


> I believe that lifetime fluid is ridiculous.


Fully agree! Even if it costs me a couple of bucks, I'm still changing them. Not a biggie.


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## welikecamping (Nov 27, 2018)

That's a very good point - right now, I only get the free stuff from the dealer. If I need real mechanical work, I have my own preferred shop - people that don't recommend stuff I don't need. I also run any advice I get from the dealership by Tom and Ray, just in case.


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## kingcorey321 (May 20, 2018)

again look at your owners manual always follow it as it says.
you will notice most new cars today there is zero listing for transmission fluids to be changed . the reason i posted above .
if you want to risk changing this fluid at some quick lube that says they can do it then go for it . it could murder the transmission
my advice is if you want to change the fluid i strongly suggest going into your local transmission shops where all they do is transmissions ask there advice . your local mechanic might or might not know the correct answer .
so you know a lot of transmissions can not be rebuilt there only replaced . tech has changed in cars just like your 5 or 10 speed transmission . i have changed transmission in cars for many years will say 1 a week average. i have an idea what im talking about here.
if your fluid is changed 10 times in 300000 miles or never it will last just as long . 
fluid will get dirty from mostly clutch materials . once they wear out its done.
to stop this debate i will put this this answer is subjective to change transmission fluids or not. for the honda posted above its likely the clutch material was clogging the filter so changing the fluid on these could make them last a few hundred miles more. then the honda will slip burn up. again worn out parts . but the fluid are clean lol . 
most transmissions that were replaced the fluids are just burnt from worn parts or electronic problems . the fluids inside was burnt from over heating . not from dirt.

stay safe never pick up drunks with out a surge .


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## losiglow (Dec 4, 2018)

Well, I don't change it at a quick lube place. I do it myself. Honda's are just a drain/refill - never a flush. As easy as changing oil. We'll agree to disagree.


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## imsam (Apr 10, 2017)

Thanks for the replies, guys.


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## O-Side Uber (Jul 26, 2017)

I’m going to continue getting scheduled maintenance for the first 100,000 miles. I want to be sure the dealership covers any repairs during that period. Missing services may cause a problem with that. I have been telling them to put standard conventional oil in. I go in for a change every 4 to 5k miles. Are you guys all using synthetic ? I have a 2018 Nissan.


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Kodyhead said:


> Who is maintenance?


The fairy who leaves frozen crank bearings and leaking piston rings if you do not sacrifice oil to her alter.

You try running a couple quarts low !
Or with clogged filters (" kidneys,.)
Not so nice eh ?



O-Side Uber said:


> I'm going to continue getting scheduled maintenance for the first 100,000 miles. I want to be sure the dealership covers any repairs during that period. Missing services may cause a problem with that. I have been telling them to put standard conventional oil in. I go in for a change every 4 to 5k miles. Are you guys all using synthetic ? I have a 2018 Nissan.


Synthetic synthetic synthetic.

Uber is heavy duty useage which Probably voids your warranty anyway.

Synthetics have higher molecular conformity and greater heat tolerance.
( no parafins and less carbon)
( no exposure pre use to hydrates or chlorides like Dino oil)

The BEST " natural oil
Is no match for Wal Mart synthetic.

Most cars Dont run 12 hours a day
Every day.


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## O-Side Uber (Jul 26, 2017)

tohunt4me said:


> The fairy who leaves frozen crank bearings and leaking piston rings if you do not sacrigice oil to her alter.
> 
> You try running a couple quarts low !
> Or with clogged filters (" kidneys,.)
> ...


I drive 5 hours per day. That's all I can handle at my age. 3 hours in the morning and 2 hours in the afternoon. I'll take your advice and switch to synthetic


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## oldfart (Dec 22, 2017)

imsam said:


> Do you follow them all or do them as you feel the need?
> 
> Scheduled maintenances such as:
> 
> ...


Yes


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

Use Synthetic
Change at natural oil recomended intervals.

No excuse NOT to get at Least 200,000 miles out of modern engines.


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## SurginGeneral (Aug 9, 2017)

Just want to chime in and drop:

There’s no such thing as “lifetime” fluid.

That’s just a load of BS meant to cause an owner to replace a whole part that contained said “lifetime” fluid.

Just replace as recommended by independent owners / mechanics. Brake, power steering, coolant, transmission, differentials, etc. 

Example: Ford claims it’s power transfer units have “lifetime” fluid (unit that sends power to rear wheels on AWD vehicles). That’s a load of BS and should be changed every 50k if not sooner (Ford PTUs on the Edge especially are known to fail early).


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## mbd (Aug 27, 2018)

car burns little oil, I make sure to top it , every day. I can let it go down to low then put some, but seems like when I top it off everyday , it burns little less vs waiting few days .
Cheapest synthetic Walmart brand when adding oil
Every 7500 oil change and rotation/balance
Transmission drain- not a full flush on old cars
If you do city miles, then you have to be little extra cautious
Highway miles- like mine-miles are way gentler on your car,reducing engine wear, transmission wear,brakes, shocks, etc etc


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## NOXDriver (Aug 12, 2018)

kingcorey321 said:


> retired mechanic here.
> there is zero need to replace your brake fluid unless you have a sports car that has dot 4


You're a bad mechanic. Brake fluid is hydrophobic and WILL rust steel lines. Unless you run stainless lines.

Also the heat of breaking WILL deteriorate the fluid.

If you ever do change the fluid you'll notice that its dark brown... that's rust and the fluid breaking down.

Good thing you're no longer in the biz... you're not that good at it.

Unless you're running DOT 5 (silicone) you need to change it.


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## TomTheAnt (Jan 1, 2019)

tohunt4me said:


> The fairy who leaves frozen crank bearings and leaking piston rings if you do not sacrifice oil to her alter.


Not to mention blinker fluid leaking all over the place...


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## tohunt4me (Nov 23, 2015)

TomTheAnt said:


> Not to mention blinker fluid leaking all over the place...


i inflate mine to 50 p.s.i.


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## kingcorey321 (May 20, 2018)

NOXDriver said:


> You're a bad mechanic. Brake fluid is hydrophobic and WILL rust steel lines. Unless you run stainless lines.
> 
> Also the heat of breaking WILL deteriorate the fluid.
> 
> ...


you are totally wrong . dot 5 needs to be changed very often made for race cars . how many brake lines have you changed in your life ?
brake lines rust in states that use salt on the roads in cali florda they are not changing brake lines. so you know if you cut a brake line off a car replacing it look inside of it there is zero rust . it rusts from the outside in. 
bad mechanic if you say so i never wasted customers money spending hard earned cash on items they will not need .
brake flushes are not done in the real world only in dealerships. dealerships will sell you a oil change flush bunch of wasted cash on flushing induction systems . scams in the real world .


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## TomTheAnt (Jan 1, 2019)

Oh boy... Brake fluid change, pretty much second to only “which oil is best?” on the list of best arguments on teh interwebs. :roflmao: Right there along with whether you should change ****** fluid or not due to the “lifetime fluid” argument.


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## KK2929 (Feb 9, 2017)

Yes, taught by my father. I keep up with the warranties and the 3,000 mile service. My cars usually last into the 250,000 + miles on the original motor. However, I never use a dealership for service. I have a trusted mechanic that is fair and reasonable.


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## Amsoil Uber Connect (Jan 14, 2015)

losiglow said:


> I respect mechanics opinions. They know better than us DIYers. But I've got to disagree on transmission fluids. I believe that lifetime fluid is ridiculous. From a chemistry standpoint, transmission fluid isn't much more than thinner oil with different additives. Oil molecules break down over time due to heat and shearing as well as the additives.


Being an Amsoil dealer / Mechanic. I agree with this. ^^^

I read a report a few years ago that stated that fresh ATF BEARLY mets the min requirement for OEM specs. So after about 5-10k it's done. Yet owner manuals say 30k. Being that I can go 90k on Amsoil I change it at 60k.

And some vehicles you can disconnect the pressure line going to the radiator to flush the converter too. Look for a how to video on line. My Silverado is so easy.

I have since added there By-Pass filter to the engine so 25k + is no worries anymore. Sitting @ 227k now.


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## EngineerAtHeart (Nov 8, 2018)

Yes always follow maintenance schedule. Keep a record of everything and you'll probably get more money for it when you sell.


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## TPAMB (Feb 13, 2019)

Synthetic Oil 10K
Plugs and Transmission Fluid/Filter 50K
Engine Air Filters 20K
Cabin Filters 10K
Brake Fluid 20K or every 2 years
Rotate and balance 5K
Alignment 10K
Wiper Blades 10K or every year
Coolant Flush 150K
Differential Fluid 150K


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## SFOspeedracer (Jun 25, 2019)

TomTheAnt said:


> Oh boy... Brake fluid change, pretty much second to only "which oil is best?" on the list of best arguments on teh interwebs. :roflmao: Right there along with whether you should change @@@@@@ fluid or not due to the "lifetime fluid" argument.


Ha .. I always laugh reading the lifetime fluid argument .. "lifetime" = 150-200k for most, people look to update their vehicle or one of the big metals in the car simply goes out around that mileage if you listen to that lifetime bs .. nothing lasts forever, which is why not changing these "lifetime" fluids warrant overheating (the #1 reason transmissions give out)


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## MyJessicaLS430 (May 29, 2018)

imsam said:


> Do you follow them all or do them as you feel the need?
> 
> Scheduled maintenances such as:
> 
> ...


I may not speak for others but this is my experience as a Lexus owner

Most scheduled maintenance only involves oil changes, some top ups and tyre rotation.

The most $$$ maintenance was the 90K service. It was a $ 2300 job for timing belt and water pump replacement. Newer Lexus vehicles are equipped with timing chain, which is not expected to fail and hence replacement is not necessary.

I have only had 1 time of brake fluid exchange service done for $200. The braking system is like revived after the service.

Transmission fluid is recommended to be replaced at 150k miles for most Lexus models (which literally means lifetime). My car is still far from that .


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## OldBay (Apr 1, 2019)

Reasons to keep up with scheduled maintenance:

*Warranty coverage
*Resale value (buyer wants to see car was maintained)

Fluid changes are generally cheap and easy and can be done DIY in most cases. So if you are DIY inclined, then yes, do them for above reasons.

So the question is, someone who is not mechanically inclined, should they save money by skipping maintenance items? They don't have enough knowledge to make the right judgement calls (which can be skipped and which are mandatory). So I would say, no.


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## losiglow (Dec 4, 2018)

I think with "lifetime" fluids, the lifetime is referring to the warranty. The fluid will last the "lifetime" of the warranty after which you're stuck with the repair bill when the transmission tanks. :x3:


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## Coastal_Cruiser (Oct 1, 2018)

Must respect when a journeyman mechanic that has an opinion based upon direct experience (btw, with legs like that what kind of reaction did you get when you were working under the car on a dolly?

Anyway, I became convinced that one should change the brake fluid on the basis it absorbs moisture over time, and loses some of its "compressibility". When I bleed the brakes on my car I always bleed until that awful looking dark fluid exits each wheel cylinder / caliper and the pleasant looking fresh clear fluid comes out. Whatever.

On trannys, all I know is I became convinced, from videos, to never ever FLUSH a ******. That is what the oil change guys love to charge an arm and leg for. But all it seems to do is loosen up all the crap being retained in the nooks and crannies, and let's it loose in the wild of the gears. No thank you.

And, I have posted this link in another thread, but based on direct experience for insuring logetivity of motor and ****** I would never own a car without adding this additive.


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## Coastal_Cruiser (Oct 1, 2018)

Coastal_Cruiser said:


> Anyway, I became convinced that one should change the brake fluid on the basis it absorbs moisture over time, and loses some of its "compressibility".


I phrased that wrong. The understanding is that moisture in the brake lines makes the fluid more compressible. The idea behind hydraulic fluid is that it does *not* compress. ;>


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## 2kwik4u (Aug 27, 2019)

Coastal_Cruiser said:


> I phrased that wrong. The understanding is that moisture in the brake lines makes the fluid more compressible. The idea behind hydraulic fluid is that it does *not* compress. ;>


Was going to say this.

Secondarily, the reason water in brake fluid is bad is boiling. Brake fluid handles heat significantly better than water. Once fluid boils it becomes vapor and IS compressible, which leads to brake system failure.

Clean and dry brake fluid is happy fluid. It's inexpensive to bleed on your own. I change the fluid when I change the pads.


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## Syn (Jun 30, 2017)

losiglow said:


> I respect mechanics opinions. They know better than us DIYers. But I've got to disagree on transmission fluids. I believe that lifetime fluid is ridiculous. From a chemistry standpoint, transmission fluid isn't much more than thinner oil with different additives. Oil molecules break down over time due to heat and shearing as well as the additives.
> 
> Different cars require different fluids but for run of the mill Honda and Acura traditional auto's, The standard Honda DW-1 is relatively cheap. I get a 12 qt. case from our local Honda dealer for $72. Most of the time it runs $10 a qt but that's still not too bad. And Valvoline Maxlife is a perfectly decent alternative that runs a whopping $18 for a 1 gallon jug. As you know, traditional auto's with a torque converter usually only drain about 1/3rd of the fluid. In my case, that's just shy of 4qts. I change it with every other oil change - so about once every 15K miles or so. As you probably also know, Honda/Acura doesn't have the best rap when it comes to transmissions. At least not for the reputation for reliability that's expected.
> 
> ...


Just out of my curiosity, why would you own a car that requires so much maintenance? My Toyota has almost 130,000 miles and I changed transmission oil only once (at approximately 90,000 miles). Still shifts just like it did when I bought it brand new. Replaced pads once at 110,000 miles. That's all maintenance that I did other than oil changes every 5,000-7,000 miles. 
Is there a reason why instead of Acura TL you didn't buy a Lexus ES and save yourself all that trouble with maintenance?


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## UberLuxbod (Sep 2, 2014)

kingcorey321 said:


> retired mechanic here.
> there is zero need to replace your brake fluid unless you have a sports car that has dot 4
> for cooling your an uber lyft driver for get about it . your coolant will easily last 5 to 7 years 300 thousand miles or more
> no need to change power steering fluids if you have it most cars are electric .
> ...


300k miles on coolant?

You actually think transmission fluid is "for life"

Conventional oil will damage your engine?

Full Synth only?

Probably just as well you are retired.



NOXDriver said:


> You're a bad mechanic. Brake fluid is hydrophobic and WILL rust steel lines. Unless you run stainless lines.
> 
> Also the heat of breaking WILL deteriorate the fluid.
> 
> ...


Wrong..

Brake Fluid ia Hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs 
moisture.

Hydrophobic means it repels water.


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## Ssgcraig (Jul 8, 2015)

welikecamping said:


> Yes, my car is still under warranty and I want it to have _some_ resale value when I'm done with it.


As an Uber driver? LOL


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## kingcorey321 (May 20, 2018)

UberLuxbod said:


> 300k miles on coolant?
> 
> You actually think transmission fluid is "for life"
> 
> ...


mod i suggest you keep doing the job you know how to do . that is mod this website.
i suggest you never give automotive advice to anybody.
here is a quick article about engine oil. for the other items you disagree with me about its perfectly fine its your incorrect opinion.
i will give a few key words of the engine oil debate. SLUDGE PROTECTION WARRANTY VOIDED if syntho oil is not used . there is a reason for this .
https://www.carlotz.com/blog/regular-vs-synthetic-oil-which-is-right-for-your-car/


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## Juggalo9er (Dec 7, 2017)

imsam said:


> Do you follow them all or do them as you feel the need?
> 
> Scheduled maintenances such as:
> 
> ...


Brake fluid service...huh


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## UberLuxbod (Sep 2, 2014)

kingcorey321 said:


> mod i suggest you keep doing the job you know how to do . that is mod this website.
> i suggest you never give automotive advice to anybody.
> here is a quick article about engine oil. for the other items you disagree with me about its perfectly fine its your incorrect opinion.
> i will give a few key words of the engine oil debate. SLUDGE PROTECTION WARRANTY VOIDED if syntho oil is not used . there is a reason for this .
> https://www.carlotz.com/blog/regular-vs-synthetic-oil-which-is-right-for-your-car/


Mmmm

Troll 101

When challenged over rubbish you have posted go on the attack.

Even better if that person is a Mod comment about that.

A retired mechanic that uses silly onlines videos to "prove" a point.

Lol

Does that work over at BITOG?

Semi Synth or Fully Synth makes little difference.

Oil specification does.


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## Uber_Yota_916 (May 1, 2017)

For a personal car following the manufacture recommendation works just fine. 

Ride share is a different beast. Most manuals have another set of recommendations for extreme conditions. I would follow those. 

I’ve switched to synthetic oil, transmission fluid changes at 30k and filter every 60k. Heavier duty breaks up front and lifetime drums from Midas in the back. Not to mention all the suspension work. Piece by piece I will have a new front end with 250k miles on a 05 corolla lol.


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## losiglow (Dec 4, 2018)

Syn said:


> Just out of my curiosity, why would you own a car that requires so much maintenance? My Toyota has almost 130,000 miles and I changed transmission oil only once (at approximately 90,000 miles). Still shifts just like it did when I bought it brand new. Replaced pads once at 110,000 miles. That's all maintenance that I did other than oil changes every 5,000-7,000 miles.
> Is there a reason why instead of Acura TL you didn't buy a Lexus ES and save yourself all that trouble with maintenance?


It doesn't require the maintenance - I just do it to hopefully prolong the life of the car. The recommended maintenance on the transmission fluid is 60K miles. Recommended oil change is at 7500 miles, which I largely stick to. Sometimes I'll change it around 6K miles or so. That's about it on maintenance. I've done the brakes twice but that's after having owned it for 180K miles (since I bought it used) so that's not too bad.

And the Lexus ES is boring. Lexus in general is somewhat boring. Granted, I'm still considering a GS hybrid as my next vehicle but it's only because it's got some aftermarket support that will give it a bit more spunk as far as performance and suspension goes. And it gets better mileage :thumbup: But if I can find a good Acura RLX Sport-Hybrid, I'll go that route. AWD, 380hp and stiff suspension. Much more fun that any Lexus short of an IS-F or GS-F (or some of the coupes which aren't an option...)


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## kingcorey321 (May 20, 2018)

you can just keep thinking conventional oil may be used in every car . think about it . cars use 0w20 5w20 today ,
years ago 10w30 later 5 w30 conventional . . reason for the thinner oil is fuel savings you wont understand that over head valves . variable valve timing different engine setups . .
the thinner the oil the higher the quality it needs to be to protect your engine . also synth oil has many cleaning properties .
if you want to kill your engine that is perfectly fine shorten your cars life . i will end the stupidity debate . always follow your owners manual suggestions on motor oil. look further then the engine weight . please read the owners manual before putting in the incorrect oil like your mod is telling you .
again if this website does not help there is something wrong . 
https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/car-technology/a53/what-oil-does-my-car-take/walmart sells 5 quarts of full synthetic oil for 16 bucks plus tax . why by the incorrect oil for a higher price ? brand called super teck 
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Full-Synthetic-SAE-0W-20-Motor-Oil-5-Quarts/254038905


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## losiglow (Dec 4, 2018)

kingcorey321 said:


> you can just keep thinking conventional oil may be used in every car . think about it . cars use 0w20 5w20 today ,
> years ago 10w30 later 5 w30 conventional . . reason for the thinner oil is fuel savings you wont understand that over head valves . variable valve timing different engine setups . .
> the thinner the oil the higher the quality it needs to be to protect your engine . also synth oil has many cleaning properties .
> if you want to kill your engine that is perfectly fine shorten your cars life . i will end the stupidity debate . always follow your owners manual suggestions on motor oil. look further then the engine weight . please read the owners manual before putting in the incorrect oil like your mod is telling you .
> ...


I wasn't following this part of the thread but this guy is 100% correct. There are many reasons - heavier oils taking longer to get to vital parts during cold startup, heavier oils causing more heat due to increased friction and shearing, oil passages and components that rely on oil pressure for operation designed for the lighter oils, the list goes on. Go to bobistheoilguy.com and every expert on there will be recommending you follow the manufacturers recommendation on oil weight.

I've used 0W-20 for 215K miles now and don't burn a drop of oil in between changes. Heavier oil may quiet down lifters or valves due to the increased viscosity and "cushion" but it's not going to protect any better and has far more disadvantages when it comes to other things.


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## amazinghl (Oct 31, 2018)

My girlfriend and I been dating for a couple of months, she has a 2004 Honda Civic with 129xxx miles. She said she's was going to take it to oil change, I said I'd do it for her for the cost of parts. It turned out she bought the car 6000 miles ago with zero history or maintenance record.

I used Mobil1 5w-20 and Mobil1 filter, came out to a little less than $42.

I noticed 3 of the tires are from 2013, dry rotted, cracks all over and they felt like hard plastic instead of rubber. 1 tire is from 2018. There is a date code on every tire sold in US, 4 digits after the word DOT. First two number is the number of week in the year when the tire was made and last two is the year. All 4 tires were at 20psi instead of 30psi recommended by Honda. I aired up the tires and informed her about the tires. To her credit, she got them changed the next day.

Previous owner left her with zero maintenance record and her birthday was coming up in a week, I thought I'd change the timing belt and associated parts as her birthday gift. Timing belt interval was every 110k and when someone is going to sell the car at 123xxx, you can bet none of the 110k schedule maintenance was done. The belt/waterpump looks original and I'm glad I changed them because when a belt breaks, engine/cylinder head is usually toasted.

I did:
Front crank seal
Cam seal
Timing belt
Timing belt tensioner
Timing belt tensioner spring
Waterpump
Spark plugs
Air filter
Coolant change
P/S steering belt
Alternator belt
Valve cover gasket

While changing the above parts, I found
Both alternator belt and p/s belt have cracks (see below pic)
Both side of the front control arm rubber are almost detached from the metal, when that rubber is gone, the chance of losing control of her vehicle would be very high (see below pic)
Power steering pump leaks which drips fluid onto the control arm
Power steering fluid was yellow, Honda Power steering fluid should be clear (Honda/Acura are picky on their power steering fluid)
Radiator area had steam coming out when car was running, which turns out the radiator had a bunch of tiny cracks
Rear struts are wet, which mean they leak
Hood rod retainer is broken and the chance of the hood rod come into contact of the battery's 12v terminal is very high.

I bought a new power steering pump and installed it and I still need to do:
Hood rod retainer
Brake Fluid
ATF
Change front control arms
Inspect the rear suspension parts
Radiator/cap

So, yes, you bet I do the most of the recommended schedules maintenance items. I change my own oil and inspect everything else while I'm there. I also keep a spreadsheet of what I changed, what I see, and what the vehicle needs.

I'm very happy I found the condition of the control arm before the rubber completely separated.


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## TPAMB (Feb 13, 2019)

Like clockwork. It’s a major investment, how I make money and I do all of my maintenance myself. Why wouldn’t one follow recommended maintenance schedules?


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## amazinghl (Oct 31, 2018)

TPAMB said:


> Why wouldn't one follow recommended maintenance schedules?


To be penny wise and pound foolish.


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## Atavar (Aug 11, 2018)

The big exception to the tyranny fluid interval is if you have a CVT transmission or a Honda. Both are very sensitive to dirty fluid and not changing it can get expensive.


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